i have read (can't remember where) that OEM tires (like i have) are different than aftermarket replacement tires of the exact same brand & model. the original tires are supposedly more lightly built and may return better fuel economy.
the original tires are supposedly more lightly built and may return better fuel economy.
anyone else heard this?
I know lots of people that buy OEM tires for vehicles 5+ years old. The problem is that today, on the average of every 2 years, breakthroughs in tire technology yield lower rolling resistance, better traction, handling, etc. I'm sure that the OEM tires will become less expensive until they become rare, then an alternative will be the only option. As far as weight, that may be a misnomer.
For me, my personal research has shown that simply for improved safety (wet and snow) in addition to better economy and handling, I'll find the newer design that fits and put OEM behind me. I've never used OEM as a replacement tire on 8 vehicles over the years.
I've noticed that alot of new cars come with tires that have a low wear life, and that they are normaly a cheap tire, why? because very few people are going to complane about having to replace their tires after a few years, it's one of those normal things you do with a car, so very few people notice cheaper tires, of course some of them are also chosen because they boost the MPG by just enough to get that EPA rating knocked up a notch, either by useing a harder rubber, or making them out of less rubber and steel belting, but I've noticed a number of OEM tires that have a wear life in the area of 180-240 and look at what else is avlible in that size and they are in the 380-440 wear life...
damn its funny scangauge has the same distance in the trip view when comparing to my car's tripA(reset when filling) odometer. So I'm pretty sure my car's odometer is still regestering after keying off but I'm having the delay that metrompg used to have before although not as long (5 seconds). But still that's enough to mess up data if you do it enough. What I also noticed when I switch data from km to miles and litres to gallons, the conversions work out all right except for gallons which still show an awfuly big number since it wasn't touched at all.
Setting the hybrid mode on the scangauge at least it won't turn off, but data still freezes... distance is still recorded but fuel economy trip resumes after 5 seconds later skewing the data. Hopefully recalcuating by hand will save the day. Bleh how hard can a kill switch be? am I going to be running into any problems if I have an engine immobilizer?
If your reading this, then good for you, your saving some gas because your here.
actually you should pop the clutch quickly then push it back in to just give the engine a spin to start in a high gear then shift to a lower gear to match the rpm to speed. Just letting it out can be hard on the gears if the engine rpm is too low to run smoothly.
Yes, as long as the ignition is on. I kill the ignition to coast and then switch back on immediatly (as soon as the engine dies) so the odo/speedo will record distance. You can clutch start any time after turning the ignition back on.