i took the electrical connector loose and cleaned it, then cleared the codes. so far it hasn't come back on. i scheduled it for an oil change and service for next week. the guy on the phone said they would take a look at it, no charge.
You may want to check the gas cap after a ride to see if you get a little pressure building up in the gas tank. You should get some pressure right after a ride but not too long afterwards. You could have a bad cap seal or you may have fixed it with the connector you cleaned. Keep us posted as I am almost half way to that mileage - makes me glad I bought the extended warrenty but I would like to not use it so I can get that $1000 back in 5 years.
Actually, just running round with your gas cap loose might have caused that on some cars.
Edit: doh, he mentioned checking for that.
I remember The RoadWarrior..To understand who he was, you have to go back to another time..the world was powered by the black fuel & the desert sprouted great cities..Gone now, swept away..two mighty warrior tribes went to war & touched off a blaze which engulfed them all. Without fuel, they were nothing..thundering machines sputtered & stopped..Only those mobile enough to scavenge, brutal enough to pillage would survive. The gangs took over the highways, ready to wage war for a tank of juice
Naa I doubt that is the problem - I have had the gas flowing on the ground on my Scion xB and never had a problem with my emmissions lights - most people get a single light and error code when the gas cap gets loose and he got three so it probably was the connector. Had some rain and high water down there recently?? Drive through any big puddles?
1. First, check if the gas cap is a factory gas cap and it is tight.
2. If the fuel cap is good, then check the vacuum line to the purge solenoid located by the air filter plastic housing. If the lines are loose or pulled off, the code will set.
3. Next verify that the purge solenoid operates with the engine running. Back probe and ground the White/Green wire at the purge solenoid and verify that it will operate and apply vacuum to the canister assembly.
4. Test the canister closed valve on the canister, it has a Black/Red wire and a Blue wire. There should be battery voltage on the Black/Red wire key on and when the Blue wire is back probed and grounded, the valve should operate and close tight enough so the system can hold a vacuum. If all the valves test OK, test for a leak on the evaporative system.