I'm running the DC Controller on my truck, also ran it on my Tahoe. Worked flawlessly 2 years on the Tahoe, then sold it along with the electric fan package when I sold the Tahoe. So far as I know it's still working. Had the second unit on for the last year, it is showing a little green corrosion but I think that's more due to where it's installed than anything else, as the Tahoe showed no corrosion at all.
Nice thing about the DC control unit is by monitoring the radiator outlet temp, it can use the fans to control the temp of the water entering the engine after the fans have cooled the water. This means the temps won't fluxuate nearly as much as they will taking the water temp at other places like the thermostat outlet.
One thing I'd suggest (and have yet to do myself) is set the AC control wire up with an extra relay that is normally closed. Run the control tap through the torque converter lockup control wire. This way, when the TC locks up it will kill power to the DC controller's air conditioning tap, which will shut off the electric fans. If you are going fast enough to lock the TC then you are getting enough air across the condenser, and there is no need for the additional load from the fans.
The DC Control unit is an excellent piece, and I'm a hard man to please so if I'm giving it a thumbs up, it's got to be good.
Good to hear others having success with the DC Controls product. I did read a lot of good things about them before I ordered mine, just wish it was here today. Its my Friday off and I'd like to be working on this....
Thats a terrific idea to use the TQ lockup signal to interrupt the A/C fan line! I had been thinking about using a manual switch which would be better than nothing but having it automated would be the best! Time to break out the shop manual!
After waiting three weeks for the DC control unit and not one email returned from there web site I was getting worried.. I finally tracked down the guy that makes them on another forum since he absolutely never replies to emails.
Seems that he's making them by hand these days and the wait is darn near forever. He's running close to two Months behind.
In the past he had a vendor making the units for him but they will only build surface mount devices now and his unit does not use surface mount components... There are lots of unhappy customers out there these days due to his lack of support and slow delivery.
So I got a refund and went with a Spal fan controler unit I've been reading good things about. http://www.spalusa.com/
The Spal can use your existing temp gauge sensor as an input for a temperature reading but I do not want to control the fan based on engine temp. I want to control the fan based on radiator outlet temp. So I also ordered a separate temp sensor from Spal. My original plan was to tap some threads in an a aluminum pipe that extends from the top of the thermostat housing but the sensor is 3/8npt and just too darn long for that (the picture had a very short sensor tip, the actual unit is .5"). On to plan B, I'm going to cut the sensor out the brass fitting and rig a clamp on temp sensor for the same pipe.
Time to crank up the Dremel....
i noticed a 2-3mpg increase when i installed my efan in my s-10. got the fan for free out of a late 80's cavileer with the 2.2L and just went to autozone and got thier universal temperature switch. its just a temp probe and a variable switch. so you can control when you want the fan to be on by the turn of a dial. only costs $17 and comes with alot of wire.
Nothing like pictures! So heres a few of my clamp on temp sensor.
Darn probe was too long to go into the pipe I wanted to install it.
Bit of Dremel action and I removed the temperature sensor, notice the white heat sink compound all over the sensor.
Made a brass clamp to fit the pipe I'm going to clamp this on and soldered on a small bit of copper tubing to hold the temperature sensor. Its a clamp on Thermo-well. The heat sink compound goes into the well then the probe then lots of the Marine 5200. That Marine 5200 dries to car tire toughness and does not come off!
Its not a beauty but its going to work. I covered the whole thing with the 5200 to serve as insulation as well as too hold the wires in place. The plastic connector was sealed by wrapping electrical tape and filling with 5200.
Nope, its not complete. I ran into one tiny problem. It don't fit.
I have the Spall fan controller mounted and wired up ready to go. Next I installed the electric fan into the old shroud and it was looking good. Then the next thing to do was to remove the old fan clutch. Well thats when I had a wee bit of a problem! Turns out there is a shaft that sticks out about 1" from the center of the water pump into the fan clutch. I did not have enough room to slide the new shrowd/fan assembly with that pesky shaft sticking out.
It would have fit if I removed the radiator and mounted the new fan then reinstall the radiator but thats not something I want to do every time I need to work on something... I don't like half a$$ installations..
At this point I'm looking for some sheet metal or aluminum if its rigid enough to make my own custom shroud. This way I can offset the electric fan so its not directly inline with the water pump shaft.