Once you try Royal Purple you will never go back. Once the purple dye burns off it turns totally clear for 500 miles or so. You can't even see it on the dipstick.

Having said that, since winter is approaching I am going to give Mobil1 5w-20 a try.

I've been using WalMart's house brand synthetic, called Super Tech. About $14/5 qt jug. It's labeled "SAE Full Synthetic". 4000 mi. changes. Looks decent when it comes out.

OK, I'm sure it's not as good as Mobile 1 but it's about 1/2 the price. I figure it's better than dino oil.

I've also begun changing out the tranny fluid, 2-1/2 qt. at each 4000 mi. oil change. I drain the tranny pan once and refill. I'm putting Mobil 1 synth tranny fluid in there. That stuff is about $6/qt but I've read on the Volvo message boards that it's the best way to go. No lower cost synthetic tranny fluids available around here.

I'm currently using a mix of the Amsoil TSO (0w30) and ASM (0w20) oils in my cars. They aren't exactly cheap, but they do seem to work very well (as well as last a long time, in a clean engine).

However, I might be a little biased, as I liked them so much I became a dealer. So if any GasSavers members (that don't already have an existing Amsoil dealer) are interested in their products, just PM me, and I'll be happy to give you a call and discuss what discounts I can give a fellow gassavers member.

I think I'm currently going somewhere in the 15,000-25,000 range. Of course, I also use very extra good oil, and extra fine oil filtration, and I also have a cleaner than average engine (although a good synthetic will also tend to keep your engine clean).

Without those two factors, I would personally be hesitant to go more than 10,000 miles (if that far) on a motor oil


Yes, they really do CLAIM that.

Is it good advice? IMHO no. Based upon both my experiences with Mobil-1 (including their Mobil-1 Extended Performance grade) and analysis/reports of others on the "Bob is the Oil Guy" forums, Mobil-1 is really a mid-range (or maybe even a low mid-range) synthetic (even though it's marketed as if it were a "high grade" synthetic). IMHO it's a heck of a lot better than normal "dino" oil, but not up to the top end synthetics.

And my personal experience is that Mobil-1 tended to wear out someone in the 8,000-12,000 range (well below the 15,000 they advertised). Granted, that is still a LOT better then "regular oil". However, I personally think 15,000 would usually be "pushing it" on Mobil-1.

Personally if you are thinking of going with the "high end" Mobil-1, I would suggest you just spend an extra $1 or $2 a quart, and go with a top rated Amsoil oil (as I think it's a much better oil, that would hold up much better). Granted the "retail" price for the Amsoil is noticeably more than that, but discounts (vs "retail") are available, making the final "street price" only slightly more than the Mobil-1.

NOTE: If you want the Amsoil, give me a PM, and I'll be happy to arrange a discount for a fellow gassavers member.

BTW:
As you have pointed out, properly (i.e. in a "safe" manor) extending your oil change interval really can SAVE YOU MONEY even when it makes the cost of the individual oil changes more. However, to do this you really need to "build up to it". i.e. 1) Take steps to clean out your engine first, as "engine sludge" is an enemy of long oil changes, 2) Use a very high end synthetic (as mentioned, I used to use Mobil-1, and now think the slightly higher cost of the Amsoil is "worth it"), 3) and by all means use premium grade filtration (again, Amsoil makes one of the best oil filters currently on the market) because it doesn't matter a whole lot how good your oil is IF/WHEN the oil just plain gets "too dirty".

Yes, I've used it.

IMHO it's a mid-grade synthetic, being marketed/sold to the public as if it's a high grade synthetic. i.e. it will blow away the results you are likely to get from most regular "dino oils", but really high end synthetics can still surpass it in key areas. And once I realized that little fact, I switched to some of the high end synthetics from Amsoil, and liked some of their products so much I later applied for a dealership (so that I could offer others discounts on quality oil, as well as get the "wholesale price" for my own needs).

IMHO quality synthetics, combined with extra high quality micro-filtration, can make a very potent combo. Properly done (which alas includes checking your dip stick from time to time, and adding "make up oil" when it's a little low, because running oil "too low" can be a real "bad thing"), that combo has the potential to actually save money on oil changes (because even though the oil changes are more costly, you can do them less often). And since you are already saving money on the oil changes (because you have to do them less often), the other benefits of good synthetics (such as more "power" and often slightly better FE as well) are really "free bonuses".

So yes. If done right, switching from dino oil changed often, to premium oil changes done less often, can be "worth it". And it's also the approach I take with my family vehicles.

I'm going to Mobi1 0W-20 with an Amsoil filter this Winter.
First, I'm going to try Auto-RX. Might as well start with a
clean engine.

:thumbup:

Note that they've revised their instructions regarding mileage.

Wait a second . . . are you changing the automatic or manual transmission fluid? Manuals don't need changing anywhere near that often.

You all should check and change the power steering fluid also - from what I hear it burns out in about 2 years and gets pretty dark when it does.

It's an auto-tranny car. Total tranny fluid capacity is just under 8 qt. so it's just a partial changeout every time I drain + refill 2.5 qt. Basically it gets cycled through faster than it gets used up so imho this is a good system when the fuid costs $6/qt.

And you're right about the p/s fluid. I do replace that occasionally also; I think I last did it this past spring - but I'd better check my records.

my truck reg oil. the wifes xterra 5.5qts. Mobil 1. If i get a Mobil one oil change at work, i usually keep the extras. 6.5q for titan. 4.5 altima, i just keep the .5qts each time. i change my oil 3k almost for free. now i have 4 qts just 1.5 to go.

sheesh i dont change my manual tranny fluid but once every 100k miles, comes out slightly darker than when i put it in!, ive never changed power steering fluid before either. mines clearish so why worry about it? pumps already taking a dump on me(pulley shaft is leakign so it runs/gets sprayed everywhere) but doesnt use much at all.

automatics is about every 20-30k miles.

i would prolyl swap to synthetic but i got way to many miles/age logged on both my cars... now i know of someone who uses walmart brand dyno oil and filters and has over 300k on his s-10... its all its ever seen too.

OK the auto makes sense as long as it blends with the old stuff - a bit expensive but a good idea to keep some fresh oil in the auto tranny.

Manual transmissions are critical for power robbing losses. Adding the Slick50 to my tranny made a big difference about 4 mpg increase which stayed when I switched to Synlube. They work great in really cold temps with Amsoil too - used that in my 80 rabbit and man what a difference that made - stock oil could not even shift out of 1st gear on really cold days until I drove a few blocks - then with the amsoil it was like a summer day. Once changed it should be good for 70-100k but the important thing is to have good stuff in there in the first place.