Where did you find 0W-30? Every time I'm in an auto parts store or WalMart, all I find is 5W-30. Like you, I'm also a RI resident.

Wal-Mart carries 0w30 here in Va. I just helped a friend do his oil change 2 weeks ago and we bought Mobil1 0w30 @ Wal-Mart.

-Jay

I've never seen any brand in 0W30. Even if Mobil carried it, I wouldn't buy it. I've been boycotting Exxon products since the Valdez oil spill in 1989 (and no Mobil products since they merged w/ Exxon). They never took appropriate responsibility for the spill...in fact they fought punitive awards until they were recently reduced from $2.5 billion (originally $5 billion) to $500 million for the approximate 30,000 victims of the spill.

theHolyCow bought Castrol Syntec European Formula synthetic 0W-30, and I'm wondering where he bought it.

Mobil1 is the only 0w oil I have ever seen on a store shelf. Mobil1 is a good oil, and its the only thing I've put in my Buick since the engine was replaced years ago.

-Jay

It's my experience that conventional vs sythetic in the mpg sense is a wash. Not enough difference to pay the extra cost.

Modern conventional oils will go 5k miles easily, and you could go longer with a calm demeanor if you get an analysis done at 7.5k and longer if the oil is holding up. It's a one-time $25 cost for peace of mind.

The key, rather than conv vs syn, is viscosity. While 0w-30 is 0w a low temps, it's still a 30w at operating temp. There are low-visc 30w's and high-visc 30w's. The lowest visc conventional is Havoline Deposit Shield. The lowest visc "synthetic" is Castrol. This is according to a once-widespread viscosity chart available at the BITOG site.

There are actual synthetic oils (not the super-refined conventional oil that calls itself synthetic nowadays) that can increase mpgs. Royal Purple comes to mind. But, their cost is much higher. Extended change intervals would be a must.

I suppose, at the bottom line, it would depend on whether cost/benefit is your goal or whether pure MPGS at whatever cost is your target. My vehicles aren't at all tempermental so I can get away with using about whatever I feel like pouring into them.

I'm working through my oil stash of various brands/visc's. When they're all used up I'll stick with Havoline DS.

Of course, that's out the window in the wife's Prius that'll be here in a couple of weeks. I'll have to start stocking 0w-20 in the stash. My old (now $2000) CRX gets 88% of the MPGs at less than 10% of the cost. But, wife gets what wife wants...most of the time.

I am glad to see someone elce besides me boycotting mobil/exxon for those and other reasons.

Anyway, I have been useing Valvoline Syn in 5w30 in one of my vehicles. I havn't noticed any measureable difference in fuel economy using syn over dino but I feel comfortable with it's better lube properties and my 5,000 mile change intervals. The cost is not that much more depending where I get it.

I was contemplating trying 0w20 recommended for the newer version of my engine but not comphy with that weight oil. I havn't noticed 0w30 syn anywhere. Maybe I havn't really looked.

I am using just 5w 30 dino in the cutlass and it got 30mpg on my last highway trip. It has a lot of miles on it so I will probably keep using dino in it.

Pep Boys in Warwick had that particular 0W-30. When you get to the oil aisle, it's the first one on the right-side top shelf.

I'm pretty sure I've seen 0W-30 and 0W-40 in WalMart but probably only Mobil brand, which won't work for you.

Yup, I haven't tested for that but I wouldn't believe someone who said otherwise. I don't have a choice between synth or dino; the car is a lease and under warranty, so I have to comply with the manufacturer's recommendations -- which require VW-approved oil, all of which is synth.

I do have a choice in my truck, which is about to get some WalMart "Supertech" brand High Mileage 5W-30 dinosaur juice. People seem pretty happy with it and that level of care has brought the truck to a smooth-running 175,000 miles.

This is the subject of my question. I was trying to decide if it was worth a few more dollars for the lower weight oil. If the warm weight was lower then I wouldn't have to question it, but it's the cold weight that is lower and I couldn't decide...

Cost/benefit (or TCO), combined with not having to take the time to go back to a couple stores again. I ended up putting in the more expensive 0W-30, maybe we'll see in the long run if it has any effect...though I really don't have enough data to compare well.

I think your truck takes 5 Quarts... How about 0w28 (4 Qt 0w30, 1 Qt 0w20) or 0w26 (3 Qt 0w30, 2 Qt 0w20 ?

-Jay

Heh, I'm not willing to risk extra internal wear in the truck...I'm hoping to squeeze a lot more miles out of it. Manufacturer says 5W-30, I'll put in 5W-30.

I had over 300,000 miles on my old 74 Chevy when I sold it for more money than I paid for it (after driving it for 3 - 4 years and putting about 60,000 miles on it.) I miss that truck. That thing got 28 MPG highway. I was really excited when I bought Rusty. I was thinking man, imagine how far I can go on dual tanks! Then I found out that the 86 Chevy with a 305 needed dual tanks to go as far as the 74 Chevy with a 350 did on one. The only mods I made to that truck were I converted it to an electronic ignition from a 75 Chevy van, platinum plugs, aftermarket cruise control, and I flipped the bonnet on the air cleaner upside down and drove it like my grandfather on a Sunday drive. Oh, and the A/c was cold enough to frost up the windows if it was left on Max.

I'm switching the beast to 0W on the next change. I don't think you'll do any damage switching to a 0w.

-Jay