2 cyl civic test?
Hi I'm new to the website and have been trying to play catch up on all the mpg tips. I have a luxury that many do not in that I will be changing the motor in my daughters 1.5 93 civic while the old one still runs well. It has 150,000 miles on it but has just recently blew an oil ring. I found a used low mileage motor that will be cheaper to put in than going through the old one. But before I pull it out I thought I'd play a little. I plan on seeing the difference in mpg by disconnecting cylinders. I do not have a scangage but the plan is simple. Fill up run 80 miles or so straight highway. Refill and check mpg. Take it in my shop, remove the rocker arms on the bad cylinder placing a hose clamps with rubber over the oil holes to maintain oil pressure and disconnect the fuel injector. The reason for removing the rocker arms is to keep from confusing the oxygen sensor. Retest mpg. Do the same test again, this time pulling out the spark plug to see the difference between the "air spring" affect and no air spring. Once these tests are complete and I can see which is better - air spring or not, then I will proceed with unhooking another cylinder, the one that is 180 degrees from the one already disconnected making it a two cylinder motor. I know the power loses will be great and the vibrations incredible but why not? What do you all think? Am I missing anything?
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Many ppl here have tried unplugging the injectors with little or no gains but only a few have disabled valves.
Go for it, but try just disabling 1 cylinder first. Speaking from my own experience, acceleration really suffers on a 1.6 liter Honda engine when you disable 1 cylinder. Put your car in the "garage" and start a gas log and show your valve disabling results for all to see. |
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So this has been tried before? I know others have tried disconnecting the injectors but disabling the valves and pulling the plug has been done? I don't want to reinvent the wheel or waste my time if no gains are expected. Can you provide me with a link to the tests? |
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Disabling the valves and pulling the plug will be what makes this worthwhile.
Please take a look at this thread: https://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=7400&page=2 There's an intense discussion going on in there about very similar stuff, and real experimental data from you could answer and close it once and for all. |
I can only forsee getting worse mileage. Even if you were to disable the valve acuation of those 2 cylinders (I would attempt #2 and #3), you will still have pumping / friction losses from those cylinders (even with the spark plugs out).
I just don't see where you are going to benifit, perhaps reducing pumping losses past the throttle plate? (As it should require to be opened more) |
Hmm...I wonder what would happen if you entirely removed those pistons and connecting rods. Would the resulting extreme imbalance cause stuff to fly apart?
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My question was, by disabling 2 cylinders, how will that improve your FE? As far as I can see, you aren't really reducing weight, pumping losses, friction losses, thermal losses, etc. Maybe there is something I'm missing? Would still be fun to try! Nothing wrong with a glorious explosion. If you have some serious spare time, you could attempt to cut out those 2 cylinders, and then weld the crank, block, cam, head, manifolds back together. =) |
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I didn't realize that the connecting rod is required to maintain oil pressure, but wouldn't it need to remain pointing up? If you cut it short, isn't it going to spin around freely? I haven't been inside a crankcase since I did a 5hp Kawasaki in high school so it's hard to remember some of this stuff... |
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Remove the rockers to the pistons you want to disable and pull the plug., disconnect the injectors of course.
No valve activity will eliminate and intake or exhaust. The only pumping losses you would still have would not be related to air moving in or out of the engine. There would be a slight restriction to airflow through the plug holes, so you could open the holes up some. if you added a tube between the two dead cylinder plug holes it would keep the noise down. I had a 59 Austin Healey Sprite (bugeye) that had two burnt valves (think they were exhaust). Compression was less than 35 psi per cylinder with about 1/5th of the valve head gone. It ran but it didn't have enough power to climb any kind of significant grade. My brother managed to blow the tranny before I figured out whether the mileage was better that the normal 32 mpg. This was in 1968 but I do remember I could get it up to a decent speed. 1 liter engine in about 1200 pounds of car, normally it would do about 82 MPH max. regards gary |
Here you go.
https://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=6137 I should have held the cam followers up with hose clamps so they did not contact the cam. Maybe next time. ;) The V8 on 4 cylinders was a lot more practical. As for leaving rods off of an engine you can do that and cover the hole in the crank with a hose clamp. In this case you would want to make an odd fire engine for best balance. That is leave off 1 & 2 or 3 & 4. I am not recommending this just saying that is the way I would do it. By all means have some fun if you want to. No pain no glory. :) |
he if its anything like my s-10 when 2 of the cylinders were misfiring a few times last winter, you will NOT want to try to pull out on a busy road... i suggest taking it around your neighborhood and gunning it to see how much power you have left, i could barely get going and had to pull over and rev it to evaporate moisture that condensate on the ign module...
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