This is a lonnnnnngggggggg term project, because I am going to be incrementally adding the components and seeing what happens. Here is the hydrogen booster from hydrogen-boost.com, installed in front of the front driver's wheel. The white plastic tube is the water trap for catching booster overflow :
This is the simple wiring relay, bolted above the front driver's wheel :
This the hydrogen output tube exiting into the airbox (it has since been routed vertically, closer to the filter) :
This is the Ammeter with the on-switch on the right :
I hate to be the one to tell you this Carlos... the energy required to extract the hydrogen is greater than the energy recovered. Neither the extractor or the engine are %100 efficient.
Now, now ! Don't be telling the man textbook "bits & pieces"!
cfg83, if you'll contact me (via PM), I'll tell you what I've found about water VAPOR injection systems. There is an engine "change" you have to make when extracting this power.
Use the driving techniques the hydrogen boost promoters 'require' to extract the maximum mileage out the using these reverse electrolysis water seperators and you'll get MORE mileage than using the same driving techniques WITH the device in operation.
They do thank you for your financial support of their operation.
Now here are other reasons why it may not work for me :
1 - I don't drive a diesel. The system has been proven to work best in high compression diesel engines.
2 - I may or may not implement all of the changes. It depends on my mechanic and such.
For me, this is an experiment where I *expect* derision. However, I have done my homework, and I want to see it for myself. I have already accepted the possibility of defeat. But, at least I will have tried.
Yeah I have been thinking about this also and would run a separate battery system to power it that can be charged on the grid or when going down hill when extra alternator output is available without burning fuel to recharge the separate battery. It is supposed to act as a fuel enhansement much like acetone - not as a energy source to replace gasoline.
(System not yet charged, aka I am testing the initial electrolyte batch for Amperage draw)
While sitting in the parkng lot with the car at Idle, the Scangauge value for LOD for my car is 18. When I turn the gizmo on, it draws 30 Amps and the LOD increases to 21. I have been told to shoot for 20 Amps, which would imply a LOD increase of 2 (right?). This means I will have to weaken the concentration.
A 30 Amp draw is the same as what my Electric cooling fan is rated for, so it is the same as keeping the fan on all the time (my poor battery ).
Question : How many Amps would a "maximum LED" transition for my car net for me? The idea being that if I transition to LEDs, I would reduce that LOD value. My car has DRL (Daytime Running Lights), so I have to see what they draw (or disable them, which I think is not a legal issue). I *think* DRLs would be LED candidates.
I'm basing my opinion of H2 Injection from The Mythbusters program on The Discovery Channel (or TLC, I forget) -- they tested this mod and busted it. You should look up the episode -- they tested magnets, Acetone, etc.
Sorry to be the gloomy-gus, but the system didn't generate enough Hydrogen to fill a balloon. They then took a tank of hydrogen and blew it directly into the carb on the test car. It backfired and caught the end of the hose on fire.
Also engine damage: the corrosive action of introducing pure oxygen or hydrogen into a modern engine will corrode critical engine components (I think it's magnesium that tends to go first).