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Old 04-18-2007, 01:59 PM   #1
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Day time running Lights

A simple idea can cost a lot. How much extra fuel would be burned in the USA if all cars were required to have DRL like Canada? Answer
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Old 04-18-2007, 02:02 PM   #2
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I see the point behind DRLs, but don't know if they're necessary. I feel like safety is very important, and instead of trying to accomodate people who can't drive, we should make our licensing processes more strict and keep them off the road, , that would save a lot of gas, too.
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Old 04-18-2007, 03:07 PM   #3
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I have day time running lights I need to disconnect them, although I doubt it wastes that much fuel.
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Old 04-18-2007, 03:57 PM   #4
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Zvolen -

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Originally Posted by Zvolen View Post
I have day time running lights I need to disconnect them, although I doubt it wastes that much fuel.
When I stared at the wiring diagram, I came to the conclusion that the hi-beams (which are what Saturns use as DRLs) are using between 5 and 10 Amps.

I disabled mine by pulling the DRL fuse from the underhood fusebox. On Saturns, this causes you to lose one of your hi-beams (It has to do with how the headlights are wired, lose a fuse, lose a hi-beam. I have a picture of it somewhere). On saturnfans.com, there is a way to restore the hi-beam with some creative fusebox wiring, but I have not found the definitive way to do it.

I keep the fuse in my car if and/or when I really need my hi-beams. I am in sunny LA, and even in fog, I don't use them (in fog I think hi-beams are bad because they reflect too much light back to the driver, right?).

CarloSW2
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Old 04-18-2007, 04:31 PM   #5
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Zvolen -



When I stared at the wiring diagram, I came to the conclusion that the hi-beams (which are what Saturns use as DRLs) are using between 5 and 10 Amps.

I disabled mine by pulling the DRL fuse from the underhood fusebox. On Saturns, this causes you to lose one of your hi-beams (It has to do with how the headlights are wired, lose a fuse, lose a hi-beam. I have a picture of it somewhere). On saturnfans.com, there is a way to restore the hi-beam with some creative fusebox wiring, but I have not found the definitive way to do it.

I keep the fuse in my car if and/or when I really need my hi-beams. I am in sunny LA, and even in fog, I don't use them (in fog I think hi-beams are bad because they reflect too much light back to the driver, right?).

CarloSW2
This is precisely how I disabled DRL on my 2000 SL2, 2002 SC2, and now 2002 SL2...



1. With lights turned off, remove the DRL relay
2. Plug a 10 or 12 gauge piece o' wire in the slots shown, as pictured standing at the left fender, looking across the fusebox toward the engine.

------------
| -- -x- -- |
| -x- ... -- |
------------

No DRLs and both high beams work when needed. There's a write-up on www.saturnfans.com. That's where I found this hack. Can't recall which thread though. Be advised instead of the DRLs turning on when you put the car in gear, the DRL light on the IP will flash briefly, and turn off. I rarely notice it anymore. I've had my car at the stealership a few times for minor things and never once was it mentioned, "hey, did you know your daytime running lights aren't working?"
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Old 04-18-2007, 04:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
Zvolen -



When I stared at the wiring diagram, I came to the conclusion that the hi-beams (which are what Saturns use as DRLs) are using between 5 and 10 Amps.

I disabled mine by pulling the DRL fuse from the underhood fusebox. On Saturns, this causes you to lose one of your hi-beams (It has to do with how the headlights are wired, lose a fuse, lose a hi-beam. I have a picture of it somewhere). On saturnfans.com, there is a way to restore the hi-beam with some creative fusebox wiring, but I have not found the definitive way to do it.

I keep the fuse in my car if and/or when I really need my hi-beams. I am in sunny LA, and even in fog, I don't use them (in fog I think hi-beams are bad because they reflect too much light back to the driver, right?).

CarloSW2
Funny that this subject comes up. Last Friday, I decided to try to restore my right-side highbeam in my Saturn. I had seen a diagram somewhere a long time ago and thought I could do it from memory; BIG MISTAKE! Lets just say that after the smoke cleared from the dash I discovered that I have no speedo, tach, and that the fuel and temp gauges look like they have a bad case of the jitters and there is a faint off and on glowing in the hazard light indicator and the odometer flickers as well. My son went inside and found the proper diagram on this site: http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#GMgen
The listing for Saturn's is about half way down the page.
Thank goodness I have my SG or I wouldn't have any idea how fast I'm going or how fast the engine is turning.
Edit: I see davidjh72 beat me to it. Thanks. His is a better representation anyway.
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Old 04-18-2007, 04:58 PM   #7
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My bro decided to be "helpful" and put a radio in dad's Dodge Aspen wagon. Crappy sound out of the stock speakers and bonus... no IP lights!
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Old 04-18-2007, 04:59 PM   #8
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diamondlarry -

I am sorry to hear that!!!!!! I don't like it when bad things happen to GasSaver cars.

davidjh72 -

Thanks for the mod. That is what I was vaguely remembering! Maybe you posted it at saturnfans. While not true in all cases, a beefy gauge wire (like the 10-12 you suggest) is imperative because if it is not thick enough, it can be overloaded and burn and melt.

CarloSW2
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Old 04-18-2007, 05:07 PM   #9
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diamondlarry -

I am sorry to hear that!!!!!! I don't like it when bad things happen to GasSaver cars.

davidjh72 -

Thanks for the mod. That is what I was vaguely remembering! Maybe you posted it at saturnfans. While not true in all cases, a beefy gauge wire (like the 10-12 you suggest) is imperative because if it is not thick enough, it can be overloaded and burn and melt.

CarloSW2
I wish I could take credit for the mod. Might have been the famous Wolfman's work.

+1 on using a thick gauge wire. Headlamps, especially hi-beams, are a high current draw item. Don't be using anything crazy small like 22 gauge (tiny!) electronics project wire. 10 gauge works, but I found I had to lose two strands of the 7 or so on each end or it wouldn't quite fit. 12 gauge would be perfect. I used that same piece of wire with all three of my 2000/2002 S-series cars. Of course I put the relay back in when I traded in those cars.
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Old 04-18-2007, 05:19 PM   #10
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All I have to do now is figure out what I fried and how much it will cost to fix.
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