I would be careful about the opening size around the manifold. you don't want to choke the engine down by not giving a large enough opening. that was also a big reason that I didn't close off the bottom of mine too.

if the airbox had two openings in it, you could just cover one of them with aluminum tape. I am not sure if your hose splits or if there are two inlets in your airbox. the tape thing is easy and if you are still working on your house, you probably still have some of it laying around. if you have a split hose, then disregard this part.

Only one entrance to the box itself. It's a split hose. It is a good fraction of the other hose's size, so I think you're right about not blocking it if it's another inlet.

I don't think this tube actually is an air inlet. It goes to a box next to the wheel well. This box has no air inlets in it. At least not that I can find. I peeled back the wheel well panel and nothing. It's hard to examine, but I can't see any with my mirror or feel any by touch. The only thing I can think of is it's a place for condensation to go? But wouldn't there be drain? I need to explore more.

I may stick my leaf blower in there and see where air comes shooting out. Not sure my flexible tubing would take such abuse, though, so I better use the fan I took off a dishwasher instead.

The fan revealed a very tiny hole in the bottom of the box. I think it is for condensation after all. Does this make sense to anyone? Getting way outside my direct experience, so I'm just speculating.

I mistakenly thought you meant the lower inlet before. The space around the edges of my intake is pretty good. The picture was take before I wired it and doesn't show the spacing well anyway. It's got more intake area than the diameter of the pipe by a good margin, because I erred that way. Wish I could be a little more precise about it. Maybe I should close it on the side next to the hose itself and open it more on the other end, or cooler air could crowd in.

Just did some errands with my WAI. The ducting gets warm, but not too hot to touch by any stretch. Need to get a thermometer to place in the air box. If there was a reduction in power, I couldn't tell.

Picked up a 500 lb boiler with my trailer today. I left the WAI hooked up but had the tools necessary to remove it if needed. Discretion being the better part of valor, I avoided the highway in favor of the back roads on the way home with it (about 75 miles or so). My new GPS helped a lot with this. :) It was definitely less responsive, but between the roads I'd never traveled and towing a load which I almost never do, I couldn't gauge if the WAI was sapping power. I didn't feel the need to remove it, so that's something I guess. Curious what the IAT will read when I get my SG2. Averaged 36 mpg, but I only had 84.1 miles on the tank, since I wanted that unusual event out of my data as quickly as possible. Only ran 265.7 miles with the WAI without the boiler, but 75 of that was still with the empty trailer and that's not many miles for a reading. Got over 43 mpg, though. Definitely need more data to be certain anything's happening.

I got to show it off a couple times, though. :thumbup: :D

I just realized I was considering 36 mpg to be "bad", for a car with a highway EPA rating of 32 mpg, while towing a heavy trailer!! That's what hypermiling does to you - raises your standards.

I've shown mine off a few times myself. most people think that I am crazy but others have this look of awe like they are looking at the "BACK TO THE FUTURE" flux capacitor.

I tell people that it does cut off horsepower a bit but since I have set my scangauge to horsepower, I haven't seen it over 60 but once (this is due to me keeping my revs low). my car is rated 115 so to cut off 20 or even 30 hp doesn't really affect my usual driving hp range.

as far as I know, the scangauge shows crank horsepower not wheel horsepower. I think there was a discussion about that but I am too lazy to look it up (plus I am supposed to be working right now)

My mechanic mostly thinks I'm crazy, but he's still interested. His tire suppliers have convinced him over inflating tires is a bad idea (even if within the rated pressure), so he hassles me about it.

LOL, Jiffy Lube hastles me about putting 70 PSI in the tires on my truck, because a GMC K1500 is only supposed to have 32 PSI... (For those of you that don't know, I have 1 ton truck tires on my 1/2 ton pickup.) Last time the guy that puts the air in the tires was in the bathroom when I said "70 PSI", and I walked out to the truck and immediately knew the tires were low. He drove it out riding on the sidewalls, but its 32 PSI, so it must be right, LOL...