Better start saving now 17 years is 'barely' enough time !
The kitcar method is right here about 10 threads down , either '1st big test' thread or 'my videos' . He did a pretty good demo using a propane torch and a workmate .
A g2g might be a pretty neat deal .

Make a plug that you can insert into the grill area and remove if necessary or even louvers because that one time you need extra cooling will cause the engine to overheat and cause permanent damage will make it all NOT worth while. Higher temps is NOT good for a lot of engines these days - don't know why but my brother who works on a lot of engines from high end sports cars to motor cycles and turbines in jet aircraft said so and also Miro from Synlube.

This is my grill block.
 

I used thin aluminum sheet for my grill block. I only wonder if its enough air flow.

Attachment 500

Only time and a heatwave will tell. Do you have a temp. gauge or idiot light? If a light put in a gauge, great job looks good you are all great for insperation.

As to the mention of aircraft monokote, have you used it or is it just a great idea?

I see you also have the corner/fog lamps blocked . Is the lower grill open ? Is there one ? If the lower is still open ,there should be ample airflow .

That should be good for winter but the summer will require some more cooling.

Monocoat is available with a thin layer of thermal glue on one side that allows you to iron it onto a surface and have it stick and then heat it the rest that is loose and have it shrink as tight as a drum. The stuff is really strong too.

The orginal front looks just like the picture shows
https://www.gassavers.org/attachment....1&d=1180304994

I've blocked about I'd say 70%.

If you've also blocked 70% of the lower grill , I'd really stress a temperature gauge at the bare minimum .

I have not personally used it but I do have a friend that put together an R/C Airplane and crashed it on its maiden flight... the wood skeleton of the wing failed from impact but the monokote held up and didn't tear. It's cool stuff.

I've gone to auto parts stores a number of times to get spray paint, and a custum mixed can of metal flake paint stuffed in to a spray can was around $12, and after giving a base coat of white it matches almost perfectly, finish it with a quick spray of clear coat and no one will be able to tell that the part wasn't factory.