THe website hasnt been letting me post a response, so here goes again. I figured the drain plug was the spot for the blockheater, but i didnt have it in my hand to see whether it had threads. This is the first block ive seen without an actual freeze plug. I did recieve the block heater today and it is threaded. Thanks for all the help.
couldnt get the drain plug out, binding really bad when all most all the way out. Didnt want to take a chance of not being able to get it back in. Started to bugger the head of the bolt up, even using a metrinch socket. May try agian in the summer months, when i have more time to pull the exaust manifold off radiator and all the other good stuff. Some one doesnt want me to put a block heater on.
Did you use a six point socket? It might still come out using one. If you are able to move the plug out slightly then you will be able to shoot some pb blaster in there to get it out the rest of the way. It's likely that the drain plug was never removed b4. Bummer!!!
Metrinch sockets are about the same as a six point socket except that it grips the flats of the bolt instead of the edges. I got it out about halfway and was able to spray some brute blast in. I was having to use a cheater bar and was afraid that i would end not being able to get the block heater in.
Wow that sucker is really tight!! I have removed the plug from both of my VX's without needing an extension on the 1/2 drive ratchet. It's even more amazing because of the fine threads on the plug. You will also be surprised how many turns of the ratchet it takes to completely remove the plug. You are right to be careful. Chances are that you could retap the threads but finding the tap you need might be tough.
Oh well, that's how it goes with older cars and rust. Makes me wish I would have lived 50 years into the future (and still working on cars). By that time, materials science will be able to make rust a not so fond memory.
Yeah, that's the problem with that drain plug - you have to replace the seal every time you remove it, or it will leak. I would try getting the engine up to operating temp and then try loosening it. The aluminum block and steel bolt expand at different rates when heated, so it may give you a little free play, making the job much easier. Of course, trying to remove a 180°F bolt that's situated next to a 300-500°F cast iron exhaust manifold and is holding back a couple gallons of 180°F coolant isn't going to be a fun job, either.
I would suggest draining all the coolant and heating the bolt with a torch, but the only way to drain the coolant from the engine block is by either removing the engine and tilting it to drain, or by removing that drain bolt.