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Old 09-17-2006, 01:06 AM   #31
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Hello -

You can get these :



Here :

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003419/c-10101

Or at a Pep Boys or equivalent. They seem to be 7 bucks for two, which can compress one spring, so the test would set you back 28 bucks plus tax.

My car expert told me that this is fine for a temporary test, but not a permanent solution. Someone else said to be carefull not to scratch the springs when you do this (to avoid weakening them?).

Zip Ties sound cool too, but maybe you would risk scratching the spring when you try to cut them off. Would you melt them off? I wouldn't like to be in the wheelwell trying to get them off when they go "SNAP!".

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Old 09-17-2006, 01:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Someone pointed out to me recently that I really ought to test the aero mods at higher speeds. Since drag rises with the square of velocity (did I say that right - I understand the concept perfectly, but always feel like I'm saying it backwards), for purposes of measurement, I'd be better off going faster in the tests since the difference (if there is one) will stand out better from the normal noise of variability.

They're right. The only reason I don't, is because I don't drive faster than 55. And I want to know actual readings, rather than extrapolating down from a higher speed. I should probably reconsider.
This makes alot of sense for the purpose of a test. If you can prove an improvement, then you can justify the change.

I wish I could get away with driving at or below 55 all the time. They'd shoot me on the 710 .

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Old 09-17-2006, 05:18 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfg83

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003419/c-10101

Or at a Pep Boys or equivalent. They seem to be 7 bucks for two, which can compress one spring, so the test would set you back 28 bucks plus tax.

My car expert told me that this is fine for a temporary test, but not a permanent solution. Someone else said to be carefull not to scratch the springs when you do this (to avoid weakening them?).

CarloSW2
I've had these on a car to lower it for at least 2 yrs...no problems. Now have some to raise it...on my wagon for about 3 yrs/30K miles. Used this offraod on rough trails. The ends are soft steel...won't scratch the springs.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:29 AM   #34
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I would not do the test.

IMO this cant be done with safty in mind at all. Those spring claps break. Ive seen them shoot out from under cars more than once.

Also your struts have worn into a area of travel they see the most. Changing that area of travel by lowering it may well cause a strut of two to fail.

All that being said: I have seen folks use chain to hold a compressed suspension in place for testing. The trick is to find a place high in the frame or unibody for the upper mpunt point. Then wrap the chain around a lower control arm with a peice of rubber to protect the compnent from the beating it will take from the chain.

Good luck. OOOO and wear a helment.... lolololololo
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:01 PM   #35
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I think that if you do end up doing a lowering test. you need to consider alignment issues. Height changes will rearrange you toe, camber etc...


If you could get ahold of some cheap coilovers, i would spring ( not pun intended) for them. You can usually find these for around $100 on ebay, not sure if they have them for your car, i doubt it, but you may be able to rig up someething in your car, depending on the spring rates.


I know some alignment shops here will do a complete alignment where you can come back and get it aligned as much as you want for 6 months afterwards all for like $120 with a warranty.

that would get you pretty close to a consistent A-B-A Test.
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