So...am I doing this right?
 

I tried my first key-off, coast, bump-start today. I was driving about 50mph, saw a light up ahead go red, turned it off and coasted/braked until about 20mph when I threw it in 5th and tried to let out slowly (but felt like I dumped) the clutch, causing the car to jerk and start, then put it immediately into neutral as I stopped.

Did I use the right gear? Do it at the right speed? In the right way? Also, should I coast in-gear when the engine is off to a complete stop instead of braking? Does this cause any serious wear that engine-on engine-braking wouldn't?

Thanks!
Dan

At that speed, you might want to start at 3rd or lower. The engine needs to speed up fast enough to start on its own, and in 5th gear, your car will probably be below it's normal idle speed.

Yes that sounds about right to me (I don't know the gearing on your car, you may have been going too slow for 5th gear). With practice you will be able to bumpstart so smooth you will have to look at the tach to make sure the engine is running :)

press clutch or put car in neutral
turn key to off position
turn key to on position
Coast
Select gear
lift foot off clutch
drive

20mph is still drivable in 3rd, so do I want to generally use the same gear to bump-start that I would continue in at a given speed? Was the jerk I felt because I used the wrong gear or is that inevitable?

I'd say you're on to something. Use the lowest gear you would drive with to bump.

Regarding bump starts... um, what about power braking and steering?

You lose steering and you have a backup for breaking, you should test both out on a deserted road before doing it in traffic, :)

around 20mph 1st is to low, 2-3rd should be good, 4-5 to high. if you put it in 5th at 20 it will run lower than idle speed 500-800rpm. its probably right in the middle of run/stall (its like holding the brake while letting the clutch all the way up- to much load and it stalls/bucks). And please be carefully to not lock your steering when turning key off/on.

I tried it in my sloped driveway a few weeks back and nearly drove my car off the mountainside. I was going 5 mph.

So as you can tell, I'm rather opposed to bump starting... lol.

I like to use a gear higher than what I will be driving in. Of course I have only 3 choices so my experience will likely be much different than yours.

90% of the time I will bump start in third gear. I have a manual clutch (no hydraulics) so it is very easy to tell when the clutch starts to engage. What I do is quickly let the clutch out just enough for the engine to start and then re-engage to drive. I think that is the most un obtrusive way in my car. If done right I don't have any jerking.

I agree, once you get your engine started again you should be in the gear that you want to be in for driving at that speed, this should alow for a compleatly smooth bump start like stated.
the last vehicle that I drove that had power steering was a full size truck, and I had the engine die on me a few months back with it while going thru town, it was one of the scarriest exprinces, because the whole truck became 20 times harder to steer, and the brakes hardly worked starting as soon as the engine died, all because of a bad engine sensor on a vehicle with 14,000 miles, alot of vehicles had simaler modles that have non power steering steering racks that can be swaped out giving you the greater efficentcy of not running a power steering pump, and the only time you will notice it's not there is maybe while parking, altho even in a parking lot I can swing my wheels around with one finger on the wheel.
I also found that if I take a route from work in to town (not really twards home) that after driving for a quarter might straight up hill, that I can coast for the next 2 miles with the enigne off, and that I have enough vaccum saved up to use the brakes twice, the third time the assist is loosing affectivenes.
most of the time tho I tend to leave my engine running, and just bump start in the driveway, and parking lots, if the car will roll at all you can normal bump start after being parked.

I've added a few extra steps that smooth things out when I bump start:
press clutch or put car in neutral
turn key to off position, wait for motor to stop
turn key to on position so turn signals still work
Coast
When it's time to bump start:
Select gear
turn key off
lift foot off clutch
turn key on
drive
I've found that the extra key off/key on eliminates any surging or attempts of the ecu to add fuel when it senses the engine starting from a stop. It's a seamless transition for me and my car.

Bump starting is all up to what car you have, speeds and such. I bump start my Civic in 2,3,4,5. Just depends on the speeds and whats going on around me. Sometimes I bump it in one gear and place it in another for the movement needed. There is no iron clad way to know what will work for you and not me. I have to do things different in the Ranger than the Civic.

Please get out on a abandoned road or parking lot and get the basics down. Please push your car and yourself to find out what you can and cant do. The lack of power steering bothers some drivers a lot. Find out if you have the upper body strength to eoc as they call it here. If you cant throw your car around and make emergency maneuvers don't do it on the roads. Also find out how fast you loose your brake boost. And see if you have enough leg to stop the car in the event you loose boost. Also make sure you know where the emergency brake is and how to use it.

Eoc/Fas along with P&G are very advanced tools of the hypermilers tool bag. Don't just strike out and start off with these tools. Im almost to the point of not saying anything about them in the public because of the over all lack of drivers knowledge and skill levels.

psy

Use the tools that you are comfortable with . I myself am opposed to the idea of EOC/bumping , BUT thats just me . That may very well change as I get used to the car and the idea of loss of full control .The benefits of stretching the tank are definitely there .The ingrained philosophy of it being unsafe was taught to me from day 1 behind the wheel - changing that thought process will take some time.

yeah it took me some time to feel fine with eocing also but im over it now

Well, today was my first attempt at bump starting. I tried it late at night with no cars on the road, and also in my own driveway. It simply won't work with my Eagle. The steering wheel completely locks up and the brake pedal jams. I was lucky to not wreck in my own driveway.

The Metro on the otherhand was a different story. The manual steering works equally well with or without the engine on. The brakes work fine, but I did notice a peculiar oddity. You can only press the brake pedal once and receive maximum braking. After that braking is substantially weaker, though not to a level which is 'unsafe'. Perhaps someone can explain that, though I am assuming it may have something to do with pressure build up?

The Metro is an auto. I simply shifted into neutral, turned it off, and then turned it back on when I needed to accelerate again, then shifted to D. Is this fine? I am concerned about the long term effects on bump starting though. Has anyone noticed starter wear from having to crank the engine so many times? If so, I'll have to curb my bump starting habits. Right now, I am doing engine off coasting down signifcant hills (neutral for minor ones) and up to stop signs (and lights if applicable... depends on simply judging the road). Is this too much?

The braking deal is because the brake booster stores up some vacuum from the engine being on, which is released when you brake. Eventually you run out after using the brake.

with the metro you not really bumpstarting it. i do the same in my car because it isnt a manual. it can harm your tranny after a while because there isnt any oil getting to a specifc bearing in a auto tranny.

Figures.

I hate automatics.

there such a waste of everything good. energy fun it sucks thats what i have cant wait to get rid of it

But for me, the most tantalizing thing of all is that we have two other Geo's for parts, both with 5 speed manual transmissions. If only I knew anything about cars.

Seriously. It's not that hard, I did it on my CRX, ;). Just dive in there (and get a shop manual).

It takes alot to actually wear out that bearing. I've been EOC'ing in an AT car for 20k miles. It now has around 125k miles on it, and the tranny still runs fine. Most don't last this long. If the bearing lost oil quickly, I would need a new tranny right now.

how far do you eoc on a tank tho i know mine add up. ive been testing p@g with engine on and i think that might be the best way because you still have everything and you coast really far.

I EOC at least five times every time I get into the car and sometimes more. I know the timing of all of the lights in my area, so I can coast for 1/2 mile to a red light. I also EOC when I get to a reasonable distance from my destination, and just about always have to go over a bridge that I EOC down. Overall, I've coasted alot with the engine off.

yeah same here with those #s i would think so. i didnt see much of a increase from eoc tho thats why i cant wait to finish my 100 miles (sounds wierd to say that) so i can see the results of p@g on the higway. somtime tomarrow i will post on the results

Well, I don't think that it's entirely me. I think that there is something wrong with the car that is causing it to use less fuel. I was getting about 25 mpg in the city before learning how to drive green. That entailed alot of A/C, heavy acceleration, alot of idling, etc.

lol you mean somthing awesomely wrong. if you find out what it is tell me so i can break it

Lol. Can you make a video of your P&G tomorrow? I'm curious about how you're accelerating and how long you're coasting for. I might be able to add something to it since we have pretty much identical cars.

idk about tomarrow because i have to work alot but i will try to do it and send it somehow.

i do accelerate pretty quick tho but i want to get those #s out so i can see what the mpg is over a 100 miles

proletariandan -

This is the best way I can describe it with my manual transmission :

1 - EOC'ng between 25 and 35 MPH, key already in "start" position.
2 - Push clutch down with foot
3 - Put in 5th gear
4a - Let up on clutch quickly, but not all the way, just enough to "tap the flywheel", is how I like to think of it.
4b - Push clutch back in right away to let engine turn over and start revving.
5 - Re-engage 5th gear and be on my merry way.

When I do it right, there is almost no bump in the start. This might be a form of double-clutching, I don't know.

In 5th gear below 25 MPH, the bump in the bump-start gets rougher. At 20 MPH, I think that 4th gear is best for my car.

But like everyone says, your drivetrain will have a different sweet spot. If I were you, I would find an empty road and experiment with "how low can I bump smoothly in 5th gear". Below 20 MPH, I usually use the starter.

CarloSW2

I have been coasting and bump starting for years. I still have my original clutch and starter 107000 miles. Geos were made with PBrakes in all models to my knowledge. Always check to see if you have P/S before attempting shutting your engine off! That is one reason I have no interest in Aveos they are standard with P/S.
Autos are funny animals. I was an auto tech for 16 yrs. Some GM veh. can be towed or coasted forever and not hurt them. Others can't for a couple of miles. Geo automatics are not recommended for towing so be careful with your auto. A few seconds won't hurt you but a long mountain coast consisting of miles could affect it's life. Your pump is the heart of your auto. Manuals don't care as they are lubed by splash affect. Some autos are fine because there split line or fluid level is so high they can get residule splash affect. If not you can burn the bushings and carriers up. If you own a CVT built by GM, can't speak on others no coasting AT ALL if you run out of gas STOP!