Tip for those with Autos
If you don't want to keep turning the ignition off and on at traffic lights...do put the tranny into neutral. It takes more fuel to "load" the torque converter when it is in drive. My Jeep Liberty Diesel fuels at 15.6mm3 in drive and 6.3mm3 in neutral. With my diesel you can actually "feel" the difference while sitting still.
*mm3 is CFR (Calculated Fuel Rate) |
Our 02 Honda Odyssey registers .5gph in D at a stop and .4gph in N at a stop according to the Scan Gauge. Not much difference, but it's sumpin'.
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The Cabrio uses about 0.3GPH idling, and I save roughly 10% of idle fuel if I drop it in neutral. Not much, but it all adds up!
Think of it this way: The tranny's in neutral and the engine's free-wheeling at some RPM. Drop it in drive with your foot on the brake. If RPMs stay the same, you're clearly burning more fuel to keep the RPMs up against the load of the immobilized car through the TC. (Meaning it might not matter as much if the RPM drops when you put it in drive while idling. I think my first (carbed, non-ECU'd) car acted that way... I dunno if anything even remotely recent would, though.) Rick |
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Thanks for this post, I wasn't aware if the difference was at all noticeable, but I'll try doing this from now on and see how it goes.
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The scan gauge isn't always accurate. For example, I did a trip to California from Mississippi. On my first leg I was coasting with the engine on in N the first 2 legs of the trip. The SG2 reported that this method was yielding about 30mpg for the tank. When I filled it up I had only gotten 25 and 26 mpg. So in closing the only thing that matters is the amount of fuel consumed regardless of what a gauge might say.
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popimp, have you calibrated yours? For the past few trips, my scanguage has been pretty accurate.
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Yes it's been calibrated. It reports high only when I use the Neutral engine on coasting. If I don't Neutral coast the SG2 is on the money.
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Does the same go for carb'd engines or just EFI? I don't see how it'd work on a carb, but you never know...
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Handy knowledge! I figured my girlfriend was gonna kill me if I kept killing the engine at lights, heat cuts out DAMN fast in the Saturn with the engine off. I think it's because the heater controls are vacuum operated, no engine, no heat.
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Aha - I think I saw this on cleanmpg.com
I believe you need to set the ScanGauge to "Hybrid". This allows it to track distance and register zero (instantaneous) fuel consumption. Yes, that's for non-hybrid cars. Hybrids of course, you also set it to "Hybrid". https://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/revie...e-ii-4495.html Quoting from there: The next setup parameter from the detailed setup screen that needs to be adjusted is “Fuel”. Push the button next to “MORE” ---> Push the Button next to “SETUP” ---> Push the Button next to “FUEL”. 1. Press the button next to “TYPE”. 2. Select the type of vehicle by pressing the top buttons on the right or left to show Gas, Diesel a, Diesel b or Hybrid. If you do not own a diesel, select Hybrid even if you do not own a hybrid for the ability to continue recording data points through a FAS. [Note: "FAS" = EOC] 3. Press the button next to “SAVE”. 4. Press the “Home” button which will bring you back to the initial Selection screen. |
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The heat works because the water pump sends HOT antifreeze / coolant through the heater core, which is basically a small radiator, so it has fins which heat up. Then your interior fan blows air through that heater core, the air absorbs the heat from the fins and this creates warm air. When you turn the engine off, the water pump stops and your coolant stops circulating. It takes only seconds for a fan to cool off what hot water is left in the heater core, doesn't matter what vents it's blowing out of, without HOT coolant circulation you have no heat. Try instead turn your interior fan OFF when the engine is off. Or keep the key out of accessory mode. Shouldn't get nearly as cold now. |
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