Guys do not get hung up on Neodymium magnets because there are many grades from N20 to N42 or even N52! each one having more BL or magnetic force.
Any magnet will work because as long as it has strength enough to hold onto the metal pan it will pull down metal particals in the oil and hold them, even N42 has a very short field strength, no more than an inch or two, the bigger the magnet the better because its total BL will be much higher and its field strength will increase, in the magnet game mass makes a difference.
I work for a speaker company so I play with magnets all day long
Water is fuel, I just don't know how to make it work yet.
Aw, crap, I just remembered...my VW doesn't use a normal oil filter, it has a plastic housing with a replacable element. The magnet will not work there!
Sure it will, as long as the oil stream is in close proximity to the magnets (so that the magnetic field can reach into the oil stream, and thereby catch any metals subject to a magnetic field, which likely could include things like stray metal shavings).
However, lacking a metal surface that the magnet can auto-cling to, you will have to hold the magnets in place by some other means. This may be as simple as using a little duct tape. Or you could permanently glue the magnets to to outside of your plastic case (thereby having them always where you need them). Or you could use virtually any other fastening means that holds the magnets in place, but still lets them be fairly close to the oil stream (so that the magnetic field can reach out to that oil stream, and trap the metal shavings that are flowing past it).
NOTE: If you do put them on the outside of your plastic oil filter case, be sure to always wipe the interior surface of that case off when you change your filter cartridge. And the (somewhat obvious) reason for this, is so you remove those stray metal pieces (trapped by the magnetic field) every time you change your oil filter (instead of letting them keep building up, until they eventually may become a problem with plugging the oil line).
Speakers are a great source of magnets, you can split the plates and yoke off with a hammer and chisel.
To give you an example of how field strength works, if you take a small 50 gram Neodymium magnet and a 200 gram lump of Strontium which has a lower BL or Tesla, or Gauss how ever you wish to measure its strength, it will actually have a longer wider field,, the bigger the magnets mass the larger its field will be, you can see this when you have non shielded speakers to close to a CRT TV.
In fact the Sun has a rather low magnetic field density but because the Sun is 1 million times the size of our Earth its field effects things here and beyond.
Water is fuel, I just don't know how to make it work yet.
A perfect oil filter media would stop all the particles down to 1-micron (about 1/70th the thickness of a human hair). Unfortunately, a filter with ports that small would also restrict the oil from returning to the engine fast enough, resulting in catastrophic equipment failure.
You can get down that fine in filtration, if you go with a good "bypass filter" system. However, as already mentioned, bypass filter systems require extra oil path plumbing in the car (to be installed correctly). And they also have an initial cost (and ongoing costs for things like the filters used). So many people (reasonably) question if bypass filter systems are worth the initial cost/hassle of installing them.
As to the magnets (either a product like you mentioned, or even just your own magnets on the outside of the oil filter can), they are a great way to get small metal shavings that can be trapped by magnetic fields. This is very good, as those metal pieces are often extra sharp, and therefore a very good thing to trap (from a wear standpoint). And even if/when your filter(s) could do the same work without the magnets, using the magnets eases the stresses on the filters themselves (allowing the filters to last a little longer).
However, we need to keep in mind that magnets (while helpful for oil cleaning/filtering) only grab junk that is susceptible to magnetic fields. i.e. Magnets can help do things like trap steel metal shavings that get in the oil, but they won't help a bit with normal sand/dirt, or any other contaminant in the oil that is immune to magnetic fields. So it's still a good idea to get a better/finer filter when that is an option, even when you choose to add magnets to the oil (or transmission fluid) filtration you use.
Originally Posted by civic_matic_00
Filter media developments over the years have certainly increased the life cycle for oil filtration cartridges, but fluid dynamics require the ports in the media to remain 25-micron or larger.
That info is dated.
As far as I know its a true limit of traditional (paper) filter media, but no longer the true limit with the best nano-fiber synthetic filter media that is now on the market. For example, the Amsoil EaO oil filters (which I both personally use, and sell as an Amsoil dealer) use an excellent fully synthetic filter media. And those filters have no pores that are any bigger than 20 microns, and many of the pores go down to 10 microns. Yet, those filters not only trap 50% of dirt down to the 7 micron size (and over 98% of the stuff 15 microns or bigger), they actually have a better oil flow rate than many traditional car filters, that don't filter nearly as well. This is accomplished, by the fact that the synthetic media has many more "holes" in it than is possible with traditional paper filters, so this filter can make up for in volume (of holes for the oil to flow through), what traditional paper filters have to do with hole size (thereby maintaining the extra good oil flow rate, while still doing a much better job of filtering out contaminants)!
The reports I've heard around the net, suggest that the harm to the engine goes way down with junk that's 10 microns or less (i.e. most stuff that small, is too small to cause much harm). This doesn't mean that the ideal isn't still to get in the 2 micron or less range (i.e. things like bypass filters), but even if you only get the 10+ micron stuff (such as you can get with the EaO full flow filters I mentioned), you are still doing way better (in terms of engine wear) than you would be with a traditional paper oil filter.
Of course, while filtration is important and great, the true synergy comes when you use extra good filtration with quality synthetic oils, giving you the best of both worlds (i..e the extra good lubricating/flowing/cooling/cleaning/etc properties of the synthetic oils, combined with a system that constantly cleans/removes any harmful dirt/metal/etc that does make it into the oil). This is what I do with my cars, and I find it easily pays for itself over time. Because not only have I seen a real (if not huge) FE benefit from this approach, even the extra cost of the oil/filters is made up by the fact that I can go significantly longer between oil changes (thereby making the total cost/mile of doing oil changes LESS than I was paying when I was using more traditional oil and filters, simply because the quality oil/filters I use last so much longer).
Why the hell don't we have vortex principle/centrifugal separator type oil filters yet???
I remember The RoadWarrior..To understand who he was, you have to go back to another time..the world was powered by the black fuel & the desert sprouted great cities..Gone now, swept away..two mighty warrior tribes went to war & touched off a blaze which engulfed them all. Without fuel, they were nothing..thundering machines sputtered & stopped..Only those mobile enough to scavenge, brutal enough to pillage would survive. The gangs took over the highways, ready to wage war for a tank of juice
Or you could permanently glue the magnets to to outside of your plastic case (thereby having them always where you need them).
Duh! Of course...because the housing does not get discarded I can just permanently epoxy the magnets in place! I forgot about that.
Originally Posted by DracoFelis
bypass filter systems [...] have an initial cost (and ongoing costs for things like the filters used). So many people (reasonably) question if bypass filter systems are worth the initial cost/hassle of installing them.
Such people are the ones who have never had an engine problem that could have been helped by additional attention to oil. That includes me, though I've never kept a vehicle long enough to wear out the engine internals -- by 200,000 miles I generally get tired of fixing everything else.