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Old 07-31-2009, 09:48 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikehallbackhoe View Post
I have tried eoc on my valk on steep downhill runs, but found it difficult to hold in the clutch very long ( carpal tunnel) don't think it was worth the effort
That is where you just cut the engine and cruise....right?

I don't like that, because it increases clutch wear. Here is an example of what would sometimes happen. The clutch could be fully released, yes, the engint woudn't turn over (this was on my 250). The proper technique was to press the start button slightly before releasing the clutch. You didn't have to start the engine with the start button, just get it spinning.

The problem is many bike clutches, (friction discs, pressure plates, etc.) are continually optimized, through grooves, etc. for optimal holding power when transfering power to the road, not the opposite. They infact re- design the whold clutch to do just that with slipper clutches. If your bike has the starter relay/solenoid dependent on the clutch being pulled in, I would simply press the button while holding the clutch lever in and release int quicly, but in a controlled manner. A little practice and you can get it just right.

This helped me get a max of almost 70 miles per gallon on the ninja 250 with a tiny bit of city driving. Some ninja 250 riders get 88, but, they undoubtably probably have sprockets and windscreens.

Oh you know another thing I just thought of aswell....Some trunks, if they're positioned properly can increase gas mileage, verses saddle bags that stick out to the side. Position them in the slip stream!
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:06 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelwoodcock View Post
That is where you just cut the engine and cruise....right?
EOC (Engine Off Coasting) is when you coast with the engine turned off, in neutral or holding the clutch disengaged. As I mentioned before, my gut feeling is that it's a bad idea on motorcycles.
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Old 07-31-2009, 11:57 AM   #93
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I perform EOC when I know there is a stop sign at the end of a 2 mi. long down hill.. or when I see the traffic light that just turn yellow 1/2 mile away and it's a long wait to turn green... usually by the time I get to the stop sign or traffic light, I still have enough momentum to bump strat the engine...

Stopped at a light with clutch lever pulled and bike in gear also inceases clutch wear, too.
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:41 AM   #94
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Stopped at a light with clutch lever pulled and bike in gear also inceases clutch wear, too.
I usually shift in neutral or even turn off the engine (ideally EOC before stopping, problematic if there are others behind me) if the stop light promises to be long (especially when I'm on a backroad/small street and waiting to cross/join a main road).
It helps when there are others before me, I have plenty of time to play with the starter then.

I have doubts about "soft" neutral coating (clutch pulled, in gear) exactly because what you mentioned but idle in "soft neutral" doesn't seem different (no clutch drag) so I feel it won't hurt the clutch (not much at least). I hope I'm right...

But I think I won't ever EOC when it's not sure that I'm going to stop. I tried it and felt very unsafe
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:52 PM   #95
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This morning I tried to shift to real neutral from 4th on a looong downhill. Teresa apparently did not like the idea, the gears made a loud noise on the 2nd->neutral shift (is grinding the correct English word?).
No problem though when I'm EOCing on the last 100-200 meters in our street. That street has a 30km/h limit so I'm already cruising in 2nd before killing the engine, probably this is why she likes it much better.
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:47 AM   #96
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Yes, grinding is the correct word in English.
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:29 PM   #97
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Presumably that modern bike has a modern ignition, so you might look into a ScanGauge to adjust the computer settings.

An older ignition would benefit by the performance boost of a Jacobs Ignition. If it works anything like in my Dakota, you will find a smoother idle, more power and a mile or two better MPG.
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Old 08-16-2009, 09:52 PM   #98
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Presumably that modern bike has a modern ignition, so you might look into a ScanGauge to adjust the computer settings.
I really don't know how could I attach a ScanGauge, but a forum mate from an F650-specific Hungarian forum plans to make a home-grown multipurpose instrument for this type of BMW bus (which is common with the C1 series). If he succeeds, I'll definitely play some with its programming to see a bit more of Teresa's inner working.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:06 PM   #99
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I've heard it's relatively easy to mod the shifter so that you have a neutral between your top gears.

Yes, stock bikes do not like to go into N at speed. You have to rev match which pretty much cancels out the reason you wanted to coast in the first place.

Some say there is no ill effect from holding the clutch in for extended glides. I don't like to do that though.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:36 PM   #100
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Some say there is no ill effect from holding the clutch in for extended glides. I don't like to do that though.
We'll see in a few years
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