Service manual

https://www.redpepperracing.com/technical/main.php

Salvage parts

www.car-part.com

UPDATE on CRX issues
 

Okay, I have had my CRX in the shop - a mechanic who is honest and trustworthy - worth the 1 HOUR each way by a LONG shot.

FIRST: "Hunting" issue is gone. Fuel pump replaced along with short rubber hose and assorted rubber that came with it. Problem: lack of adequate fuel pressure. Nylon sock filter was dissolving too - may have contributed. New fuel pump - full power, no "hole" when I pressed on the gas.

Second: fuel float is getting stuck on the baffle in the tank - this prevents fuel gauge from going up & down when fuel sloshes around in tank. Previous owner said that he hit a bump and it started sticking. Mechanic will be removing bump from fuel tank - will fix issue.

Mechanic is still looking at light on dash issue - sensor in door is his guess - he is thorough.

Tach issue not fixed - still figuring that out.

I need a vacuum diagram for the CRX (1989 DX) if anyone knows where to find it. Mechanic has requested - lines plugged off, cruise control (aftermarket) not working, no vacuum leaks after testing. If you can help with this I would appreciate it. I'll likely post another thread about it, too.

'91, but it should be very nearly the same, if not identical.
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...c35aab4a8c.png
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...19742f48bb.png

Found the exact vacuum diagram in an '89 manual in previous thread - forgot to update here. Thanks for taking the time to look it up for me, however! It is appreciated. This site is often more informative than Honda specific forums. The best thing about this site is the people!

Update
 

Okay - I've changed mechanics. The fuel pump issue is resolved. The CRX now either has a problem overheating once it's warmed up OR it has a problem turning on - not sure which. New mechanic is better at troubleshooting.

Had a problem with turning it on - this is getting fixed as many of the leads into the fusebox were corroded. The car is 22 years old after all, and it was on the original fuel pump, etc.

I'll keep you guys updated. I miss my CRX.

The fuel pump relays in older civics, crxs and Integras are notorious for this problem. There is a weak solder joint in the relay that sometimes opens up when the interior of the car is hot.

On my 87 Integra, this relay gave me problems about 3 times a year (usually in hot weather) it would crank over fine but would not start. The telltale sign was that I did not hear the fule pump whirring for 1-2 seconds when I turned the key to "on" and the "PGMFI" light on the dash did not come on when the key was turned to the on position (it was supposed to come on with the fuel pump).

My solution was to simply reach under the dash and tap the fuel pump relay- then I would hear the fuel pump prime and the car would start fine.
The car never died on me on the road, it just refused to restart after it was shut off.

The real solution is to re-solder the PCB joints in the Main Relay (it's actually two relays and a few resistors and diodes), or simply replace the unit.

Ground cable issues are also very common. The construction of the stock cables is open to the elements, so the wire simply corrodes and falls apart. If you're getting weird error codes from the ECU (like the ELD unit whose monolithic design has no moving parts to wear out and is fairly well protected from heat cycling, vibration and corrosive compounds) or a bunch of error codes all at once, replace the ground cables.

Another semi-common issue these days is the ignition switch. They've started dying off thanks to 20 years of normal wear. If the engine cranks over fine and sounds like it's going to catch but dies as soon as you release the key, disassemble, clean and/or replace the ignition switch assembly. The switch unscrews from the back of the ignition key cylinder thing... Just be sure to unplug the electrical connectors before you start playing with the switch itself.

Great read guys. I want to replace my grounding cables on the '92 VX. At least one anyway. My 'best' is solid on the transmission side, but the other I have is exposed at the ends and looks super dirty, somewhat flimsy and maybe not even in the best location? At least the one on the transmission is a thicker cable. I even tried brake parts cleaner on the ends to get the grime off this other, but it didn't look any better.

Below is a picture of one of the ends(sorta blurry sry), its actually connected to that plate above the idler pulley on the front side of the engine block, though there is another location to screw right into the block instead. I wonder if that would be better?

https://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7...ensionbolt.jpg

Also, the leads to the fuse box under the hood on the other side; there with the connectors all stacked together in front of the battery, look nice and dirt-filled. Is there an electrical cleaner that is safe to try to remove grime from those guys? I'd like to by pulling them all apart and spraying around the wires leading into the back and checking the pins for each connector as well.

I think brake cleaner should be fine.

A dremmel with a wire wheel would work well for removing corrosion.

You can always add additional ground straps if you are worried about the existing ones being sufficient.

If you just want to replace yours, most auto parts stores have "battery cables" with a hole on each end (made to attach a starter to a separate mounted starter solenoid) that should work.

If you unplug the exposed, dirty connectors under the hood, you can use dielectric grease to help reduce future corrosion of the terminals.

Re: Troubleshooting the CRX
 

I have fixed the fuel pump. The sending unit is still a little wonky, so it reads full most of the time. I'm going to have it re-wired. I've got a new (CORRECT) fuel pump and a new sending unit. The car no longer dies at a stop sign.

I've replaced all of the brake hoses. Not only does the car now go, it also stops. 1989 brake hoses just don't work very well in 2011.

And I've figured out the issue with the tachometer AND the vehicle dying when it's hot & you shut it off. Apparently the ignition module is the culprit to both of these. $85 for a new ignition module should fix this issue as well. There appears to have been a recall on the ignition module. I'm going to check with Honda next week to find out if I can get a free ignition module. If not, I'll look online to see if I can get one cheaper than $85 for a brand-new module. Anyone know of a good place to get this cheaply?