the 1st number is 'section width' of the tires measured at the widest point. I don't know if it's mounted or not but it's definitely NOT tread width. the cheapest craptastic tires where I work have OVER and inch less tread width vs the same numeric size high quality tire (in the 215-235ish range. gonna me more with bigger tires, less with smaller ones).

I'd go with those tires, oughta be OK but keep the pressures on the high side to compensate for the narrower section having more sidewall flex to acheive the same ground contact patch

At that price, you really can't go wrong. The Hakkapelitta-2s I had on the STi were $900 including the mount and balance. They were T-rated (118 MPH) and did just fine at a sustained 110 MPH. I didn't want to push it. ;)

I second the concept of narrower being better when it comes to snow however. The Hakks were 225mm width and floated/hydroplaned horribly on slush.

I use 155/80/13s for my winter tires. They are Winterforce studables, but this is the second season I've run them without studs. My GPS says my MPH is very close if not right-on with these tires compared to my 175/70/13s I use in the non-cold seasons (which are also not the correct size for the VX).

I think the thing with studs is that you don't want to drive more than about 50mph on dry pavement with them or the studs get hot and start falling out. At least that's the way they used to be.

Er, go back two posts and review.

Seriously, 110 mph sustained for over a couple of hours (with occassional slowing for traffic etc.). Never lost a stud doing that. The number one boneheaded thing that people do to rip studs out is turn their front wheels one way or the other while stopped! ALWAYS make sure the vehicle is moving when steering on studded tires.