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Old 05-21-2008, 06:28 PM   #11
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using SG2 it shows the loop closes very quickly. im in the outskirts of atlanta. and have a 38 mile one way commute. and its 60 to 70 degrees on avg right now during my evening ride into work and in the moring at 9am its a little warmer

I want to make a lean burn indicator. or a richness indicator.

ive been driving normaly (except for being easy on the clutch)

fuel weight
Yes draging extra fuel matters. think of how heavy 1 gallon of milk is. on avg 6 to 7 lbs. it think is weight of fuel. light airplanes fly higher and faster.

Wrong gear (high gearing)
Ive never gone to wot normaly 40 or so on tps. then just back off im never in that much of a hurry i arrive at work 45 min before my shift on most days.

fuel cut
I have a 5 speed and cut out is noticed as soon as i let off the gas.
off gas tps reads 9
cutout seems to happen around 10 to 13 tps reading


I find myself getting the best eco at around 17 to 19

just holding my speed on the flats and droping speed on the hills along with FE.

im also still fighting my egr code (i will pull the egr manifold or entire intake) im sure the entire intake is due a cleaning.

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Old 05-21-2008, 07:08 PM   #12
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Question could you use an oscilliscope to monitor injector activity?

Bockwho there is a possibility you clutch doesn't have enough freeplay.

If the engagement point is very close to the end of the pedal travel, and there is no freeplay your clutch may not be completely disengaging.

Freeplay means there is about 3/4 inch of movement with very little resistance at the top of the pedal travel. The adjustment is under the dash where the rod that connects the pedal to the slave cylinder is located. Freeplay allows the throwout bearing to stop spinning all the time which can prematurely wear out the throwout bearing.

To add freeplay you need to shorten the rod by adjusting the nut in the direction of the slave cylinder.

As a clutch wears the freeplay gradually gets to be less and less until there is none left and your clutch is parutally disengaged.

As I said the best way is to pay close attention to the engagement point. If it is almost at the top of pedal travel, add some freeplay and see if that stops the slipping.

In about 25% of the times I had a customer complaint about a slipping clutch it was a simple freeplay adjustment, always great for customer relations.

Try using the fuel shutoff by downshifting to keep the engine speed above 1000 RPM. If you learn this technique you can reduce your idling by slowing down for a red light (or for any reason) using downshifting instead of sitting at the light wasting fuel idling.

Of course if your clutch is worn out and the freeplay adjustment attempt doesn't fix it (for free) then downshifting will accelerate you clutch wear slightly.


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Old 05-21-2008, 10:37 PM   #13
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I will check that out thanks for the tip (ive also sent a pm follow up)

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Old 10-18-2008, 05:55 AM   #14
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monroe74 and bockwho,

How do I set up AFR measurement on my HX?
It has a 5-wire first O2 sensor.
I'm handy with a soldering iron and multitester but I don't know which wire and other background info.


Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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