The Synlube in the tranny made a big difference when I shift - a lot looser and easier but maybe a little too slippery for the syncros as it will grind a little if you shift too fast - but is should end up reducing wear and that is the main goal - the original oil was pretty dirty in 3700 miles. I did the engine first draining it over night along with the power steering fluid and then the tranny the next night then had to gas up for the first time with ethanol so it threw the measurement on MPG way off . . . meaning I probably lost with the ethanol but net gained with the Synlube.
Bottom line is that I can get higher mileage runs on a test circuit of 12 miles that I have been driving many many times getting 46 mpg before Synlube to 50-53 after synlube. Cold start, 3 stop signs, 2 lights, 20-30mph speeds.
As far as Synlube goes - it is on Mars and the Moon in the rovers - it is not petrolium based - A Yugo ran it I think over 200,000 miles. It is a totally different type of lubricant and any die hard oil guy is not going to believe it can work but it does and my engine runs smooth and quieter with it . . . it can handle 500 degree temps without breaking down . . . and gets me enough increase in MPG to more than pay for itself in gas savings on top of the oil and time savings in less than 100,000 miles and is good for 150,000. The hardest thing to get used to is not having to change your oil again. I have a friend that races a minicooper and he put it in his tranny and likes it.
Go to their website and read up on the colloidal particle size and the filter they use for the engine. Turns out the sludge is from the trace amounts of original oil breaking down and is the reason that the filter is changed at 36,000 and 75,000 miles BUT the lube is not changed.
You have to talk to Miro before he will sell it to you and the guy is extreemly knowledgable about oils and engines. You are required to check oil levels and report to them every month via phone or email.
OOOH OOOH Tonights run without AC finally cool enough I got 55.2mpg on my Ocean Drive run.
Silvered wings: Well placed warning on hydro-lock. Thanks. I think that the ground clearance is sufficient to prevent a full emersion of the tube, but I will certainly watch for standing water. All it takes is ~60 ccs!
MetroMPG: Since the airdam on the PT was near the nose of the car, ahead of the radiator, I have to assume that it was mainly there to reduce airflow under the car (or it was simply a styling exercise). Since I am smoothing the airflow under the car, I think that I'm coming out ahead. On the Saturn, I'm sure that it was also intended to reduce airflow under the car (over the lumpy bumpy exhaust, frame, suspension, etc.). Due to its placement, I think it was also intended to form a low pressure region behind / below the radiator to improve flow through it. While I haven't implemented it yet, I intend to do an engine cover that directs the radiator exhaust behind the front wheels (low pressure areas) and / or into the accelerated stream under the car in a parallel direction. In any case, I have not had any cooling issues yet in summer driving, though I have not really challenged the Saturn much yet. The Saturn is still much earlier along in the mod process. I was somewhat surprised and pleased to see any difference in mileage just by removing the airdam.
I think it was also intended to form a low pressure region behind / below the radiator to improve flow through it.
I would have guessed so too.
I figure that's what most of those flat black "spoilers", found particularly on North American cars, are for. As you say, they may also have some added role in keeping air away from the dirty underbits.