I like the mods. What's your MPG? Which mod did you notice the most MPG gains from? Did you notice any difference when you grounded out the engine? Out of all the mods that one seems like it would be the easiest for me to do.
Headlights were aftermarket jobs someone had installed in a 93' civic sedan. They weren't factory from any other car, but they are more directional than stock. Same wattage (55watts each) but half the weight and twice as aerodynamically efficient.
I'll get some measurements later today; it's been busy here!
If you look in my garage, my average is 56. My latest best tank was 60, but I had a bad one of 51 the other day. I had to replace the gas tank this week. I was smelling gas worse everyday until I did. I think it was leaking before that time too, since by the time you smell it, there's copious amounts of it leaking already. I'll update the gas log in a couple of tanks.
Best gains? I don't really have time for ABA testing of the aero mods. Overall, when coasting I feel a difference in how long it will coast down given hills. I recently installed an engine cut off switch and at some points in my route can coast (mostly light downhill grades) more than 2.5 miles in places.
Cleaning the injectors seemed to help a lot of things; idle, hesitation, mpg's, etc. Nothing that I can directly quantify because I'm doing stuff all the time and it takes 500 miles or more to fill the tank.
Grounds did little. It's cumulative. If you're grounds are shot (which seems common), it can help. Mine weren't bad but extra grounds can't hurt. It was a free mod for me as I had all the connectors, distribution block, and wires from old car audio projects. If nothing else, I did measure the coil's ability to jump a gap; I stuffed a lead into the number one plug wire and ran it to the cabin for testing, did the same with one of those ground leads coming from the block side. The spark was able to jump 9/16ths of an inch or more. It was pretty impressive. For obvious reasons of damage to the coil, do not ever do this without keeping those two wires touching until you are actually testing. You need to give the coil a place for that voltage to go or you will burn it up.
BTW, it appears the new spectra h09 tank from advance is 13.5 gallons instead of 10.
Oh and the internal grill block was huge in terms of keeping the engine warmer with less grill opening. The air coming in was simply going around the radiator until i did this. Since the cheapo 02 sensor I bought (and am going to replace when I have the cash) seems to have a failed or failing heater, I need to keep the front of the block as warm as possible. (mostly for EOCoasting)
I can now reduce the opening to a small 2" hole and no increase in cooling fan operation. It almost never turns on now.
DIMENSIONS OF CAMMBACK:
18" from the car to the end of the cammback. This dimension makes it stick back to almost exactly the same dimension as the back bumper. If you put a long straight edge vertically with the bottom touching the bumper and the top touching the end of the cammback, it's pretty close to plumb.
The only other dimension that will mean anything is the width of the end of the cammback at the bends. The length of the flat section on top is 30 and 1/2". All I did was made a cardboard template out of the old wing/the car itself. I put two straight edges on the two roof lines that extended past the end of my cammback. I made marks on the cardboard for where the bends should be and bent the edges/cut it. It took some doing, fabrication took a couple of hours on the cardboard as I had to re-do it once. It's also surprisingly a big piece when it's not bent up.
Any other dimensions I can give you? What's not obvious in the picture is an LED "running" light in the center of the camback behind the bracket. If you look closely you'll see it. It replaces the missing third brake light that was in the original wing.
How did you attach the grill block? I've got some sheet metal cut to size, but I'm not sure how to secure it. It looks like you used a rivet gun, but I can't figure out how you got it to work in such a tight space.
I also want to install some rear skirts. (I think that's what they're called) How did you go about attaching those, and what dimensions did you use?
The internal grill block is attached with sheet metal screws (hex head). The one screw hooked to the sheet metal behind the hood latch had to be cut after I used it to drill the hole. I used the screw to self tap the hole, then took it out and cut it down to about 1/2".
The external block is all rivets.
The rear skirts are attached with an aluminum frame that supports the bottom. The skirt is riveted to that frame. The frame has a hinge on the front side (side closest to the front of the car) and one bolt on the back side. When the bolt is out, it can be swung out for tire changes.
The top of the skirts each have three machine screws. Inside the fender, I mounted bent, drilled, and tapped aluminum angle iron brackets. The screws attach from the front. So, to change a tire, I need to keep a phillips screw driver and a nut driver/adjustable wrench on board. It's not ideal, but it's really simple to get it hinged out.
Mine is nearly exactly like his... except I used heavy gauge aluminum sheet metal for the panels not ABS plastic. I only did that because I had recently taken apart an old pop-up camper to modify it into an enclosed trailer and that netted me with tons of this sheet metal. That's what my cammback is made of too.
Oh, as for dimensions, I just made a cardboard template. The frame was a "wing it" experience. Guess and check is your friend!