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Old 06-02-2008, 07:30 AM   #11
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Yup, I'm gonna try and get the intake ports of my Escort's head copper plated before I put it back on.

Edit: yes brass might not be such a good thing in the fuel system, because the zinc in it in combination with copper promotes a different catalysation reaction promoting acetic acid and formaldehyde production rather than ketones and H2. So stick to copper parts as much as you can.

By the way, copper is meant to be a "bad thing" in fuel systems according to some experts. As far as I can nail this down, it's due to the tendency of copper to work harden and fracture... therefore use of copper line instead of steel and/or flexible lines is not good, because vibration will weaken it. So best practice would be to make sure your copper fuel heating coils cannot come under any mechanical stress, by isolating them from vibration as much as possible. So support the heat exchanger well and allow plenty of free play in connections to it. Make the in and out pipes short, connect with flexible fuel injection hose.
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I remember The RoadWarrior..To understand who he was, you have to go back to another time..the world was powered by the black fuel & the desert sprouted great cities..Gone now, swept away..two mighty warrior tribes went to war & touched off a blaze which engulfed them all. Without fuel, they were nothing..thundering machines sputtered & stopped..Only those mobile enough to scavenge, brutal enough to pillage would survive. The gangs took over the highways, ready to wage war for a tank of juice
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:00 AM   #12
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Hmm...maybe a couple inches of rubber hose on each end of the copper would help isolate it.
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadWarrior View Post
Yup, I'm gonna try and get the intake ports of my Escort's head copper plated before I put it back on.

Edit: yes brass might not be such a good thing in the fuel system, because the zinc in it in combination with copper promotes a different catalysation reaction promoting acetic acid and formaldehyde production rather than ketones and H2. So stick to copper parts as much as you can.

By the way, copper is meant to be a "bad thing" in fuel systems according to some experts. As far as I can nail this down, it's due to the tendency of copper to work harden and fracture... therefore use of copper line instead of steel and/or flexible lines is not good, because vibration will weaken it. So best practice would be to make sure your copper fuel heating coils cannot come under any mechanical stress, by isolating them from vibration as much as possible. So support the heat exchanger well and allow plenty of free play in connections to it. Make the in and out pipes short, connect with flexible fuel injection hose.
you know what would be great? a canister (maybe 2" in diameter and 2 to 4 inches long) filled with copper beads or coper shavings where the fuel would pass through. this could effectively "treat" E10 passing through it before it reaches the fuel rail. the canister can be bolted to eliminate any mechanical play, secure it with rubber coated clamps to dampen any vibrations and voila - an E10 catalyst!

a fuel filter with copper lining or filter mesh could do the trick! LOL!

a thicker copper tube with threaded ends, with the caps that have 3/8" fittings. hmmmmm.....sounds like a good project!
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:48 AM   #14
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make a 3/8 copper coil about 6 inches long and coil it around your radiator return line insulate it i used a beer coozie and metal tape and connect it to you gas line going to the injectors ..works best with fuel injection i got 62mpg in a 92 stealth r/t now everyone go save some gas if you get a huge increase like me you toss a dollar my way


pics please! so the copper line is just hollow and empty? are you moving any fluid through it? or are you saying route your fuel through this? is this safe? fire hazard?

did you also increase your tire pressure and are you using a scangauge?
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