Accelerating:
Ironically enough, flogging mine gets the best mileage when accelerating. Gasoline engines are load bearing beasts; more efficient when working within their specific load ranges. Buy a car that gets decent mpg. A SRT-8 isn't going to cut it Eh anything is possible. I'd like to submit my rolling brick as an example. 4)Minimize engine accessory use. This could vary greatly depending on your engine and accessory setup. For my 4.0 the only thing that consumes extra gas is my A/C compressor. The alternator and PS under full usage doesn't phase it. Run the lightest weight synthetic oil you can get away with. Varies again on engine, running too light or too slippery of an oil can cause excessive wear on internals. Mobile1 is known via oil analysis to consume 4.0 blocks due to its inability to adhere to parts. (Automatic transmissions) Dropping into N from 75+mph has yet to blow up any of my familys autos....So long as the input shaft is spinning usually the oil pump is also going. Most automatic equipped cars have a tranny cooler built into the radiator or have an external cooler located elsewhere (01 Town and Country). Unless your cooling fan has been knocked offline somehow and your cooling system as a whole has been heating up, your tranny isn't going to die anytime soon. If you tow, then death is a possibility. Drafting. One doesn't have to ride on the trucker's rear end, anywhere from 2-3 seconds behind will usually net benefits. Or if you have a CB let the driver know you are there and what you are doing so that during an emergency s/he is aware of your existence. E-Fan I did that, noticed no change in MPG, little peppier down low but thats about it. Regearing Rear gearing is quite expensive, going from $500-$1000 a diff. Going as far as 3.73 to 3.07s or even 2.73s will make for one gutless ride. Going from 3.07s to 3.73s will up your acceleration but I doubt much of a MPG change. How will regearing save your tranny? I can see saving the clutch, maybe. Weight reduction that requires commitment Lots of $$$$. Viable yes, but not very practical IMO. Works for a track rig or a buggy but on the road? Probably a bad idea. And a new aluminum block runs for quite the pretty penny. 1) Spoilers as an aerodynamic mod.....this ADDS weight and ADDS drag. REMOVE spoilers to increase MPG not add them....duh... If your aero is crap, it could help 2) Solar cells for your battery, this will not decrease alternator load by any reasonable amount and is generally a retarded idea. The costs GREATLY outweighs the savings if there are any at all because of the weight you added and the cost of this mod. Genuinely horrible idea. Solar cells aren't that heavy. Plus when you are at work/school whats your rig doing anyway? Sitting out in the open under the sun, might as well peak out the battery so the alternator doesn't have to. 3) Get rid of your alternator completely and charge your battery. Horrible idea again. Not going to explain it, wouldn't work, blah blah blah. Parents had a '76 Cadillac DeVille with a fried alternator and a 5.0l big block, the thing was good for about 2-3 20 mile trips before the battery would finally crap out. For toll roads why do I want to spend an extra $20 bucks a month? Thats about half a tank or so right now. Welcome to GS! :D |
This is just too funny.
"I'm new to your group, and it's a piece of junk" You have all been very sweet to him. What a great place. |
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[QUOTE=Spinningmarkviii;50303]1) Drive less aggressively, and just plain drive less. Keep RPMs down when accelerating, acceleration is where most of your gas is used. If you maintain a constant speed and accelerate tot hat speed at a slower rate your mpg will improve in a direct proportion to how much your driving style improves.{/QUOTE] See above. Faster acceleration is more efficient than slower accleration, if done correctly. [QUOTE=Spinningmarkviii;50303]3) Buy a car that gets decent mpg. Guess what? Your Chrysler 300C SRT-8 isn't ever gonna get 30mpg around town. Or 20. Buy something that will.{/QUOTE] Most members here get 70-130% of the EPA, even in town. So, unless that Chrysler has less than 16mpg about town (EPA), then it will be getting 30 or more mpg around town. Quote:
[QUOTE=Spinningmarkviii;50303]11) Drafting. No explanation needed here, but maybe your life isn't worth the extra 2-3 mpg? Again cost and benefits, if you are a bastard with no children and the world doesn't need you, draft all the semis you want.{/QUOTE] I get 7-8mpg more drafting; I guess the faster the semi goes, the more gains you can get, but also the more dangerous it is. Here in the UK 'semis' go at 56mph by law (all electronically limited to 53mph in reality). Real 'hardocore' fuel savers do D-FAS (drafting with the engine off). This is seriously cool and everyone should do it :D :D :D Quote:
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The second good point is this keeps the battery topped up (especially when engine-off-coasting), meaning less drag on the alternator when driving about. Quote:
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------------------------------------------- Another controversial idea would be... 'Weight reduction is not always good. If you do a lot of driving in hilly country, with low traffic levels, slightly more weight will mean you can put more energy into your car, with the engine at the most efficient power setting, and then coast for longer with the engine off'. I did severe weight reduction (rear tyre, carpets, all seats except drivers, all plastic from boot etc). My best economy has actually happened since I put all the stuff back! |
I don't think your group is a piece of junk, just that sticky is a piece of junk. The other one is great. Also I said weight the cost and benefits to make a logical solution for your situation several times throughout. I am not sure how you could not have seen an emphasis on this.
You people are ridiculous attempting to pick apart everything I have just said. Many of the things you are assuming are just wrong or you pick apart them even though you don't know the answer yourself. Mine is for the masses, so you counter with an example that most people aren't going to do. Like have a CB radio. Really, how many people here, even on a gas saving website, have CB radios for this purpose? RED: Quote:
Regearing: Lower ratios (higher numerically) puts less load on the trans. Don't believe me? Fine, learn a little about cars. AT Shutoff: It does cut fluid to the drum. 20,000 miles is a joke of reliability testing. I have personally seen race built transmissions grenade from doing this after a pass. They did it enough times and it just let go. It will simply take much longer with yours. Battery instead of Alt:You're honestly arguing with me that its worth not having an alternator so you can make 2-3 20 mile trips?! How many people drive 5 miles to work each day without the radio or A/C on? What percentage of the population would be better served by this. Weight Reduction:I am building a 1997 Mercury Tracer with a 3.0 Duratec whose goal is 30mpg capable and 13.99 at the track. That serious weight reduction is going to be a lot more viable solution. I thought it was understood in "requires commitment" that doing this is gonna suck ***. Solar Cells: Really so you've measures how drained the battery is when your car shuts off right? You have some experiment to back this up? (Hint: My sense of self assuredness on this point is the result knowing and being able to defend my points here.) Thisisntjared: LMAO I will try to keep my e-smug down to a less llama like level. Snax: I don't care if you stick it in a giant rubber condom an SRT-8 is going to need to ditch the 3.55s it has, and well as lean out quite a bit in the A/F to achieve even a decent cruising mileage. Aerodynamic mods aren't gonna cut it. Who is talking about oversize injectors? Most cars have injectors that are far from oversize and who are designed for fuel economy and longevity. If you agree that the majority of something is true, consider that may be the point of the whole argument. For it to be true for the majority. Fourthbean: "The consensus I have found is that electric windows are lighter than manual, I cannot find a definitive source on this but it makes sense in my mind." The logic of the other thread is full of stuff like this. Also many of the second list of points were points not only on gas mileage but for cars interested in racing as well. If you do not like my info, you don't have to use it. I was just posting it for the general good of people here. I have taken the ideas I want to take such as air dam blocking and wheel well covers and will try them. I think with the car I am building they will greatly benefit it. During those long drives to the beach. Thanks guys. |
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https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=65025.0
Call a well known high performance automatic builder see what they say. Most people do not know this. L |
You're talking about racing transmissions that are only designed to operate for a few high demand seconds at a time in a high power engine running at 140 mph, not a little old Honda slushbox at 55 mph. Many of us on this site have been doing this for long enough to know that it isn't nearly as bad as you claim. Did I mention that my car has about 130k miles on it and still has its original tranny? It's an older automatic. Most that I've seen don't last this long. The fact that I'm doing this and it hasn't died on me or shifted harder is a testament to the reliability of it.
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I'm going with repete86 on this one. There's a member on these boards who has called up Toyota and asked if coasting in N was o.k. wrt transmission fluid pressure and supposedly they said NP. I've been doing it for ~10k miles on a car w/ ~170k miles, so only time will tell I suppose. There's also a huge difference between the KE of a ~12lb drum on a th400 after a 100+mph pass and the smaller (?) drum on a fwd import at ~60mph. There could also be difference in the hydraulic/oiling system that make th400s especially prone to lube issues when put into N at high speeds. I'll see if I can hit up Toyota about this. So far, knock on wood, no one on this board has had any trouble.
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With due respect for the aim of (and most of the points in) your original post, and the discussion it generated, your forum etiquette kind of bites, on first impression. |
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