What synthetic oil are you using???? And HoW oFtEn YoU cHaNgE iT?
 

Hi,
Just wondering what synthetic oil you guys are using? Also wondering how often you change it. I was at autozone today and noticed they have a Mobil 1 synthetic that says you change every 15k...Is this for real? It is 7 bucks a quart but hell every 15k sounds awesome. Has anyone used it? I just wanted your opinion on this..also what synthetic you use. I am currently using dino oil but thinking about swapping if it is really worth it.

Thanks!

well what ive heard from mechanics, and from my auto teacher, is almost all oils break down at 3k or 3 months, even synthetics. Now idk if this is true, but i can say Synthetics are alot better when it comes to temperature differences and is still better for your engine.

well u still gotta change your filter sometime in that 15k interval...

Clencher.
What do you think about the mobil 1 synthetic that doesn't have to be changed for 15k?

Vette,
You do?

There's no way you can predict how long it will take before detergent packages will deteriorate or how long it will take for oil to shear for all engines and environments.

I do 10K mile oil changes on dino oil - but, I spend $25 extra for oil analysis to make sure the oil that came out was still effectively serving it's purpose. If it wasn't, I'd shorten the oil change interval for next time. For me, that has not been the case ;)

-----
Here's a Mobile 1 super syn experiment with oil analysis every 1K miles - it lasted 18,000 miles
https://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

This one with Amsoil - 12K miles
https://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html

Both tests show that adding oil as needed will extend the life of your oil by a great deal ;) Keep in mind that in the above tests -- the oil filter change is not the reason why metals dropped and rather, it was the additional oil added that lowered the amount of metal (the oil analysis looks at metal particulate smaller than the filter can handle).

But again, ymmv ;)

Regular M1 0-20 or 5-20 10k mile oil changes. Have been using M1, PureOne or Wix oil filters.

psyshack,
10k on dino oil...wow...explain...and 0-20 is this ok to run in a civic vx?

trebuchet03 makes a great point. If you are at all worried about oil changes, your best bet is to get oil analyses. This will tell you for certain what your boundaries are. The fact is, that even the same exact car will give different results depending on how it is driven, where it is driven, and when it is driven. There are wayyyy too many factors to consider for anyone to be able to say that one oil works better than another.

So, go with an oil that you can trust (I would say that Mobil 1 passes this test) and give it a go. Most people I know (who are obsessed with oil) don't change filters until they do their actual oil change, but you can do what you want in this area. Here's to hoping you get better mileage and extend your drain interval!!

Tried Both
 

Well, I've tried both...

When I used Syn -- (caution random assessment)...

It burned up pretty quickly when I had my '99 Si -- I did run it pretty hard then -- when it was a year old, it burnt up the Syn, ran low, VTEC failed to engage in a hard corner and the whole works went into "Limp Home Mode". Freaked out and took it to the dealer. Yup, I needed to check it more often -- my fault. It was changed, and everything was fine. OTOH it works well in the Winter on startup and that's all I've gotten. It was just really expensive and I couldn't justify it.

This argument is as older than most of us, but NE-way...

I do about 7.5K on the 'Teg with dino 5W-30 and use the reminder/calculator on the TSX (which turns out to be 6K or so). Problem is, the 'Teg is a bit leaky around the valve cover, so that needs replaced so a quart has to be added in between. Seems to work OK...

RH77

Definitely!:thumbup:

For those who have balked at using synthetic because of the cost, scan their rebate forum for deals ranging from free to only a buck or two per quart. For example, until Halloween you can get Valvoline Synpower for $1.50/qt. after rebate, and both DuraBlend and Max-Life for $1.00/qt. after rebate.

I am going for 150,000 on Synlube with a filter change at 36,000 and 75,000 miles. So far I have 17,370 with the first and only oil change at 3700 miles. It really depends upon how you drive - get the oil warmed up well and not over heated and all oils will last a lot longer.

I have used both Amzoil and Mobil 1 (in different vehicles) and change it annually. But I don't drive a lot of miles, maybe 4 or 5k on the 4cyl Ranger pu, and 10k on the Metro. I also change filter and add a bit of oil at 3k miles. I would probably use synthetic just because of the easier winter start up--makes a noticable difference in the ease and speed of engine turn-over in below zero weather compared to dino oil.

I am using it because I think (hope?) it will give longer engine life, not necessarily that it will save me money because of longer oil change intervals.

I use Amsoil 0W30 in the engine, and a 10 micron filter that has about twice the filter area of the stock oil filter.
I tend to change my oil about once a year (12,000-15,000 miles) and add about a quart of oil in that year most owners manuals I've read say burning a quart every 7,000 miles is acceptable, the amsoil I use warenties agenst engine damage due to their product for 25,000 mile or one year oil change, so I go with the one year and so far it hasn't caused any problems.

an independent study(sorry, no link) compared ALL major motor oil brands(syn and dino) and found that amsoil had the highest flash(boil?) point and lowest pour (freeze) point of ANY oil in EVERY grade.

if you want detailed comparison of dino vs syn or amsoil vs other syn oil go to magicmechanic.com and ask larry.

I do NOT sell amsoil!

I DON'T sell Amsoil either but I am currently running it in my '07 Prius. I have ~6500 miles on it and it still looks pretty good. I'll probably change it at 10 or 15K. I also have one of their filters that they rate at 30K or so.

Here's a non Independent link on that subject :p
https://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chang...g-competitors/


But, that's more marketing than anything else. Virgin oil isn't what we're concerned with (I mean, that evidence shows all of those oils to be within the tolerance required and the tolerance that our engines were designed by). The big deal is what happens 10K miles down the road :p


Here's an independent study on AMS and Mobile 1.... But what I can't seem to find is if they are using Amsoil PAO or not...

amsoil - 12K miles
mobile 1 - 18K miles

didn't know amsoil made motor oil that wasn't PAO based. good links Treb!

curious tho that on the amsoil link that mobile1 did not score 2nd best across the board.

amsoil 0w 30(series 2000) claims to last 35k miles. change mine once/yr(10-12k), and filter change @ 6 mos.

I use Mobil1 5w30 on my both car.

lol i just use castrol GTX in my cars. i can usualyl find a sale on it for a good price. in my chevette its strange because if i DONT use the gtx high mileage it leaks a bit of oil, but if i do, it doesnt leak a drop....

Once you try Royal Purple you will never go back. Once the purple dye burns off it turns totally clear for 500 miles or so. You can't even see it on the dipstick.

Having said that, since winter is approaching I am going to give Mobil1 5w-20 a try.

I've been using WalMart's house brand synthetic, called Super Tech. About $14/5 qt jug. It's labeled "SAE Full Synthetic". 4000 mi. changes. Looks decent when it comes out.

OK, I'm sure it's not as good as Mobile 1 but it's about 1/2 the price. I figure it's better than dino oil.

I've also begun changing out the tranny fluid, 2-1/2 qt. at each 4000 mi. oil change. I drain the tranny pan once and refill. I'm putting Mobil 1 synth tranny fluid in there. That stuff is about $6/qt but I've read on the Volvo message boards that it's the best way to go. No lower cost synthetic tranny fluids available around here.

I'm currently using a mix of the Amsoil TSO (0w30) and ASM (0w20) oils in my cars. They aren't exactly cheap, but they do seem to work very well (as well as last a long time, in a clean engine).

However, I might be a little biased, as I liked them so much I became a dealer. So if any GasSavers members (that don't already have an existing Amsoil dealer) are interested in their products, just PM me, and I'll be happy to give you a call and discuss what discounts I can give a fellow gassavers member.

I think I'm currently going somewhere in the 15,000-25,000 range. Of course, I also use very extra good oil, and extra fine oil filtration, and I also have a cleaner than average engine (although a good synthetic will also tend to keep your engine clean).

Without those two factors, I would personally be hesitant to go more than 10,000 miles (if that far) on a motor oil


Yes, they really do CLAIM that.

Is it good advice? IMHO no. Based upon both my experiences with Mobil-1 (including their Mobil-1 Extended Performance grade) and analysis/reports of others on the "Bob is the Oil Guy" forums, Mobil-1 is really a mid-range (or maybe even a low mid-range) synthetic (even though it's marketed as if it were a "high grade" synthetic). IMHO it's a heck of a lot better than normal "dino" oil, but not up to the top end synthetics.

And my personal experience is that Mobil-1 tended to wear out someone in the 8,000-12,000 range (well below the 15,000 they advertised). Granted, that is still a LOT better then "regular oil". However, I personally think 15,000 would usually be "pushing it" on Mobil-1.

Personally if you are thinking of going with the "high end" Mobil-1, I would suggest you just spend an extra $1 or $2 a quart, and go with a top rated Amsoil oil (as I think it's a much better oil, that would hold up much better). Granted the "retail" price for the Amsoil is noticeably more than that, but discounts (vs "retail") are available, making the final "street price" only slightly more than the Mobil-1.

NOTE: If you want the Amsoil, give me a PM, and I'll be happy to arrange a discount for a fellow gassavers member.

BTW:
As you have pointed out, properly (i.e. in a "safe" manor) extending your oil change interval really can SAVE YOU MONEY even when it makes the cost of the individual oil changes more. However, to do this you really need to "build up to it". i.e. 1) Take steps to clean out your engine first, as "engine sludge" is an enemy of long oil changes, 2) Use a very high end synthetic (as mentioned, I used to use Mobil-1, and now think the slightly higher cost of the Amsoil is "worth it"), 3) and by all means use premium grade filtration (again, Amsoil makes one of the best oil filters currently on the market) because it doesn't matter a whole lot how good your oil is IF/WHEN the oil just plain gets "too dirty".

Yes, I've used it.

IMHO it's a mid-grade synthetic, being marketed/sold to the public as if it's a high grade synthetic. i.e. it will blow away the results you are likely to get from most regular "dino oils", but really high end synthetics can still surpass it in key areas. And once I realized that little fact, I switched to some of the high end synthetics from Amsoil, and liked some of their products so much I later applied for a dealership (so that I could offer others discounts on quality oil, as well as get the "wholesale price" for my own needs).

IMHO quality synthetics, combined with extra high quality micro-filtration, can make a very potent combo. Properly done (which alas includes checking your dip stick from time to time, and adding "make up oil" when it's a little low, because running oil "too low" can be a real "bad thing"), that combo has the potential to actually save money on oil changes (because even though the oil changes are more costly, you can do them less often). And since you are already saving money on the oil changes (because you have to do them less often), the other benefits of good synthetics (such as more "power" and often slightly better FE as well) are really "free bonuses".

So yes. If done right, switching from dino oil changed often, to premium oil changes done less often, can be "worth it". And it's also the approach I take with my family vehicles.

I'm going to Mobi1 0W-20 with an Amsoil filter this Winter.
First, I'm going to try Auto-RX. Might as well start with a
clean engine.

:thumbup:

Note that they've revised their instructions regarding mileage.

Wait a second . . . are you changing the automatic or manual transmission fluid? Manuals don't need changing anywhere near that often.

You all should check and change the power steering fluid also - from what I hear it burns out in about 2 years and gets pretty dark when it does.

It's an auto-tranny car. Total tranny fluid capacity is just under 8 qt. so it's just a partial changeout every time I drain + refill 2.5 qt. Basically it gets cycled through faster than it gets used up so imho this is a good system when the fuid costs $6/qt.

And you're right about the p/s fluid. I do replace that occasionally also; I think I last did it this past spring - but I'd better check my records.

my truck reg oil. the wifes xterra 5.5qts. Mobil 1. If i get a Mobil one oil change at work, i usually keep the extras. 6.5q for titan. 4.5 altima, i just keep the .5qts each time. i change my oil 3k almost for free. now i have 4 qts just 1.5 to go.

sheesh i dont change my manual tranny fluid but once every 100k miles, comes out slightly darker than when i put it in!, ive never changed power steering fluid before either. mines clearish so why worry about it? pumps already taking a dump on me(pulley shaft is leakign so it runs/gets sprayed everywhere) but doesnt use much at all.

automatics is about every 20-30k miles.

i would prolyl swap to synthetic but i got way to many miles/age logged on both my cars... now i know of someone who uses walmart brand dyno oil and filters and has over 300k on his s-10... its all its ever seen too.

OK the auto makes sense as long as it blends with the old stuff - a bit expensive but a good idea to keep some fresh oil in the auto tranny.

Manual transmissions are critical for power robbing losses. Adding the Slick50 to my tranny made a big difference about 4 mpg increase which stayed when I switched to Synlube. They work great in really cold temps with Amsoil too - used that in my 80 rabbit and man what a difference that made - stock oil could not even shift out of 1st gear on really cold days until I drove a few blocks - then with the amsoil it was like a summer day. Once changed it should be good for 70-100k but the important thing is to have good stuff in there in the first place.

For my 2007 Toyota Yaris, 1.5L, I use Mobil1 Filter, and Mobil1 0W-20 synthetic except during the summer, when I use Mobile1 0W-30. The car is spec'd for 5W-20 but I want less viscosity during start ups to minimize cold wear & tear on the engine. I change the oil every 5,000 miles. I believe that flow is more important to engine protection then pressure.

Journal bearings don't work as bearings without pressure :p

Except when you use Synlube then even 5-6 psi is enough to keep the bushings lubricated . . . Miro didn't recommend that I install a mechanical oil pressure gauge because pressure would not matter when using Synlube since the lubrication is provided by the solids in the lube and not the hydralic pressure. Seems weird but it is working great so far.

haha yup, its what goes when your oil pump dies...:D general rule of thumb on that is oil psi should go up 20 lbs per 1000 rpm.(least its true on 2.2L GM engines.)

Wouldn't this be dependent on oil temp? My 95 Chevy varies in PSI at idle at the start of a trip to the end. 62 PSI in the morning down to 25 PSI at work. But the idle also drops from 1500 to 800.

Journal bearings are fluid bearings - there's no physical contact between components (from something like a ball and race bearing). They also rely on pressure to work as a bearing... Theoretically, you could run those bearings using high pressure water (much higher given lower viscosity) :p The only time there's physical contact is during oil priming and startup (no or very little pressure). So if you had high flow, low pressure - they won't be working as bearings, and instead it will just be a lubricated shaft spinning in a cylinder :/

I'm not saying that solid lubricants are not necessary - I'm just saying that given a journal bearing with a properly functioning oiling system, there should never be metal to metal contact (where you'd want/need solid lubricant).

Actually it probably relies on the oil film strength since the piston is seeing 190 psi and the piston area is far greater than the curved bearing surface so you are seeing much higher pressures on the bearing even before the spark ignites the fuel than the oil pressure is providing.

I switched over to Amsoil in my 2001 Chevy Impala right after it turned over 201,000 miles for the extended oil and filter changes. The Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic motor oil and filter are rated for 25,000-mile change intervals. I have almost 205,000 miles on the car now and the oil still looks like it was when I put it in. As an added benefit my Impala gained 2 mpg, it starts easier and is smoother running with Amsoil. Now I expect to get another 200,000 miles out of the car as long as the rest of the car doesn’t wear out before the engine.

In addition my buddy and I did a little lab test Redneck style. We took a capful of Amsoil ATF and a cap full of petroleum ATF and put them in separate drip pans. Then we took a torch and lit them on fire. The Amsoil immediately tried to move away from the flame before catching fire. We let it burn until it went out waited for it to cool and the Amsoil ATF was still liquid and slippery. The petroleum ATF lit off immediately, produced really black smoke and turned to charcoal like burning something in a frying pan. There was a little liquid left in a corner that was like stepping on gum when I ran my finger through it.

https://www.lubedealer.com/T&SMay/fea...ductsview.aspx

yea true, oil gets warm gets thinner.that and i dunno about you but i know on my s-10 cold starts the oil psi needle doesnt moce until itswarmed up. i think the sending unit is eithe rgetting gummed up when its cold so that could be a possibility for you too

Your right it will come in handy when the tranny catches fire!

It also helps extent the life of transmissions used in towing applications that tend to run hot.