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Old 11-13-2008, 03:47 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by dkjones96 View Post
JanGeo, how does the cylinder look bad? We cleaned off the buildup at the upper part of the cylinder and it felt smooth all the way down. What you see at the top was just carbon buildup where the rings don't scrape. We aren't doing a hone on it because the bottom end isn't getting torn down. It seriously doesn't need it. It's within 5psi of factory specs for compression.

If I was going to rebuild that bottom end I could just re-hone that cylinder and use OEM spec rings in it. There is THAT little worn away.
You need to dial indicate the bore diameter so really see if there is wear. Even a couple of thousands of an inch will cause ring movement in the piston grooves resulting in some loss of compression and additional wear. Not sure if you should still be seeing the cross hatches from the original honing or not but I would think they should have polished out if the engine was broken in properly and you should see a very slick and shiny bore.

One thing that Synlube does is to fill in the bore pores in the metal with solid lubricant particles reducing the friction and improving the ring seal for less blowby and better compression.
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:51 PM   #32
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I'm guessing that if I wanted to buy Synlube that you are a dealer for it?
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:24 PM   #33
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Well here are at least the main reasons for using synthetic oils:

1) Reduced viscosity variance. It lubricates like oil that is up to temperature when cold without overly thinning at operating temperature.

2) It does not break down when exposed to carbon or fuel compounds like conventional oil.

3) It does not break down from excessive heat.

Those three things work to significantly extend the life of the oil and the motor. Wear is reduced, the oil lubricates better longer, and regular filter changes are sufficient to remove most particlated contaminants.

The bottom line is that it lasts at least twice as long as dino oil, and in a particularly clean running motor, can go even longer before breaking down enough to warrant a change. I personally draw the line at about 15,000 miles, but I can't say it should not be used longer.
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:16 AM   #34
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I'm guessing that if I wanted to buy Synlube that you are a dealer for it?
nope - you have to buy it driect from the manufacturer in fact they will not even sell it to you until you talk to Miro the President of the company to make sure you are getting the correct products. But they do pay a referral fee to anyone that recommends a customer including yourself and if you purchase a complete lube package which in my case was engine filter, magnets, engine, tranny, and PS Fluid you get an instant discount. It works great and when I take the filler cap off there is nothing under it by a little Synlube, no foam or water to speak of.
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:26 AM   #35
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nope - you have to buy it driect from the manufacturer in fact they will not even sell it to you until you talk to Miro the President of the company to make sure you are getting the correct products. But they do pay a referral fee to anyone that recommends a customer including yourself and if you purchase a complete lube package which in my case was engine filter, magnets, engine, tranny, and PS Fluid you get an instant discount. It works great and when I take the filler cap off there is nothing under it by a little Synlube, no foam or water to speak of.
Do they have a website?

I am still skeptical about this, EVEN IF the oil doesn' need to be changed, what about the oil filter? Never seen an oil filter that lasts 100k myself.
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:27 AM   #36
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Seeing the factory cross hatching at 100K miles is a very good thing. The hatch marks are actually tiny scratches in the bore that are meant to hold oil. Seeing them lets you know that the cylinder walls have not yet worn down to the depth of those scratches. The hone marks and your good compression readings make me think that your engine is in good shape.
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:33 AM   #37
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Do they have a website?

I am still skeptical about this, EVEN IF the oil doesn' need to be changed, what about the oil filter? Never seen an oil filter that lasts 100k myself.
http:\\www.Synlube.com what else would it be? heh heh
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:35 AM   #38
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Seeing the factory cross hatching at 100K miles is a very good thing. The hatch marks are actually tiny scratches in the bore that are meant to hold oil. Seeing them lets you know that the cylinder walls have not yet worn down to the depth of those scratches. The hone marks and your good compression readings make me think that your engine is in good shape.
Ring wear would be a better indicator . . . I will check with my engine expert brother on the cross hatch marks still being there though.
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:39 AM   #39
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Well typically, excessive ring wear goes hand in hand with piston skirt and bore wear - but it is possible to have rings that look good when the bore is fairly torn up.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:01 AM   #40
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What about semi-synthetics? I assume they are sort of in the middle between conventional oil and full synthetics as far as benefits to the engine as well as length between changes are concerned?
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