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Old 09-09-2009, 10:34 AM   #11
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i dont really have that venturi type vacuum port. Mayb i should use and hook into the pcv valve port. that vacuum is only pulled one way from top of valve cover and then to intake manifold. I did a web search and they say hook into pcv line

what do you think about e3 i dont think they are platinum or iridium right
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:41 AM   #12
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I couldn't find out on their site either whether they were coated or tipped with platinum, iridium or unobtanium.

PCV line will be okay, will just tend to lose flow during large throttle openings, but it won't take much pressure in the cell to push it in (Unless you fit a turbo) and at least it won't build up anywhere if you have to idle.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:42 AM   #13
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I'm sure your Jeep will retard timing if it detects knock but there is a point of no return. The computer is only programmed to retard so much and if you force the timing out of specification enough that maximum retard can be well above where timing should be.

How did you gap the e3 plugs? They have a tri-pod electrode configuration that doesn't allow for traditional gaping.

As for the transmission, check out the owners manual for towing. The tracker manual said the automatic could be flat towed with the auto in neutral at 55mph if you started the engine and let it idle in neutral for a minute or so every 150-200 miles. That car EOC on the freeway was no problem.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkjones96 View Post
As for the transmission, check out the owners manual for towing. The tracker manual said the automatic could be flat towed with the auto in neutral at 55mph if you started the engine and let it idle in neutral for a minute or so every 150-200 miles. That car EOC on the freeway was no problem.
Good idea. When checking that, make sure it says that the transfer case can remain engaged and you just have to leave the transmission in neutral.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:15 PM   #15
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All that farting around and it's still 16% BELOW EPA.

Cars, trucks, whatever... I've always been able to beat EPA handily.

So much for those "mods". Just learn how to drive the thing sensibly.
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:21 PM   #16
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Or simply show me the same mid 90's jeep cherokee that gets better mpg and i'll shut my mouth.

All my driving is city no highway. EPA was 12 i am 23 -25mpg.

So when i bought the jeep starting at 12 2 years ago i guess its all driving that got me to 25 on my best day i dont think so.
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Old 09-09-2009, 03:52 PM   #17
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If I want to waste my time I'll stop by... unless you have a cold one handy.

WTH are you doing in a Jeep in the city anyway?
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95CHERJUST View Post
Or simply show me the same mid 90's jeep cherokee that gets better mpg and i'll shut my mouth.
http://www.gassavers.org/garage/view/2136
http://www.gassavers.org/garage/viewgaslog/2136?
25.59 MPG
1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 4.0L. Curb weight 3600 pounds. 5 speed, presumably manual; that is certainly an advantage, although its EPA rating is lower.

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EPA was 12 i am 23 -25mpg.
According to your garage entry, it's 22 not 12.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:11 PM   #19
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He went from 16% under EPA yesterday to 2% above after reading my post today... AMAZING!!!

I'm the best fuel economy mod he's got!!! LOL

Anyway, I'd like to tap into Justin's mechanical expertise on working ho ho ho systems, since roadwarrior keeps coming up "short".
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:12 AM   #20
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So much anger! Strike a nerve???

Quote:
-Stan Meyer Replica HHO Hydrogen Cell all 316 stainless steel, puts out almost 2.0LPM, running at 10amps 150 degrees, b&m cooler too. *junk*
-Map and 02 enhancer to lean the jeep out since adding hho. *does it work?*
-Transmission cooler so Trans runs as cool as possible *no towing? then junk*
-Transmission kick down cable as tight as possible so shifts are as firm as possible no lagging *wrong*
-PCV enhancer to catch oil blow by from valve cover to intake. *junk*
-battery voltage stabilizer, supposively helps keep everything at a stable voltage *are you freekin kidding?*
-Fuel Magnet supposively helps *yeah right... junk*
-3.0? warm air intake next to header cone air filter best mpg is warm air *mmm hmm*
-Removed clutch fan for electric fan less moving parts and it is adj and kicks on at 205, and thermostat is 195 highest possible. *there ya go! well even a stopped clock is right twice a day*
-6 new Bosch fuel efficient spray injectors, no more pencil spray old stock junk ones that prob leak too. *maybe good, maybe not*
-Throttle body spacer with cyclone lines for better combustion and mpg *oh please*
-Timing advanced as far as possible for better mpg *good as long as ECU allows it*
-Block heater so motor warms up faster to operating temp and into closed loop *good- thumbup*
-2000 jeep intake manifold that flows better and 15hp increase *doesn't do much of anything unless you're not driving economically*
-Tire pressures are all at 55PSI *might be a bit much but OK*
-Run in neutral on hills and turn off if it?s a long enough hill, same thing at long lights it?s turned off. *good*
-Serp belt is as loose as possible so spins as free as possible *as long as stuff isn't slipping*
-removed a/c and all that weight, and re-routed alternator in a/c's old spot so no more idler, fan or a/c pulley. smaller belt and less things to run around. *good*
-Removed hitch, front driveshaft, spare tire and holder, rear seats, seatbelts, rear carpet, roof rack, and any other odds and ends that add extra weight. *good but begs the question of why try to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear?*
-then rhino lined floors so its like a truck bed on the inside. * *
-All fluids in the jeep are the lightest weight possible diffs 75w80, tranny, engine oil 0w20, transfer case and all synthetic amsoil best. *best effect in very cold temps otherwise not so much*
-e3 plugs gapped as large as possible *whatever*
-all high output wires, cap, rotor and coil from accell 8.5 super conductor for best possible spark *can't hurt but likely no better than stock*
-high flow pacesetter header back exhaust 2.5 inch no kinks or sharp bends, high flow magnaflow cat too. *at low rpm- doesn't help*
-run acetone, xylene, and 2cycle oil in gas at each fill up *bwaahahaha*
-run z max every 5,000 miles in all fluids. *bwaahahaha*
-all new sensors map, tps, iat, iac, map, 02 sensor so they are all working best as possible. *probably not necessary but if buying new parts floats your boat...*
I see from your list of intelligent mods that you pretty much have every scam P.O.S. ever marketed on your pile- I hope you are getting airtabs soon to make it complete. Only thing I'll learn from you and your superior mechanical skills is yet another verification that it's all junk that doesn't work. I suppose there might be some value in that.
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