You frequently see multiple part numbers like that on Majestic's site. When I ordered a replacement front wheel bearing, they had 3 different numbers. Take a look at the prices - They're all exactly the same. And not -.99 or -.95 the same, but $11.75, along side prices like $2.57 and $3.13.
If someone has a pic of inside the fat end of that "elbow", I'll be more likely to believe. I just pulled the valve off my 'Z6, and it has the same inlet/outlet proportions, but a more angular body:
Maybe the elbow has a simple restrictor in it as opposed to a spring-loaded plunger like a proper PCV valve. Maybe there's supposed to be a restrictor in the valve cover breather tube, intentionally reducing the crankcase pressure. Whatever it is, the PCV system has to have something to restrain air flow, or you'll get a high idle like Ryland described.
This is the VX PCV valve part number. It has no spring loaded check valve in it. The VX PCV has a fixed orifice design (Google it if you don't believe me). Once I tried putting in a DX/EX PCV valve in my VX and the VX did not like the DX/EX PCV valve at all!
If Ryland has turned the idle screw on the EACV all the way (in or out) to get the lowest rpm possible, the pcv valve issue would not be enough to cause the high idle he's having. A really good mechanic could determine what's causing it but that costs $$$$$$$$. Not really worth it.
Just save your money and buy a used Prius some day and make a DIY plug-in hybrid system for it. I might just do that when my VX bites the proverbial dust. Shouldn't be too hard with the right tools and research. But, as Bon Scott once so famously screamed ---- HIGH VOLTAGE!!!!!
the pcv valve issue would not be enough to cause the high idle he's having. A really good mechanic could determine what's causing it but that costs $$$$$$$$. Not really worth it.
Ok... sure enough, that's a different part number than is printed on my valve: 17130-PK1-0030.
While I agree that the 900 rpm idle issue may not be related to the PCV, the 1500 rpm idle issue surely is. Simply squeezing the rubber hose between the PVC valve/restrictor/elbow/whatever and the intake manifold should prove that. If the idle drops, the valve is letting too much air into the manifold.
As both DarbyWalters and I both suggested, vacuum leaks can be found with an appropriate aerosol spray - a good mechanic isn't necessary, just a little intuition and/or dumb luck.
With normal PCV valves you can hear something rattling inside if you shake it when it's all cleaned out with carb cleaner. You can also blow into the one side, and can't blow into the other side. I tried both of these on my VX valve, and both lead me to believe nothing is inside of it.
I guess your new home-made PCV valve could be allowing too much air in. The OEM VX one does have a skinnier diameter elbow than the non-VX ones, so the hole you opened up by gutting the one you had installed probably needs to be restricted I think. THis is just a theory, so I could be wrong.
On the never-ending quest for better gas mileage...
Let's say that if the proper PCV valve for Ryland's VX is used, he gets a 1500 rpm idle. That's definitely not good. The use of a non-standard PCV to lower the rpm to 900 is not good either because that might sludge up the engine over time and might lead to an "explosive" conclusion if the valve clogs due to crankcase vapor/blowby that does not get reintroduced into the engine and burned again.
Considering that old VX's are not worth very much in a real sense, it's just not worth it to sink too much money in them.
However, I must admit that I get a kick out of seeing the "true cents per mile" I can get with an old Honda compared to the braggerts with the $20K Prius' (big lol!). True .01$/mile is the cost of the vehicle per year, with insurance, maintenance, and finally good ol' petrol - which has not been a big expense for a Honda - until now. I have spent just over $1000 this year on gas for my VX. In 1998 - it was about $350. My 16 year old VX which I've had for a little over two years (purchased for $1500 in Sept 2005) has cost me about $50 per month and going down the longer I drive it. I am essentially paying more for gas than I do for car payments!! I figure a Prius owner is paying at least $300 per month for "comparable mpg" for the first six years. Winner? late 1980's to mid 1990's Civics by a mile.
I'm 99% sure that the surplus air that is leading the a high idle is coming thru the PCV elbow (not a commen vaccum leak) because if I pinch the hose or block it compleatly with my thumb the idle drops a great deal, if I have the idle adjustment screw turned down far enough the idle will drop untill the engine dies (400 rpm...) it seems a little odd that if I bock off hose #8 the idle slowly goes down as well (as it uses up air in the crank case) so it seems like it should be in the design of the engine to have that passage of air restricted some how, I'll pick up the proper PCV elbo from honda next time I get the chance, I was also thinking of switching to 10W30 oil in case the engine seals were letting air pass.
so it would appear that the PCV elbow is simply alowing to much air to pass thru it?
when I ordered the parts from honda, they sent me a PCV valve, I also ordered the lower joint that sits under the intake manafold, and they sent me a 90degree elbo insted of the straight joint, so I was able to try both the empty 90, and the pcv 90, and it will not idle right with the empty 90 so I'm running with a PCV valve right now, I tightened up and checked all my hoses, cleaned my intake, and with this new PCV valve got my idle down to 900rpm, next up I'm going to try more cleaning of the intake (cleaned it two years back when I bought a new throttle body) and 5w30 or 10w30 oil insted of 0w30, and checking of each component that is run off vaccum to make sure that they are holding tight (have a vaccum pump already so it's easy), but from what I can tell their aren't any leaks.