All sheet metal, as I actually have an easier time getting that than coroplast. Hoping it doesn't rattle, or vibrate too badly, or make the engine overheat. Monitoring temp is going to be a prob. The car has a gauge, not an "engine is hot" idiot light, but the gauge doesn't work about 99% of the time. Some continuity prob. I'm leaving the lower openings unblocked in hopes that will prevent overheating, and that if it does get too hot, I'll be able to tell from other hints, like, oh, antifreeze shooting out the front or some such.
As to making this a real experiment, that won't be easy. I can't use a Scangauge on this car-- too old. Interpolating from gallons added at a fill up seems too uncertain, with so many variables, but at least easy to do. Perhaps a roll test on some empty bit of road (might have a chance at 3 AM), where I accelerate to a certain speed (70 MPH I suppose) and then at some marked spot start a "cold coast" (engine off coast, tranny in neutral) and see how far the car rolls with and without the grill block? Or I can do it the lazy way: forget trying to measure the effects and just take it on faith that it works.
Bang up job. My favorite is the brackets too. The rectilinear design of that Celica generation lends itself to clean mods, and you exploited it to the max. If you have rattle and can isolate the location, then you can probably put some kind of rubbery gromit to cancel it out.
One problem with starting out with a metal grill block is that if the car starts overheating on a hot summer day, you can't just hop out with a box cutter and make or enlarge an air opening in the grill block, as you can with Coroplast or tape. I would tend to make my first grill block of an easily modifiable while-out-on-the-road material, then once I have experienced my hottest summer temps and determined how much grill opening I actually need, make a permanent grill block of a more durable material. My initial grill block was clear packing tape.
If you start to overheat, turn off the AC, open the windows, go about 40 mph, and turn on the heat full blast. I doubt you'll boil over. Then decide if you need extra vent holes. A sliding shutter arrangement could be very slick, especially if you could control it with a remote cable.
Reality is merely an illusion, albeit a very persistent one. - Albert Einstein
What would be even slicker would be to install an electronic controller that would measure the temperature of the coolant coming out of the radiator and then adjust that shutter opening to maintain the coolant temperature at the temperature you have the controller set for.
In terms of automation, I say run a solenoid, like the ones that pop doors, with the radiator fan switch on your spring loaded shutters. Normally, the force of the spring keeps 'em closed, and when the fan turns on, the door solenoid/s pulls the metal cable/s attached to them to open 'em up. Or just use a metal cable run into the cab, that's what I was planning on doing. KISS.
Originally Posted by FormulaTwo
I think if i could get that type of FE i would have no problem driving a dildo shaped car.