Help me GasSavers!
 

My $25 Cherry Picker can't even pick me up any more. The jack finally gave out, which isn't surprising considering it's age, and the fact that I was pushing it near it's rated capacity. Anyway, I could, and probably will, just pick up a replacement jack for $50-70, but I'd really like to fix this little puppy and continue using it in some fashion. Does anyone here know how to disassemble these? I figure I can take the blown seals with me to hardware stores/shops/etc and piece together a replacement set, but I'm not sure what to take apart and how. I'd rather not break something I could fix just because I don't know what I'm doing. :thumbup:

I was thinking about that, but given the going labor rate, I may only be saving myself a few bucks. I'll definitely look into it!

Meanwhile you can use a $15 come-along and a strong rafter or branch.

https://g2images.auctionwagon.com/ctc...19aa-28902.jpg

Damn shipping! I'll probably grab one of those anyway, but would two rafters support the front end of a 2k lb car at a 45+ degree angle? I was thinking about doing that in the first place, but I'd rather not explain to my mom how I took down part of her garage.

The rafters will hold as long as someone is videotaping it :rolleyes:

Crap, no VC. :(

Hydraulic bottle jacks?

Pretty much... Any ideas on disassembly?

what are the specs on that ram? (what does your cherry picker look like???) I have a 3 ton ram like this from Northern Tool, and it seems to work really well, of course I only have it in a cider press... they also have some 8 ton rams

How is it malfunctioning?

Will it pump up without a load on it and then leaks down when you have a load on it? In that case it is probablty the seal on the bottom of that long shaft. Loosen that big nut on top and the long shaft should slide out of the top of that tube. There should be an o ring type seal on the bottom that you can replace. Sometimes you can find a generic one that will fit- if it has a cupped shape then you'll have to order it from a hydraulic supply company.

If it won't pump up (extend) at all even without a load on it, then it is likely the small shiny pumping rod mechanism/check valve. It might just be clogged with sludge.

Just carefully take it all apart- they are fairly simple. Don't loose the steel ball under the bleed valve.

Hydraulic seals are usually pretty cheap- so wear old greasy clothes when you go to the hydraulics shop and bring in the long rod and old seal with you if you need the piston seal- they will need to take some measurements oof it. At many places you won't be overcharged if you look like you can't afford it.

Maybe try a diet :D

Erik is right on I'd say. Hydraulic stuff is simple, but "cleanliness is next to Godliness" certainly holds true!

Yeah... I've been getting porky recently. :D Anyway, the jack will not jack up and lock under load, it'll pop up and slide back down, and even when I jack it up under no load, it'll slide back down very slowly after I stop pumping it. If I jack for a good amount of time with a load, fluid will start coming out of the top seal and fill port. I'll look around for shops I can stop by the next time I go down the hill! The ram has no specs, but the cherry picker is a half ton.

Sounds like the bottom seal on the ram. Loosen that big nut on top and pull out the long rod or pump it up until it pops out.

Methinks a guy has to be a fool to get under a heavy mass supported by a "rebuilt" hydraulic jack...rebuilt by someone with no experierce whatsoever!
And...supported by wooden roof members? Ever hear of a knot breaking? Knots are a weak link in wood! As are cuts / notches / etc.
Come-a-longs are for pulling or lifting light(er) loads...not for committing suicide! -Ted Hart

Yeah... I was weary of using a come-a-long, and since I got a great deal on a practically new 8 ton flat bottom jack ($30) I'm just going to go bug my uncle to use his drill press and make an adapter/bushing for the bigger jack to bolt up to the cherry picker. And, I can rebuild the smaller 3 ton flat bottom for other uses... In terms of use, I'll never go under a car unless it's on jack stands or in this case (unless it's an oil change, because I can reach the plug w/o going under), four rims with a two by four across them, under the lift points. So rebuilt, new, or haunted is never an issue.

i would not use 2 rafters to lift a 2000lbs car. a point load of 1000lbs on wood isnt a good idea. why is it at a 45 degree angle?

Welding on a gas tank too! :D I figure 45 degrees since that should correspond to a 1000lb load on the rafter/s or half ton jack, and, like you said, 1000lbs over a square inch of wood isn't exactly safe.

hmm unrelated, but would I be able to use a come-along and the rafters for a smallish Honda Engine?

red91sit- The best way to test your idea is to use a thick board (a 4x4) between at least 2 or even 4 rafters and find a 200 pound friend to slowly apply their weight to the board- if they start creaking, then its too much.

TBH, someone working under a heavy mass supported by a brand new jack, or one rebuilt by someone with lots of experience, would also be a fool. The seal could go at any moment, and you will never know when.

I'm sure most people do it, but *always* use a 'permanent' means of supporting the car, e.g. axle stands etc, which you put under the car once you have jacked it up. This way, you don't trust your life to some tiny, cheap hydraulic seals.