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-   -   Going amsoil tomorrow! (https://www.fuelly.com/forums/f8/going-amsoil-tomorrow-6390.html)

lovemysan 10-14-2007 06:25 PM

Going amsoil tomorrow!
 
Tomorrow I plan to change to mobil1 0w30 out for amsoil 0w20. I'll start by doing a flush using the amsoil engine flush. I went ahead a bought the amsoil oil filter too. It was only a few bucks more anyway. I'm not sure if I'll do the 25000 mile change interval though. I guess technically the engine doesn't drive my car the full 25000. lol

Surprisingly the amsoil was only $7.70 quart. I thought it'd be more. I think I paid about $6 for mobil1 and eww! I don't like my money going to them. $45 is a little steep for an oil change but I'll just do half as many.

1 gallon 0w20 30.10
1 oil filter 15.30
engine flush 5.60

VetteOwner 10-14-2007 07:18 PM

that reminds me, i gotta dump in a bit of seafoam in my oil sometime soon(bout 200 miles till next oil change)

well tell us if anyhting is different...

bowtieguy 10-15-2007 02:44 PM

wondering why 0w20 and not 0w30. 20 prolly gives slightly better FE, but at the cost of better lube?

0w30 is more expensive right? but, unless you live in a cool climate(winter is coming), might stay w/ a 30 weight.

in warmer climates, 20 weight should NEVER be used. if you live in near freezing weather conditions a great part of the year, then it's acceptable.

i use an amsoil 40 weight--very hot, old car/high mileage, noisy lifter.

Sigifrith 10-15-2007 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowtieguy (Post 76740)
wondering why 0w20 and not 0w30. 20 prolly gives slightly better FE, but at the cost of better lube?

0w30 is more expensive right? but, unless you live in a cool climate(winter is coming), might stay w/ a 30 weight.

in warmer climates, 20 weight should NEVER be used. if you live in near freezing weather conditions a great part of the year, then it's acceptable.

i use an amsoil 40 weight--very hot, old car/high mileage, noisy lifter.

From Dr. Haas at FerrariChat. He lives in Florida.
https://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39561

"I personally use Mobil 1, 0W-20 in the 575 Maranello and for the first oil change I drained the Murcielago?s 5W-40 Agip and replaced it with 0W-30 Mobil 1. The engine became much quieter. A valve tappet noise disappeared. I may try the 0W-20 next. For all my other cars I use the regular Pennzoil Multigrade 5W-20."

lovemysan 10-15-2007 04:12 PM

Well I talked to the rep about it before I went with it. He wasn't too concerned(he's been selling it since 1979). I was going to run 0w30, but as you said the 0w20 is a bit cheaper. It also is rated for a shorter life cycle. I was running m1 0w30(mixed it up myself) from walmart. I don't think I'll have a problem. I hope not anyway. This ain't a ferrari thats for sure.

MnFocus 10-15-2007 04:17 PM

You'll be fine with the 0-20 .

1993CivicVX 10-15-2007 06:26 PM

wow, too much info on oils. So my oil filter was changed 3,000 miles ago, I only need to change my oil? What about fall weather. 40 weight prolly not the best for my engine on a sub freezing morning, right?

May be doing an oil change in the morning.

"Amsoil
Amsoil actually makes some very good products. The negative image of Amsoil is due to their distribution method (MLM) and their marketing approach. If Amsoil products were competitively priced with Mobil 1 and other synthetics, and if I could buy them in a store, I would not hesitate to use their XL-7500 synthetic as opposed to Mobil 1. What upsets me about Amsoil is that they didn't disclose until recently (and then it was by accident) the real reason that their oils (except for XL-7500) are not API certified. In the past they came up with all sorts of bizarre excuses about the reason for their lack of API certification and this greatly contributed to the distrust that people have of the company." --https://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Which%20Oil%20to%20Use

smay665949 10-15-2007 07:25 PM

You won't regret using Amsoil! My wife and I drive 3 vehicles a total of 65,000 miles a year. I switched to Amsoil so I could take advantage of the extended oil changes but was pleased when I gained 2 MPG by switching to Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic in my 01 Chevy Impala. The oil was changed at 201,000 miles and with 204,000 miles it still looks new. I also ran Amsoil’s “PI Performance Improver Concentrate”. Now the engine runs like it did 130,000 miles ago. The Amsoil 10-30 and filter are rated to 25,000 miles but I plan to sample at 15,000 miles the first time since my engine has so many miles on it.

Sigifrith 10-15-2007 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smay665949 (Post 76787)
........................................... Now the engine runs like it did 130,000 miles ago.

How did your engine run 130,000 miles ago, & how is it different?

unstable bob 10-16-2007 06:26 PM

I'm going to switch to Amsoil for the next oil change on my Cavalier. I've heard a lot of good stuff about it, so I want to give it a try. :thumbup:

MorningGaser 10-17-2007 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowtieguy (Post 76740)
wondering why 0w20 and not 0w30. 20 prolly gives slightly better FE, but at the cost of better lube?

0w30 is more expensive right? but, unless you live in a cool climate(winter is coming), might stay w/ a 30 weight.

in warmer climates, 20 weight should NEVER be used. if you live in near freezing weather conditions a great part of the year, then it's acceptable.

i use an amsoil 40 weight--very hot, old car/high mileage, noisy lifter.

Don't believe the hot-weather-never W20 myth. The 0W-20 at optimally hot engine temperatures gives the same protection as the 0W-30 or 5W-30. Since 90% of engine wear happens during first starts in the morning, the lower weight 0w-20 will give BETTER protection to your engine, and that means less wear. At hot operating temperatures, both 20 & 30 are near identical in viscosity, and for practical purposes give the same protection.

I use 5W-20 during summer and 0W-20 during the other 3 seasons, and in So. Cal it can average 95F or more during the summer.

bowtieguy 10-17-2007 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MorningGaser (Post 77012)
Don't believe the hot-weather-never W20 myth. The 0W-20 at optimally hot engine temperatures gives the same protection as the 0W-30 or 5W-30. Since 90% of engine wear happens during first starts in the morning, the lower weight 0w-20 will give BETTER protection to your engine, and that means less wear. At hot operating temperatures, both 20 & 30 are near identical in viscosity, and for practical purposes give the same protection.

I use 5W-20 during summer and 0W-20 during the other 3 seasons, and in So. Cal it can average 95F or more during the summer.

a local(orlando,FL) mechanic has a radio show in which consumer advocate issues are a large focus. anyway, he claims there are lube problems in ford cars, especially v8 motors which use 20w and the manufacturer recommends it.

having said that, not sure if there would be an issue with syn oil of this weight. also smaller engines may not have an issue. lastly, this may be only an issue in very warm climates. maybe combinations apply?

so, as always, i consider there could be different strokes for folks or cars.

smay665949 10-04-2008 11:05 AM

It ran smoother.

DracoFelis 10-04-2008 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowtieguy (Post 76740)
wondering why 0w20 and not 0w30. 20 prolly gives slightly better FE, but at the cost of better lube?

While the Amsoil 0w30 is a great lube, their 0w20 is still a pretty good lube in my experience.

And remember, synthetic oils generally THICKEN (get higher weight) when they wear out, vs conventional oils that THIN (get lower weight) when they wear out. That point is significant, because it means that a good synthetic allows you to start with an oil that is just think enough to do the job, and it will continue to be thick enough for the entire life of the oil. OTOH with conventional oils you have to start with an oil that is much more thick then needed, in order to have the oil still be "thick enough" when it wears out. So it's not unreasonable to expect that a car which is designed for 10w30 (or 5w30) conventional oil (which THINS as it wears out) might be able to handle a good synthetic 0w20 (which will never be any thinner than the initial 0w20 weight, and will in fact thicken over time). Of course, if you really want to be "safe", just go with the 0w30, and then you are sure you are within engine specs.

FWIW: On my CRX, I currently put in 1 or 2 quarts of 0w30 when I first change my oil, and the rest (including any "make up oil" while driving) is the 0w20 stuff. And that approach seems to work pretty well. Again, the idea is that as the oil ages it actually thickens, so going with the 0w20 for some of the oil in the initial mix (and all of the "make up oil") still leaves me with an oil that seems "thick enough" for the job (without having an oil that gets "too think" over time).

shatto 10-04-2008 02:13 PM

As to oil and filter changes; unless you drive to the corner grocery and three miles to work, in otherwords very hard use, you'll do fine changing oil and filter at 25,000 miles. Get an oil analysis half-way, for the engine and transmission just to satisfy your curiosity. You'll have a baseline for later analysis anyhow.
Extended oil changes worked fine for me on my last vehicle, my Dakota. The engine and transmission managed to last 623,000 miles with Amsoil.

The picture of your engine looks like a 4-banger.
The Amsoil site has a place: AUTO AND LIGHT TRUCK LOOKUP GUIDE over to the right, and it says the 4 cylinder engine uses 30 weight oil.

If your engine is tight and in good condition, and you are a very gentle driver, you can maybe might get away with using 20 weight oil.

GM put a wad of engineering money into designing that engine and they specified 30 weight oil because of the lubrication and protection requirements. They had 20 weight then, but chose 30.
You'd feel silly, having to replace something like a camshaft because you used the wrong oil.

On the other hand, Amsoil can handle some incredible abuse.

bowtieguy 10-04-2008 06:20 PM

interesting this thread got bumped...

today, my consumer advocate mechanic talked about amsoil vs mobile1 on his radio show.

besides the higher quality base, it has an ingredient that mobile1 does not have. can't remember the name, but it serves to make/keep seals soft which prevents them from leaking.

today's show if you have time to listen...

https://www.streamaudio.com/Player/Pl...3pm.wma&OptIn=

https://wdbo.com/ads/ate_themagicmechanicshow.html

bowtieguy 10-04-2008 06:54 PM

ok, i relistened. the ingredient is esther(correct spelling?).

GasSavers_GasUser 10-05-2008 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemysan (Post 76664)
Tomorrow I plan to change to mobil1 0w30 out for amsoil 0w20. I'll start by doing a flush using the amsoil engine flush. I went ahead a bought the amsoil oil filter too. It was only a few bucks more anyway. I'm not sure if I'll do the 25000 mile change interval though. I guess technically the engine doesn't drive my car the full 25000. lol

Surprisingly the amsoil was only $7.70 quart. I thought it'd be more. I think I paid about $6 for mobil1 and eww! I don't like my money going to them. $45 is a little steep for an oil change but I'll just do half as many.

1 gallon 0w20 30.10
1 oil filter 15.30
engine flush 5.60

It has been about a year since you changed over to the 0-20 Amsoil, so I was wondering how you were making out since the change.


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