also where the shock mounts to the control arm is not a good place to measure ground clearance because it is unsprung. i would measure the lowest part of the sprung chasis to the ground. this would probably some cross member or something.
i have a solid axle in the rear, so ground clearance doesnt change until i air down the tires and the sidewalls get some noticeable flex.
hmm i didnt think of the rear axle as the point of measuring ground clearance.... i dont know what the standard is, but i wouldnt count it. if you do then a lift kit will not get you more ground clearance, only larger tires would.
don't waste your time or time will waste you
Good article in parts. the gist of it: dropping the car is good for about a .01 improvement for every inch dropped. (I've heard that number a lot)
Dropping the front keeps air out and gives it a large space to expand: lower drag and squirrelly rear end.
Dropping the rear increases the venturi effect under the car (duh) so any belly pans become more valuable. Also creates (a lot) of lift in the front end. AKA suicide at speed. That would include 65mph with a gust of 50mph headwind.
Springs and ride hight effect the air under the car so much more than the air above that the changes in roof plane become almost unmeasurable.
Air Dams work. if they're done right.
trunk extentions work
chopping/channeling/sectioning works big time (reduction in frontal area)
Seems to make sense to me.
Oh, and no one at Bonneville (in the classes that allow it) run boat tails it seems. I wonder why? they do kamm backs though.
"If you want to save gas I suggest you permanently remove the drivers seat and steering wheel. That seems to help." -Oscar Halverson