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Old 06-08-2009, 09:23 PM   #11
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So, I think I'm down to two options...

1) Drive up there with a friend (in my then veg oil powered truck), and attempt to drive both vehicles back

2) Drive up there and remove the drivetrain & anything that looks useful, chunk it in the back, and drive home.

Either way, I now have a list of crap to fix on the truck before I drive it that far...

1) driveshaft support bearing is GONE. To be precise, the 2" of rubber surrounding it is gone. $80

2) One of the front suspension arms is missing a bolt and about to break the other. $5-8? Other side already had them replaced with new bolts.

2) Smokes! Governer Vacuum Diaphram is likely cracked, leaking, and causing massive overfueling. Can't locate a supplier, still looking. Having a nissan stock part # could allow finding it via nismo.com...

3) If #2 doesn't stop smoking, rebuild injectors, $25 each * 4

4) Needs all new brake pads. $50?

5) Steering rack. Not power steering, but the manual rack has some slack in it. Tie rods etc look good, the slack is in the box. It can wait a bit though...

Other than that, it could use a Tachometer and a EGT fitted for engine monitoring purposes. A fuel flow gauge would be handy...
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Old 06-09-2009, 03:18 AM   #12
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You could buy a tow bar and install it on the VW. It probably wouldn't be hard to remove the front bumper to mount a universal tow bar.

Is the VW a standard transmission? Its not a good idea to tow an auto tranny in neutral while the engine isn't running.

You could drive both cars, and the tow bar could be plan B.
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalez0r View Post
So, I think I'm down to two options...

1) Drive up there with a friend (in my then veg oil powered truck), and attempt to drive both vehicles back

2) Drive up there and remove the drivetrain & anything that looks useful, chunk it in the back, and drive home.

Either way, I now have a list of crap to fix on the truck before I drive it that far...

1) driveshaft support bearing is GONE. To be precise, the 2" of rubber surrounding it is gone. $80

2) One of the front suspension arms is missing a bolt and about to break the other. $5-8? Other side already had them replaced with new bolts.

2) Smokes! Governer Vacuum Diaphram is likely cracked, leaking, and causing massive overfueling. Can't locate a supplier, still looking. Having a nissan stock part # could allow finding it via nismo.com...

3) If #2 doesn't stop smoking, rebuild injectors, $25 each * 4

4) Needs all new brake pads. $50?

5) Steering rack. Not power steering, but the manual rack has some slack in it. Tie rods etc look good, the slack is in the box. It can wait a bit though...

Other than that, it could use a Tachometer and a EGT fitted for engine monitoring purposes. A fuel flow gauge would be handy...
Mark the flanges on the propshaft before you remove any bolts, or you will have a nightmare trying to get it rebalanced.

My old shop has the Factory microfilm for some of those old parts. I will see if I can look up the part number for you. Get back later today.

You can adjust the freeplay in the steering box. Its not a rack. I think its a worm and sector. There is a small threaded shaft coming out of the top (angled towards the front. The shaft has a lock nut at the bottom. Loosen the locknut and screw the threaded shaft in some, anc check the freeplay.

Warning!!!!!!!!!!

This adjustment has to be done VERY CAREFULLY. Turn the threaded shaft in until you feel significant resistance. That is probably too tight. Then back it off about 25%. Tighten the lock nut holding the shaft in that position.

The worm and sector gears probably have some wear in the middle but very little at the ends. Any adjustment is a compromise, but I have found that you can make a huge difference. Test the steering lock to lock (wheels off the ground) for any binding of any kind after the adjustment.

I can not overemphasize the danger of not following these directions to the letter. You could loose the steering if you do not. I found this out by doing it on a 59 Vette and ended driving it to work with it only turning left. Had to drive through the intersection and back up to make a right turn.

regards
gary
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:45 PM   #14
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Noted, thanks for the advice so far. That part # would indeed be very useful. That failing, I guess I should call a nissan dealer? "Got a leather diaphram for a 81 datsun diesel...."

>.<
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:58 AM   #15
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DalezOr, Sorry I did not get the number yeaterday. I have a dentist appointment this morning at 9 AM (eastern) Bunch of doctor stuff this week (nothing serious).
I will also check to see if its still available through Nissan.
Should have the info in about 6.5 hours.

regards
gary
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:27 AM   #16
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Ouch! Take your time! It'll still be broken tomorrow! :P
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:37 AM   #17
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Not good news on replacement parts. Long since not offered any individual parts outside of complete replacement fuel injection pump. Not even sure that is still availabe from Nissan, but it would probably be less expensive from outside their dealer network.

You need to get ID tag info off the pump itself, if you want to see if independents could get you any parts.

Best bet is a reliable rebuilder, one who does all kinds of diesel FI work, either marine or trucks, etc.

Sorry it could not be better news. Nissan microfilm only shows complete pump assembly. They apparently do not consdier individuals qualified to accomplish repairs.

regards
gary
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:21 PM   #18
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155020-7920

There's the Zexel part number... still can't find it >.<

Going to have to start emailing suppliers...

That failing... rip out the diaphram and stick a servo on it? pseudo-electronic injection, w00h00! :P
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:58 PM   #19
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My VW diesel is gone... can't blame the guy for selling it though, under the circumstances.

I'll find a path to a diesel car... in the meantime, I got this truck...
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:55 AM   #20
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First tank posted, all in town hard stop and go pizza delivery...
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