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Old 08-31-2006, 10:01 AM   #11
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[QUOTE=rh77]Well, I considered trading it in on a CRX, but got vetoed from the other branch of legislature

When I'm refilling, I'm talking about filling the radiator with about a half-gallon, then the rest into the reservoir tank, letting it run and vent the air, etc. I do have the hotter, 190F thermostat installed, but that shouldn't cause the problem.

It is always wise to consider and respect the other branch of the legislature.

If your losing 1/2 gallon, their is something wrong and it's not just the codfishing that is causing the problem. I have an 87 Civic which I have been having difficulties with for quite some time. It would test fine in sitting, letting it heat up, fan's coming on and so forth. It woldn't exhibit a problem until it was driven warm, up a hill, in heat condition's. It would be fine and then all of a sudden it the temperature would go up and not come back down, properly. Invariably it would be a quart or so low on water/antifreeze in the radiator.

I finally found what was causing the problem was my radiator core had gotten really weak, and a mounting bracket was not secure. Apparently it would only lose a modest amount of water, under pressure, over a period of time. It would get a little low, then the thermostat wouldn't be covered in water, so the thermostat wouldn't open and then the heat would climb rapidly and put more pressure, causing more water loss. I got a replacement radiator and it seem's to have addressed the issue or problem.

I would suggest getting the cooling system pressure tested, my guess would be you have a small, pressure related leak, which isn't obvious. Good Luck.

p.s. On the Civic it has a bleed screw, which I have to use, to get all of the air out of the cooling system. The radiator sit's very low, relative to the head of the motor, so if their is any air in the system, it get's in the head and sometimes dosen't allow the thermostat to open, properly. until I bleed that air out, nothing really behaves itself properly, in the cooling system.
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Get an electrical water pump, dude!
Oh, ye of little MacGyver-ness.
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:27 AM   #13
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Why not an electric powered alternator?
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Old 08-31-2006, 11:01 AM   #14
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Powered by wheel generators!
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Old 08-31-2006, 11:07 AM   #15
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Or a wind turbine mounted on a big honkin rear wing spoiler.
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Old 09-01-2006, 12:51 AM   #16
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Stopped doing engine off coasting with my manual. Auto and the manual I got now. Whenever I turned off the engine it still ran. So I had to turn the key all the way off but then it wouldn't show my mileage. So what's the point of coasting with an engine off and the odometer not working.

I didn't know the temps spike with the engine off. Now I'm definetly not going to do it. 50mpg can be achieved with the engine on.

RH my advice is stop with this engine off thing, because it clearly looks like it's the culprit and your engine is not handling it that well.
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Old 09-01-2006, 07:35 AM   #17
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Crapola.

Crapola!

I get the CODFISHING down to a science in an automatic, and now it's potentially causing problems. I'll have to try engine-on coasts and see if it still loses the coolant. If so, I'll have to get it checked-out before Winter. Buggah.

I'm pretty sure it isn't the head gasket or any other sealed locale, except maybe the corner of the rad sprung a leak. The odd thing is, the temp gauge doesn't move at all, once it's up to operating temp range (170-210F).

At any rate, I agree with McGyver Metro. You could rig-up something that runs the entire accessory belt-driven components on the momentum of the turning wheels. As far as the water pump, mine is driven by the timing belt, which is a tricky deal. This has just been a tough car for GasSavers applications

I'll try the bleed-screw thing also -- Teggy could have some gas...

RH77
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:04 AM   #18
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Are you shutting down the engine after heavy throttle use before the engine has a chance to cool the heat traveling through the metal of the engine - that can cause delayed temperature rise and a lot of thermal stress. Really back for Turbo driven engines - the oil cooling the bearings gets cooked by the heat of the turbine before the turbine has a chance to cool down. You probably have a hose or pinhole in the radiator and the fans are blowing it around when they kick in at elevated temperatures.
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rh77
Crapola!

The odd thing is, the temp gauge doesn't move at all, once it's up to operating temp range (170-210F).

RH77
My gauge doesn't move once it get to 170 and the temp can goes as high as 218 in traffic and the thing never budges. I guess if it moved around with the temps people whould think it's broke If it ever moves to the high side of normal then it most be getting really hot.
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:28 AM   #20
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This is for another car...but yours is likley about the same....

If you have questions about coolant loss, you need to do the following:

* Check your rad cap for leaks. Replace it?

* Check the gasket UNDER the thing that the cap fits onto...a brass part.

* Check the condition of the small brass pipe (on the brass thing) that connects to the hose going to your coolant overflow tank...it can corrode seriously. I soldered a soft copper tube over mine and reconnected the rubber hose.

* Be sure the hose to the coolant tank isn't blocked and also check the inlet in the bottom of the tank...this can happen if stop leak has been used. Remove the tank and clean it & the hose out with water pressure.

* When done....use a permanent marker to mark your COLD COOLANT LEVEL when the car has sat overnight, so you can keep close track of any coolant loss cold....before starting it up.

* If you rule out coolant loss from the cap to the coolant tank, then you can tell if there is a loss elsewhere...and you will have an accurate idea of HOW MUCH COOLANT YOU ARE LOSING.

* You can use a flashlight to check for leaks around the waterpump, and top front of engine, & back between the valve covers. Also check heater hoses and radiator hoses and the radiator. Best bet is to do this just as the engine temp first gets near the center area on the temp gauge, when it's not so hot that the coolant totally vaporizes...you can still see small leaks. A flashlight allows you to concentrate on a small area.

* Symptoms of a blown head gasket: Start car COLD with cap off and coolant visible...look for a small stream of bubbles...if you see any, this is probably an exhaust into coolant leak. If you get serious bubbling in the resevoir when the car is hot and it overheats, this pretty much confirms it. I would replace the thermostat first & "burp" it, before removing the heads though.
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