LED lights - Page 2 - Fuelly Forums

Android Users - Coming Soon! - Migrating from aCar 4.8 to 5.0

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-29-2008, 05:30 PM   #11
Supporting Member
 
DracoFelis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 265
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by african_andy189 View Post
I think LED's for all the stop/indicator/fog/reverse/number plate lights and HID is more realistic
And while retrofitting LED headlights is a real chore (if you can do it at all) retrofitting secondary car lights to LEDs is actually pretty easy to do, if you shop at the right places.

For example, on my CRX, I converted almost all of my non-headlight bulbs (I still have a few small backlight bulbs that are hard to get to inside the car, and while my "fog lights" haven't been converted I'm not currently using them either) to LED modules purchased from http://www.superbrightleds.com . And in most cases the conversion was very simple to do (in most cases I just unplugged the stock bulb, and plugged the LED module in its place), with the obvious exceptions being the small (hard to get to) dash backlight bulbs. A few things to keep in mind:

1) Do NOT buy just on price, look at the specs (light output, color, and beam angle) of the module, and buy on that. If you can't find the specs, odds are good that the module is going to produce sub-par lighting. In my case, I usually bought the brightest modules available in a given shape/size, and as a result many of my lights are brighter than stock. When I tried the cheaper modules I was usually disappointed with the light output.

2) Only buy "white" modules if/when you really need white light. If you need colored (green, amber, or red) light, buy a module that already produces light in the color you need (even if/when your stock bulb was white). By doing this, you will get much brighter/crisper light color, by avoiding the light loss that you always take when converting white light to colored light.

3) Since most LEDs are directional, make sure your beam angle is at least wide enough to fully light the car lens. If you go with a too narrow beam angle you will get a "pin hole" effect from the light. OTOH it's OK to go "too wide", as doing so just uses the natural car reflector to bounce some of the light back out the lens as a normal (incandescent) bulb would also do.

4) Be mindful of what angle the "bulb" will mount in the car assembly. For example, most car mountings expect their light directly in front of them, and most LED modules are built to that assumption. However, if/when you have a "sideways" bulb mounting, be sure to either buy LED modules with a 90 degree bend (to point the light out the side) or extremely wide angle LED modules (that throw light in essentially all directions, including the side). Otherwise, you won't have the light where you need it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by african_andy189 View Post
for the headlights.Has anyone changed to HID's and noticed fuel economy is affected?typical HID's draw about 35 watts compared to about 50 for a normal halogen.
I did some research, and not only are HIDs a bit pricey, but (even more significantly) to be street legal you CAN NOT use stock car optics! Instead, to have legal HIDs, you have to change to new projector type lens optics, and somehow properly mount them to your car! Seemed like much bigger of a project than I was willing to do (or pay for).

However, what I was willing to do, was to replace my CRX's 9005(high)/9006(low) bulbs with Toshiba HIR1(9011)/HIR2(9012) bulbs. I didn't save any power at all doing this (the HIR1 is a stock 9005's 65w and the HIR2 is the stock 9006's 55w), but I did get a lot more light without using any more power. And unlike HID bulbs, HIR bulbs work well with the stock 9005/9006 optics (putting the light in the same places the stock bulbs do), and have a close to normal light color spectrum (i.e almost stock light tint) as well. And HIR bulbs also (unlike HID) come on just as fast as normal halogen bulbs do.

So while I didn't save any power from this conversion, I did get a lot more light for the same power/fuel used. And in a small way I probably do save a little fuel, as my "low beams" are now bright enough that I use my "high beams" even less than I used to use them.

FWIW: Yes, I still consider the low beams (much less the high beams) to be "power hungry" in my car. And even my secondary LED lights make a small difference in FE when they are on (and the headlights a noticeable amount more than that). So my current strategy is to use the lights as follows:

1) High beams are only used for short periods of time, when I need to quickly check something (for example, is that dark patch beside the road a deer that I'll need to watch out for?) on a dark road. i.e. Even on dark roads (at night) I don't run my highs all the time.

2) Low beam headlights are used when I need them to see and/or I'm legally required to have them on at that time.

3) If I simply want to be easier to be seen (overcast skies, heavy traffic, vacationing in Canada, etc) I'll use my secondary (LED powered) lights (i.e. everything except for the headlights themselves, and that includes the front facing white LED modules). By doing this, the car is VERY VISIBLE to other drivers, while still saving the large power usage of the headlights (the LED modules only draw a few watts total, whereas the low beams are 110w just for the 2 bulbs + the power for all the secondary lights).

4) And if it's very bright (and I'm not traveling in an area where lights are required/recommended), I'll just turn off all the lights (counting on a bright red CRX to be visible to other drivers) and save even the minor hit of the power required for the LED modules.
__________________

DracoFelis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2008, 07:29 PM   #12
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 139
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to jeep45238
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkjones96 View Post
Why would you get a voltage spike when reconnecting the battery? The battery is 12v. If anything, you get a spike when you disconnect it from the alternator regulator not responding fast enough to the battery being gone. The battery is more of a regulator / buffer than anything else when the car is finally started unless your alternator is low on output then the battery provides some juice.
12v + 14v instantaneously for a split second, which is all it takes to fry a computer.

Feel free to try it on your own vehicle with a volt meter on the battery posts - it only takes 2 volts extra. It's not my car.
__________________

__________________
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well armed sheep contesting that decision.

jeep45238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2008, 11:10 AM   #13
AMX
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 44
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep45238 View Post
12v + 14v instantaneously for a split second, which is all it takes to fry a computer.

Feel free to try it on your own vehicle with a volt meter on the battery posts - it only takes 2 volts extra. It's not my car.
That's not why. Some electrical theory for you: The alternator and battery are in parrallel when hooked up. Therefore, the voltage is only the higher of the two. Say +14V with the alternator running. There is no way you can have 12V + 14V (26V) on that line. The battery and alternator would have to be hooked up in a series circuit to obtain that.
__________________
AMX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2008, 02:07 PM   #14
Registered Member
 
VetteOwner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,546
Country: United States
it does screw up the amps for a split second which its all it takes to fry the hairline circuit board paths...
VetteOwner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2008, 02:51 PM   #15
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,111
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to dkjones96
Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteOwner View Post
it does screw up the amps for a split second which its all it takes to fry the hairline circuit board paths...
Can't do that either.

I=Current E=Volts R=Resistance
I=E/R

The resistances through the electrical system will remain constant. Unless voltage goes higher you won't get more current through the circuit and you won't get fried electronics. Think of it this way. The battery in our cars can easily supply 250+ amps but all of that current potential means nothing if the resistance doesn't drop or the voltage doesn't spike like crazy.

Once the car is started it's best to think of the battery as a filter capacitor of sorts. It is really only there to even out small spikes and dips from electronics cycling and a backup if a weak alternator can't keep up. Car will run fine without it but it's better to have it.
__________________
- Kyle
dkjones96 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2008, 12:19 PM   #16
Registered Member
 
VetteOwner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,546
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkjones96 View Post
Can't do that either.

I=Current E=Volts R=Resistance
I=E/R

The resistances through the electrical system will remain constant. Unless voltage goes higher you won't get more current through the circuit and you won't get fried electronics. Think of it this way. The battery in our cars can easily supply 250+ amps but all of that current potential means nothing if the resistance doesn't drop or the voltage doesn't spike like crazy.

Once the car is started it's best to think of the battery as a filter capacitor of sorts. It is really only there to even out small spikes and dips from electronics cycling and a backup if a weak alternator can't keep up. Car will run fine without it but it's better to have it.
doh yea i had a brain fart...but yes its true the battery does soften out the spikes from fans kicking on, AC cyciling, etc...
VetteOwner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 05:02 AM   #17
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 139
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to jeep45238
I'm a nuts and bolts guy - I'm not a big electronics fella. All I can speak of is from personal experience when some schmoe playing mechanic does the old generator test of popping off the positive lead from the battery, and then puts it back on. They tend to come in needing a new computer if they've got a healthy alternator and battery about 40% of the time. My only advice about this is that theory is just that - it doesn't always work out in real life.

It's very easy to load test an alternator and battery without popping off the positive lead from the battery - you just have to have a multimeter.
__________________
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well armed sheep contesting that decision.

jeep45238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 08:54 PM   #18
Registered Member
 
Snax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 758
Country: United States
Sheesh, not one of you has actually addressed the possible energy savings from switching to LED lighting.

746 watts = 1 horsepower

So even if you could drop 100W of consumption from the electrical system, which really equates to more like 125W worth of draw from the motor when figuring an 80% alternator efficiency, you are still only reducing the load by about 0.17 HP.

That's not much and would probably never payback against the cost of the LEDs, so efficiency is no reason to do it.
__________________
LiberalImage.com

I think, therefore I doubt.
Snax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2008, 09:24 PM   #19
Site Team / Moderator
 
Jay2TheRescue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,657
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
Well, LED's are usually brighter, and are long lasting - they'll probably outlast most cars. Great for bulbs that you can't get to easily. For example the front turn signal lamps are a pain to get to on Rusty and I had considered installing LED modules when I put that aluminum grille in it 10 years ago just so I'd never have to take it apart again. Efficiency alone is not a reason to do it, but could be a contributing factor for replacement.

-Jay
__________________






Jay2TheRescue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 10:01 AM   #20
Registered Member
 
VetteOwner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,546
Country: United States
theres a flaw to saying LED being brighter, remember LED's are very directional on thier light output, standard bulbs throw equal light in nearly all directions, auto manufacturers design the taillamp housing so it reflects the light that goes backwards out towards the rear and everywhere inside the housing. thus lighting all of it up and easily see even in bright sunlight. those LED bulbs you just plug into the socket typically shine mostly backwards(some have a few LED's radially mounted) so really your getting a brighter light but only in a concentrated spot, the light doesnt really bounce off the reflector to fill the entire lamp housing.

now if you make your own boards that do fill the entire housing then yes they would be brighter. or the cars that come standard with LED tailights, those are also designed to be seen from the side, corner, and straight back.

i dunno even about hard to get to lights being a reason to buy them, really how often does a bulb burn out? i think ive blown a brake light and a turn signal bulb but its taken a very long time to do so.
__________________

VetteOwner is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TIME field missing in Add a fuel-up machapelle Fuelly Web Support and Community News 5 08-19-2011 09:54 AM
Gm's Volt (i did a search) korax123 General Fuel Topics 6 07-26-2007 07:02 AM
Save $$$ on Wood Carving you didn't buy. CO ZX2 General Discussion (Off-Topic) 5 06-03-2007 12:56 PM
compressed air car MetroMPG Electric and Solar powered 7 04-09-2006 11:59 PM
Any ideas how to install this? Compaq888 General Maintenance and Repair 0 12-21-2005 01:46 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.