Tips on Valve adjustment
 

Im about to do a valve ajdustment on my 1994 civic vx anyone have any tips on how i can make this adjustment smoother like if theres anytin i should look out for and what tools to use

the firing order is 1342, what i do is use a long extension for cylinders 3,4,2 to make sure its at tdc (put it in the spark plug hole). when it reaches to its toppest point and will go down if you turn it, your at tdc.

Jam nut tool/Valve lash tool
https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...GL._AA280_.jpg
Best tool for the job, other wise a 10mm combination wrench and a straight screwdriver.

The Helms procedure can be found HERE in pdf format. That PDF has all the specs and procedures, just make sure you follow the ones for the D15Z1.

Hope that helps you out.

its simple as hell on hondas. just knowing and understanding all the procedure you'll fly through it easy. never even used that tool^.
feeler gauge
small screw driver
and wrench

One thing I would make sure of when I do it again is to adjust the valves to the smaller end of the tolerance range. If you do it to the larger end of the tolerance you might get a ticking noise when the engine is running...no harm being done, it just gets annoying. Other than that, it's a real easy job to do on a Honda/Acura. No need to use an extention to find TDC, there should be timing marks for each cylinder on the cam gear.

^ true, adjusting them a little tighter will quite them down a lot.

Please hold the laughter, can someone elaborate on the best way for me to turn/rotate the engine to align tdc marks for each cylinder?

Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt on the front of the engine, or if its a 5 speed, you can put it in gear and bump the engine forward on level ground.

Its always best to turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation- counterclockwise for this Honda

That's exactly how I turned Rusty's crank when I was replacing his timing chain this past spring. I just put a big socket on the bolt attached to the main drive pulley and slowly turned it. If I can turn a small block Chevy V8 with a 1/2 inch socket wrench a Japanese 4 banger should be no problems. If it is difficult to move you may want to remove the spark plugs so there is no compression (I didn't do this on the V-8, YMMV). Make sure you know which way the pulley turns when the engine is running and under no circumstance turn the engine backwards.

-Jay

I haven't heard anybody mention it yet so....

Check (and double check) the valve clearances first. It's not guaranteed that 100% of them will need adjustment. The last time I ran my valves, only 4 out of the 16 needed adjustments. Measuring before you loosen the adjusters up can save you a lot of time in some cases. I usually follow the following sequence: 1)Rotate engine 2)measure valve clearance 3)adjust if necessary 4)re-check valve clearance 5)move on to next valve in sequence. This way you only go through the engine rotation sequence (the most time consuming part imo) one time.

TDC is overrated. I just rotate the engine (in the proper direction, like erik said) until the valve I want to adjust closes, rotate a bit more, then adjust it. Valves are either completely closed, or open, they don't stay partially open for any length of time. Even the vtec-e valve will open slightly when you spin the engine, be sure it closes - then adjust. I also agree - you don't need a fancy tool, box wrench and screwdriver will do fine. Good luck.

Years ago when I did a valve job on Rusty I adjusted the valves while the engine was idling with the valve covers off. The valves were perfect the first time, but there was some spillage onto the exhaust manifold that burned off over the following day or so.

Is it necessary to replace the valve cover gasket on the VTEC-e or is it reusable?

I would never reuse an old valve cover gasket, no matter how good it looked when I took it off. You are asking for leaks.

-Jay

Jay, American V-configuration engines can (and some should) be adjusted while running since the adjuster is also the rocker arm retaining nut and doesn't move with the rocker arm. Hondas and other imports carry the adjuster on one end of the rocker arm itself (usually right above the valve), and can't be adjusted while running.

Replacing valve cover gaskets is always recommended, but I can say that I've gotten lazy or forgetful a time or two and if you clean everything thoroughly you can get away with re-using them once depending on the age. I'd consider this more of an emergency repair or last resort (say if the dealership and parts store are out of gaskets for example) than a normal work practice though.

Unless you break it taking it off, or its brittle, I would reuse the valve cover gasket. I've had my valve cover off twice and reused the same gasket without any leaks. I agree it isn't ideal, if I had a gasket set I would use a new one, but on a Honda it usually works.

@ HAL9000

I've only ever worked on American vehicles. Most were GM V6's & V8's. The closest to foreign cars my family had were Chrysler K cars. I think some of them had Chrysler engines, and I think my Mother's old 1988 LeBaron had a Mitsubishi engine in it. I never had the valve covers off of that LeBaron though. Tough little car. Mom had almost 200,000 miles on it when she sold it, and she sold it to her best friend's son who put another 100K+ on the car till he totaled it.

No problem. I wasn't trying to be snippy or anything. Just making the point so some of the less mechanically inclined viewers wouldn't get confused (Imagine trying to adjust valves when the adjusting screw is bouncing up and down 15 times a second!)

FWIW, even though I've owned an american car or two, I've only ever made valve adjustments on my foreign cars which have to be adjusted off and cold...

Oh yeah; domggg, make sure that when you adjust your valves the engine is stone cold.

Oh no, I didn't take it that way. No problems. I wasn't aware there were engines that can't be adjusted while running.

-Jay

How often do you adjust the valves? What are symptoms for doing this procedure. My 95 VX has 108,000 miles on it at the moment. I have owned it since 98k, When should I do this procedure.

My car is running great at the moment...just wondering if I should mess with it?

If it needs it, you will hear an annoying clicking noise coming from under the valve cover- especially with it idling with the hood open. The clicking will speed up with engine rpm.

Be sure to maintain at least the minimum clearance. Going too tight can lead to burned valves.

The tool TomO showed makes life much easier. search "honda valve tool" on Amazon, you can get them pretty cheap. It makes it much easier to toque down the lock nut without changing the clearance.

Check your owners manual for scheduled maintenance or call the local dealership. It should tell you. I've seen recommendations that vary anywhere from every 3000 miles, to 15000 miles to 50000 miles to never (for hydraulic lifter cars).

I had a Mazda pick-up with a 2.0L and recommended valve adjustments were every 30,000 miles. I always adjusted to the mid range of the clearance because I have seen valves tighten up during operation. It happened to my dad a couple years ago and he had to have a complete valve job. Cost him about $600. if I remember right. If you go to the mid range you will have a few 1/1000's either way.

Its been awhile since people had to worry valve about clearances getting tighter over time- but that would be damaging to the valves (burning/warping).

That must mean that the valve seat is being pounded thinner- which was a concern with using unleaded gas in old engines designed for leaded gas.

Adjust them once a year. It can help you pass smog and give you a smoother idle.

Kinda depends on the design of the engine really. This is a problem with my old (1985) mercedes. Couple it with timing chain wear and you have a recipe for disaster...

Old VW's and Porsche's used to do this as well for the first few thousand miles after a rebuild. The reason is that as the engine "settled in" and all the mating surfaces seated and gaskets compress the overall deck height will change. You won't find that in anything but pushrod engines though.

Valves can also stretch depending on how hard the material or how strong the springs are, but that's probably not an issue in engines under about 15 years old.

For a honda though, I'd say you're safe adjusting them to the minimum clearance.

My old 911 is due for the adjust. What a pain it is with 4 valve covers,,half (intakes)in the engine compartment above and the exhaust valves on your back below. Spendy gaskets too!
The 911 6cyl engine normally expands in width 1/8" from cold to fully warmed up.