Oh, BTW, if these are for the metro, Escort GT springs from the junkyard fit... cut 3 coils from the front and 2 from the back and cut the bump stops in half.
That should be enough to make a clear aero difference. Yep... I'm looking for a metro....:D Like this: https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...83ca208790.jpg from here: https://www.geocities.com/metrosport2k/jason.html |
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theclencher -
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Attachment 943 https://www.gotfuturama.com/Informati...s/clamps.dhtml But ... you'd have to go into cryo for 1000 years and join the robot mafia ... CarloSW2 |
My springs are progressive rates, so cutting is not an option for them. Other's cars might be different though...
I might make my own clamps, those dont seem to lower it enough. If I get it down an inch, I might get it back to factory height. Since I removed so much weight it sits higher. |
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So I'm going to take an intuitive crack at the spring scratch ideas floating in here...
So coil springs are just, in this case, steel rod that has been bent... On a smaller spring, where the ratio between scratch depth and rod thickness is high, a weakness would be very noticeable (especially in fatigue life).... For a larger rod thickness, like what you'll find on a car - it's going to be mighty difficult to blame a scratch as the reason for failure given how many fatigue cycles it's going to ultimately endure before failure..... What seems more likely is that you'll scratch a protective coating (as theclencher eluded to)... And it will start to rust and corrode... Quote:
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You can try the clamps (I'd ask /innocentface/ "can I bring 'em back if they don't fit my springs?/end innocentface/) if you wanna DIY and just a small drop. If they are variable rate springs make sure you put them on the thicker part (so you keep your small bump sensitivity). For me? I'd drop the little bugger with the escort springs and look for a stiffer sway bar to boot. Nothin' wrong with having a hypermiler that can be fun in the twisties too... err, for "carving" turns during a coast down;) "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow" -Smokey Yunick |
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You can model a variable rate spring as a set of springs in series... Which means the equivalent spring rate is the inverse of the sum of the inverse of each spring rate. For Two springs: https://scienceworld.wolfram.com/physics/simg487.gif So you can't cut out the very stiff spring and expect the less stiff section to keep the ride smooth - both are dependent on each other. ----- But, progressive springs are a whole different story - progressive springs (nonlinear spring rate) are NOT the same as variable springs (linear spring rate). Progressives depend on coil binding. So, in theory you could cut the non binding section - BUT, you still won't preserve the spring characteristics as the spring is linear while coils are not bound. So you're going to go from a stiffer spring overall to a MUCH stiffer spring (in nonlinear fashion) as coils bind :thumbdown: |
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Backseat section: 30lbs (noone is in the back and i haul stuff with it) Rear bumper inner support bar: 10lbs (the metal was rusted to the point of no purpose and the plastic "bar" was just sitting there...it squeeked like hell too) Rear swaybar and hardware: 6lbs (dont ask) Headunit and speakers: 10lbs (blown) Rear sound deadening: approx. 10lbs (i cant remember for sure) There's 66lbs, the rest was smaller stuff. I just removed the carpet and some of the front sound deadening becuase water got through a rubber plug and made the carpet nasty. Still have to weigh that but a good 20 lbs in that. |
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So where would you recommend binding a variable spring? The Escort GT springs are linear I believe. The ride will be more harsh, (which is fine by me I body roll decreases at the same time) but after looking at the pics of the car he's working on I don't think a dropped autocross style geo is his thing, which is what I'd have fun in. I think he just wants the simplest path to a stock ride after weight reduction. (speak up here bro, what's your goal...) |
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