Need help like crazy - Code 14 - Car running poorly

[mustninty]

92 civic dx hatch auto, 92 JDM D15B VTEC-E manual swappe din. Ran fine for 3k miles after swap and now throwing a code 14 and it has a rough idle and stumbling badly, pretty much undrivable. I have a list below of what I have tried below. On thing I have read over and over and also am looking for info on ismy swap has a FITV even though everybody says I should not because its the VX motor. Is this because its a JDM? Can I ditch it? Any help would be much appreciated.

Replaced IACV
Replaced FITV
Checked the new plugs, wires, cap and rotor to make sure they are not broken
Timing checked with light
Checked to insure injectors and IACV valve were working with multimeter
Cleaned throttle body and IM for leaks and cleaned
Made sure throttle body butterfly is closed at idle
Made sure injectors spraying fuel
Fuel filter pretty new

[benfrogg]

A little googling brings me to making sure you've got the right plugs and make sure there are no vacuum leaks. I check vacuum on a warm engine with intake cleaner sprayed at all hoses, nipples, joints, gaskets, etc. I use the "throttle body cleaner" as opposed to carb cleaner to keep my rubber happy.

The USA/CAN model VX came with the D15Z1, which I've heard is similar but not identical to the motor you have.

How's the 02? Are you using the L1H1 or L2H2 or Standard SG335? It should have 5 wires going to it as it is a wideband.
PCV?

Can we also assume you are pulling the ECU fuse between tests to make sure the code has been cleared?
B

[mustninty]

I'm using E3 plugs which from what I have read are great plugs for this swap and many people have used them without issue. They are ungappable. I have checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner around every part i can think of. The O2 sensor is brand new, its a bosch 02 not sure about the code. It is a 5 wire. The PCV was cleaned out and is in good condition. And yes fuse has been pulled along with battery disconnected several times. More then just the CEL, the car itself is running horribly. The car has been running very well with this setup for about 3k miles and then started running badly on its own, not after any changes.

[add|ct]

Originally Posted by mustninty

I'm using E3 plugs which from what I have read are great plugs for this swap and many people have used them without issue. They are ungappable. I have checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner around every part i can think of. The O2 sensor is brand new, its a bosch 02 not sure about the code. It is a 5 wire. The PCV was cleaned out and is in good condition. And yes fuse has been pulled along with battery disconnected several times. More then just the CEL, the car itself is running horribly. The car has been running very well with this setup for about 3k miles and then started running badly on its own, not after any changes.

Does it idle fine on cold starts too, or are the symptoms when hot or cold?

You could always try throwing a bottle of Red Line SI-1 system cleaner into the gas tank, if for some reason this was suddenly a bad tank of gas(contaminated with water etc?)?

Try getting some stock plugs, the correct ones, for this engine. Pull the E3 plugs(not sure which those are???) and take some pictures if they don't look brand new. Use OE p/n spark plugs and see if things change. Try re-setting the ECU(pull the backup 7.5A fuse).

IF the bad idle symptom is when cold, perhaps the Fast Idle Valve has loosened enough(mis-adjusted) enough to affect the idle during startup; fast idle?

IF it's only when the vehicle is at operating temp/hot idle then it could really be a number of things else, I suppose. Including ignition related, EVEN with the new parts as you stated.

What were the brands of the 'new' parts? Is there a warranty on them?

I know you said you made sure they 'werent broken', but did you do the check from plugs back to igniter and ignition coil to make sure it's all good? You verified not just visibly, but tested the ignition parts?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY

[mustninty]

It started a couple weeks back to only throw a code when the car warmed up, it now is on from the moment you start the car. I ran seafoam through it in case it was bad gas and bottle through intake in case of intake clogs. i can try some stock style plugs. I have pulled the battery cable off for a day to make sure the ECU was completely reset. I have tried a new and the original FIT valve.

[benfrogg]

Oh, so this started recently, not just after the swap. That's helpful info. Rough running like that could be a failed/failing injector. If that were the case, one spark plug would come out incredibly white while the others looked rich. That's an easy enough test to try out. I know you said you checked them all for spray, but that doesn't mean they are all even. The plugs will tell the story.

When you say you checked the plugs, wires, etc, did you spray them with water from a mist bottle? Have you opened the hood in the dead of night with the motor running? I've had bad wires before that didn't show until it was really dark.

I'm still voting bad gas. More correctly, wet gas. The only thing I know fixes that is a bottle of isopropyl alcohol "Dry Gas." I totally forgot about it. Here in Maine, it happens all the time. Either the gas station's fault, condensation's fault, etc. Are you still on the original tank of fuel since the problems started? That gas could take a tank or two to work it's way out if it's wet.

That's all I can think of for now.
B

[mustninty]

Pulled and checked the plugs, they were all evenly dirty, not very because they are new.Wires, I have tried a second known good set. I have topped off the tank since this started happening and it just seems to be getting worse, I don't know if it's related or not. I will throw some dry gas in. Did not think of that.

[msweatherhead]

Did you check your EGR ports on the intake manifold,can cause similar problems. Good luck