In the 80's and early 90's Chrysler put a 2.2 turbo and NT (or NA, naturally aspirated) in evrything. I had an Omni that was an NA 2.2 and it ran good but it was a slug. I had an 86 Daytona turbo Z with the 2.2 and a turbo, it was fairly quick. I now have a 92 Daytona with the intercooled DOHC turbo and it's pretty quick. Chrysler put that 2.2 in freakin everything. Good motor, poochy without some help.

mrjetskey,

VW is making a diesel-electric hybrid car that is supposed to get 70 or so MPG. it works on a similar concept that you were describing (I think). they are putting it in a golf or a rabbit. not sure if it will make it to the states. emissions suck (laws I mean). I think that is the plan though, for it to come to the states.

We had several K cars with the 2.2 liter engines. Those were fine, but the 88 caravan with the 2.2 in it was a complete dog. Dad had that thing worn out at 70,000 miles. Mom had an 88 LeBaron that had the larger 2.6 (I'm pretty sure it was a 2.6, it was bigger than the standard K car engine). That car would move, and it wasn't even a turbo.

-Jay

The 2.6 was a Mitsubishi engine.

Turbo would be a great way to go with a smaller displacement engine. A perfect example is the Dodge (Mercedes) Sprinter Van.

In a small car I would like to see a 1-1.5 liter diesel with some of Gayle Banks magic for power, while you could get great economy when loads were small.


regards
gary

banks did a diesel dakota that broke a land speed record for diesel trucks.

he does have magic when it comes to diesels.

Yeah, that truck went 222 mph, and got 23.6 mpg. . .PULLING A TRAILER.
https://www.autobloggreen.com/2007/05...e-performance/

thats nuts. totally insane. but from what i read it seems like you need a diesel to actually get more FE from a turbo.. I still dont seem to understand why a celica gt4 would take as much as gas my honda odessy...

I like the hard hitting diesels.

I went to a dyno day with my dodge (gas engine) and they had a bunch of diesel trucks there. the heavy hitter pushed 809hp and 1416ft/lbs. his motor was far from stock. he was running twin turbos at somewhere around 80 psi of boost. converted it over to studs for the heads as he blew out the head bolts before. also he was using water injection to keep the things cool.

there was probably a lot more than that done to it but that is what I know. I am sure he was using forged pistons and other heavy duty inards to handle the pressure. he was having problems with his tires rippling on the dyno as well even though he was at max sidewall pressure as well.

he sent me a video clip of him running a qtr against a mach-1 mustang. he beat it and ran an 11.5 in the qtr. not bad for a 3 ton truck.

2 things to consider between a N/A and turbo motor. One is negative, the other is positive.....

1. exhaust restriction. The manifold is normally very short, creating restriction, plus the restriction in the body of the turbo, the restriction of the propeller, and any addition angles and turns that the exhaust must overcome to exit the into the exhaust system, plus the lost velocity that was used to turn the turbo hot side. Negative
2. Heat. Compressing air raises the temperature, hence the use in performance applications of an "Intercooler" (aftercooler), to remove heat. The additional heat on a turbo application, regardless of the the boost pressure, helps to atomize the fuel better, for a more efficient combustion efficiency. This is a built in hot air intake, so to speak. Positive

Ultimately, The heat from the turbo should help to overcome the restriction of exhaust, but it is a tight battle.

I have driven a turbo charger car for years also a 2 litre turbo, I thought I knew how to get the best FE but I didn't, I always assumed the turbo had to be in its efficiency range which on my engine would be 4.5k rpms, bad for FE obviously.

I honestly believe I have figured it out now, I am gentle in 1st and 2nd gear and I open the throttle a fair amount, not WOT but not chocking the intake either, in 3rd gear I look at my vacuum gauge and make sure that its at 0 or atmospheric pressure, the engine speed is low and the turbo begins to spin at 1.5k but I change gear before or on 2000rpms as this is the most efficient range in my fuel table, so I basically keep my throttle open but the engine speed below 2000rpms, what ever the turbo can do in that range has helped my FE because I got 160 miles from 3.7 UK gallons or 17.1 litres of fuel, when before I was getting 80 miles from the same fuel!

Keep the engine speed down but get the turbo working is the trick, if you can lean your fuel system I recommended that as well, turbo cars run extra rich under boost conditions, I hope to experiment with this idea this week.