25,000 Mile Oil Change - Page 4 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 11-17-2012, 07:08 PM   #31
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The synlube is rated 5w50 for low and high temperature viscosity and works well at over 500 degree temps therefore the 50 rating. It actually is very thin and black consisting of colloidal particles of PTFE, Moly and graphite so a conventional oil analysis is not possible since it already contains 2-3 micron particles that are supposed to be there mixed in with obvious impurities which the 5-8 micron filter removes. Oil is rated for 150,000 miles between oil changes Or 15 years. As for wasting gas it gives my 2006 xB typically mid 40's mpg per tank epa rated 28 highway. You are new here so you are not up to speed on this product. It and other products made by this company are used on the space station, shuttles, mars and lunar rovers.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:20 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arky View Post
What he said.
But Synlube is not oil, its a colloidal particle solid lubricant in a non petroleum based suspending liquid. It does not break down and form contaminants like conventional oil.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:03 AM   #33
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Synlube's replies in the FAQ and customer questions on their website felt shady to me.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:46 AM   #34
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I wonder, with this synlube stuff, do you change the filter? I could possibly see the fluid being alright (as a strech) but would think that the fluid would bring out things from the motor over time that would clog a filter....please tell me you are still running a filter.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:38 PM   #35
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Yup full flow synthetic fiber 5-8 micron and I am on the second filter due for a change soon according to Synlube underwriters, the original schedule was after 75k miles. My last change was at 38k?
The thing to remember is that sludge is formed from the oil breaking down and synlube is not oil.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:41 AM   #36
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Group IV synthetic motor oils technically aren't an oil either. They can still degrade over time just sitting in the engine. Its why Amsoil on others also have a time limit to their extend oil change intervals.

Then there is the heat of a running engine. Synthetics resist this better than a basic petro oil, but they will still get burnt under some conditions. When these particles mix with some moisture from the atmosphere, an acid is formed. Oils contain base compounds to neutralize them. They, and antiwear compounds, get used up over time. That's why oil needs to be changed. Not because the oil losses its lubricating ability.

Testing at bitog shows Synlube contains the base compounds. So some of it is getting burnt in the engine, or there wouldn't be acids to neutralize.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:11 AM   #37
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The addoil replaces the sacrificial component in the lubricant which is why you need to add some every once in awhile. Part of the component is an iron compound that neutralizes the acids. They recommend changing it after 15 years but you can exchange it for the cost of shipping and they recycle it as used lubricant and sell it to the government for more than the new price, which is why they can exchange it for shipping cost. It also keeps the engine cooler from the reduced friction thus lasts longer.
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:47 PM   #38
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JanGeo:

Hi, thanks for your reply. My post wasn't intended as any kind of personal whack, in case it was taken that way...I didn't mean to insult either. Aside from it being a form of ad-hominem, it wasn't very cool to insinuate that me being new to a particular forum is the same as being new to the matters discussed.

You can do what you like of course, but we'll talk after you've had the same "oil" in your car for 15 years. (in quotes b/c not an oil, you say). If your car still runs, would be very informative to open up the engine and see how it looks inside. Actually, I think it would be very wise to get a good oil analysis done at this point...that will show the real situation. Polaris Labs is kind of pricey but very thorough and the best I can think to recommend if you want details. Aren't you in the least bit curious to know what it might show? I am, for one.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I was stunned that anyone would think you could run the same oil change for the life of the car and hot have serious issues, or a blown engine long before! Still am for that matter, and would try to dissuade you from this course. But as they say, the perennial argument among older and newer mechanis is what type of oil to use!

There is lots we could say about chemistry and viscosity, but it wasn't my my intention to argue with you...I was only trying to be helpful, but if you don't want it that's fine. I'll be interested to hear the honest long-term developments with your vehicle as you keep driving with the same change. I'm always for learning. Remember, however, that thorough oil analysis and engine breakdown are the most accurate means of finding out how well this Synlube holds up and protects after years of service. (short of catastrophic failure of course...that would be a dead giveaway). What vehicle do you have it in by the way? The white Scion xB?

Cordially,
John
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:03 PM   #39
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No insult intended John or taken, even my brother remains skeptical and he's a mechanic and aircraft engineer. I already have taken a sample and just need to send it to synlube for them to check it for free to make sure it still staying clean. It is an unusual type of lubricant and they have been using it for decades with the same formula in all sorts of vehicles and fleet trucks. That 15 year oil change interval is their recommendation of what it can do. If it wasn't lubricating my engine properly I would not be getting the 45 miles per gallon that I do get for tank averages. As for an oil analysis, this stuff is as black as the dirtiest oil you can imagine but it is supposed to look that way.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:39 PM   #40
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I would think that a third party (non-biased) check would be well worth the money. the fact that you say it is black as tar would make even the biggest advocate for the stuff want to just "double check".

of course their analysis will be free. I can't see it being non-biased.

how much did it cost you to have this put in and was there a procedure to flush all the oil out of your engine before you put this stuff in?
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