Ok, all the personal jabs at me aside, I think I hit a cord with the HHO community on the subject of alternator efficiency.

The computer modifications people are making are where the 20% in gas savings is coming from. Way back in high school, I put a chip on my 1989 GMC Sierra V8 350 that would let me tune to a racing mode. In this mode I could smell the gas coming out the tail pipe. In economy mode, the engine had very little power, but saved me a tremendous amount of gas.

Has anyone done research on the leaning out of the injectors yet?

What would happen if you disconnected the 20AMP alternator load and just ran your vehicle with the fuel leaning mod? :thumbup:

P.S. HHO people: you do realize that Gassavers.org is updated daily in the Google search engine. The posts we are making are influencing the people who search for your products. I hope you get this argument right! :D

Hho
 

You really think that is enough to boost a semi? lol. I'm not going to blow my car up am I when I hook this up for the first time on wednesday? lol.


The reason why I am overloading it with baking soda. Is so it only takes 2 minutes to get to 20AMPS, rather then waiting 30 minutes to 1 hour. for it to get at the full amperage.

I need a more perminate solution for this without a PWM. As the amps aren't controlled.

What device could I use? Thanks.

I want it so the device can never go past 20 AMPS, No matter what.

Sorry I am also curiouse, anyone even know what kind of boost I can expect to see with my system?

10 month old thread.

Any member got a gas log showing any appreciable increase in mileage attributable solely to HHO?

You know "double your mileage, run your car on water".

Why would they be worried about doubling their mileage if their car runs on water?

regards
gary

Billman I really think PWM would be the best way. Use a microcontroller and feedback the output and when draw gets higher than 20amps you just have it decrease duty cycle on the fly to maintain 20amp average.

That totally made my day! aaaaahahahaha

Get fancy and make a PWM that is adjustable to the current you set instead of what you are currently doing:

chemical energy -> thermal energy -> mechanical energy -> 3-phase AC electrical energy -> 12VDC electrical energy -> 120v AC electrical energy -> 12VDC electrical energy -> chemical energy

I would personally build a simple microcontroller based PWM that has an ammeter feedback to the processor that determines more or less based on that input(a trimmer on the circuit could tell the computer what amp rating you are looking for).

If you wanted to use an existing PWM you could do the same microcontroller based system but have the computer output to a digital potentiometer that links to the original PWM, that's more complicated tho and doesn't give you the same precision.

Pwm
 

No, because I still have to miss with the dial then to turn down the amps.

And when one of my friends use it, BOOOM. because they didn't know they needed to pay attention to it or whatever.

have a 20AMP 12v constant current running to it is the best way, but I need to know how to do this.

Thanks though.

And I'm sure everone else would agree it would be nice to just tell it to run at 15AMP and be done, or 20 AMP and be done.

I don't think you totally got what I said. It would be a set it and forget it situation. You dial in the amps you want and leave the trimmer there. Every time the computer starts up it looks at the trimmer and says "the trimmer is at 12,345 ohms, I'm told that from 12,000 to 13,000 ohms is 20 amps" and it starts at say 1% duty cycle and increases that until it reaches the 20 amps(and will fluctuate on either side of this depending on the resolution you've set it to look for so 20.00 amps +-0.01 amps), most microcontrollers sample fast enough and the program is simple enough that you should go from 1% to 100% in less than a second(once it's started up anyways).

For just a minimal amount of extra work you could have the computer sample voltage too and calculate a final wattage value. It'll do 20 amps at 12 volts or 17.14 amps at 14 volts (typical car electrical system) to get you 240 watts. This will slow response time down but you'd be hard pressed to make a simple system like this take more than 2 seconds to go from 0-100% duty cycle.

If you know for a fact what amperage rating you want just program it to always look for that and leave out the adjustment.

You do realize that you can just limit the voltage to your bomb by feeding the HHO with a pair of 24 Guage cooper wires for at least 2". Electrical engineers would call this a "resistor". You will be limiting the amount of current to the device.