From what I have read on the internet it is only second to the synthetic vs. normal oil debate in volume of pages and opinions that vary.
i was thinking more about how its not keeping the gears lubricated.
the same reason why you cant tow an auto on the drive wheels....u'll loose your tranny by the time you get there! saturns had a disengauge feature, and then became the 'towing vehicle of choice'... for those wiht trailers that tow thier cars behind.
Unbelievably, my F350 diesel has a valve in the exhaust line that partially closes when the engine is cold! This makes the engine work harder and warm up faster. My cold weather FE sucks because of this.
Man, I believe you. Some BMWs have it too!!!
Anyway, I think it's mainly because of the auto, which is certainly an obstacle to overcome. Me, I'd still be gettin ~40 mpg if I were driving auto. Hopefully zpiloto will speak up with some of his killer auto charm.
IIRC, coasting in N for a short period of time, engine on or off, will not produce enough friction to damage the gearsets or TC. Towing the vehicle for hundreds of miles is another story.
For those with problems getting into closed loop and TC lockup, the fastest and easiest solution is an OEM Engine Block Heater (EBH). It works wonders for me in the Winter, even when parked in the garage. You'll notice a difference almost immediately, and you'll appreciate the instant toastiness of the cabin heater as well
Your pretty limited with an auto. Your commute owns you if it's not friendly there is not much you can do about it. It might not be the coasting it might be the acceleration. Note your shift points and the FE at each one so you can use the best speed for the condtions. My madza get better mileage with rapid acceleration to the final shift, which happens around 45mph and the Honda van with slow acceleration. Set up a mile course accelerate slow to 55 and fast to 55 and see which one gives you the best milage at the mile point. If you can take different routes you can use start exploring. Until I got the SG what I thought was the best route was actually the worst. . For me I found route that allowed me to keep the speed aound 45 which after the final shift gives good FE. On the hilly part drive with the SG on Load and while your climbing let it bleed off as much as the folks behind will let you. Most of all it's a on going process and takes time to get good at it. Don't be afraid to experiment with stuff what works on some cars dosen't on others. Testing and experiments kills the FE but it pays off in the long run. Good luck and keep after it.
Your pretty limited with an auto...On the hilly part drive with the SG on Load and while your climbing let it bleed off as much as the folks behind will let you. Most of all it's a on going process and takes time to get good at it. Don't be afraid to experiment with stuff what works on some cars dosen't on others. Testing and experiments kills the FE but it pays off in the long run. Good luck and keep after it.
I completely agree. You have to have some sort of instant feedback like a ScanGuage to actually see the results of your experimentation, or to collect trends over a tank. I've really been getting into the constant pedal pressure technique on hills -- building-up momentum going down, keeping the TPS steady, and ascend the hill with the same FE (albeit slowing down a bit). Every car is different even with identical models, years, and features, so general rules can guide you to what works for your vehicle.
If you are coasting in neutral in an automatic keep the engine running - the seals are lubricated by the oil and can burn out really fast if the engine is not keeping everything presurized and lubricated. Shifting back into gear in an auto make sure you are going slow and give it some gas to match the rpm for the speed. Remember you can alway just keep it in gear and give it a little less gas yet keep it moving forward - a little gas saved will not pay for a transmission overhaul.
Yup a warmer car runs a lot better than a cold car - my first mile is killer when cold - go real easy on the gas pedal - most of the fuel is going into heating the engine and transmission.
Block heater BE REALLY CAREFUL if you put ANYTHING into the cooling system. Toyota coolant is really sensative to metal contamination and can cause corrosion if messed with like adding regular water instead of distilled.
Our cars are the same except for the transmission (i'm sure I am the one you are referring to who got >50mpg in an 8 mile trip). What I did to do that is accelerate at maybe 15% throttle to 2000 rpm in each gear before shifting. I would get up to speed (35 in a neighborhood or 60 on the highway) and then coast for a while in N, repeat. That was with a "cold" (40C) engine at the start. I think the auto trans may be the biggest influence.
I checked my scanguage calibration today and it is right on out of the box. I put in 9.88 gallons and SG said I used 9.9 gallons.
My friend likes my car and is thinking about buying one just like it but with auto transmission. If he does buy one we can do a similar trip and compare fuel usage.
Toyota makes a block heater just for our engine, it's part 00213-00885. I've found it for about $50 online. I just don't want to leave it plugged in all the time. What I save in fuel I would be spending in electricity (probably more). I wonder if they are thermostatically controlled.