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Old 06-02-2007, 11:55 PM   #31
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Lol! Well there were TONS of Dodge/Plymouth Neons bought new in the mid to late 90s, so that's probably why you can get them cheap now: Lots of people bought them new, but they aren't nearly as popular used.

I found an AutoTrader dating back to 1998 and found a 1995 Geo Metro similar to mine for $6999. It's been nearly 10 years since and those same Metros are going for $2500+ these days. Not bad depreciation.

But back to the topic: Maybe the Hummer H2 will be found in collector's garages & museums in 25 years time? Definitely a pop-culture icon of the early 2000s.
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Old 06-03-2007, 11:56 AM   #32
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I appreciate everyone's comments and can understand and take the hostility. I also appreciate the tips from some of you who I am sure will help.

As for a previous question, the car is supposed to have a tire pressure of 37psi. Would it be safe (if I keep these tires on) to go up to 50 psi? I know it will help with gas but it may be unsafe for road handling.

Again, thanks for all the comments and can understand the hostility of some. That is why I am trying to improve the gas mileage by discussing it on this web site and researching any available tools to improve mpg.

Thanks Again!
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Old 06-03-2007, 12:15 PM   #33
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Are you on the stock sized 315/70 R17? Thats an effective 35"x12"x17" tire. Fairly large even by off road standards. Running at 50psi will help your rolling resistance and help handling some by stiffening the sidewalls. If you are unsure, try incrementing your PSI by say 5, run that setting for a week and see how it feels. If you still feel safe, go 5 more and so on, till you can find a comfortable trade off. I'm running around 40ish PSI in my BFG AT 30x9.5x15s. Recommended is 27psi
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Old 06-03-2007, 12:23 PM   #34
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What are the tire specs? Brand ,size ,load range , max sidewall pressure ,etc? I ask because of the size/weight of the H2 - they may be borderline to overinflate .
Assuming any highway cruising ,I'm betting a belly pan will yield fanatstic results .
Go light on the gas pedal and no idling (as already stated ) and of course consider a small eco friendly vehicle for daily use .Only use the H2 when you really *need* the H2 - you may surprise yourselves in deciding that it isn't needed 99.99% of the time . Best of luck to you, with some serious effort you can get the FE #'s up . Definitely fill out a gas log so others can/will learn .

Welcome to GasSavers !
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Old 06-03-2007, 12:49 PM   #35
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Why not help people, instead of degrading them?
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Old 06-03-2007, 12:51 PM   #36
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Why not help people, instead of degrading them?
I have not figured that one out yet either.
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Old 06-03-2007, 12:56 PM   #37
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I have not figured that one out yet either.
Me? ...
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Old 06-03-2007, 01:01 PM   #38
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As for a previous question, the car is supposed to have a tire pressure of 37psi. Would it be safe (if I keep these tires on) to go up to 50 psi? I know it will help with gas but it may be unsafe for road handling.
I pay more attention to the rated psi on the tires, than the "official" psi listed by the car maker (as the pressure rating on the tires is a somewhat conservative estimate of what the tires can safely handle, whereas the car plaque is just what the auto-maker thought was a good compromise between fuel economy and smoothness of the ride).

So, what's the maximum pressure rating on the tires (i.e. are they 44psi tires, the more expensive 88psi tires, or something else)?

Personally I wouldn't put 50psi into tires only rated for 44psi (although some on this forum have). However, I do feel comfortable putting 42psi into 44psi tires. And if your tires are rated for 88psi, by all means go to whatever you are comfortable with in the 50psi to 80psi range!

NOTE: Any raising of tire pressure will effect road handling, in both positive (more responsiveness) and negative (more "rough ride", and possibly a little harder to control) ways. How safe that extra pressure is (assuming your tires are rated to handle that much pressure), depends a lot on the driver (with some drivers and some vehicles extra pressure may actually be safer, due to the extra responsiveness/control). However, if you find you can't control the car as easily (with the higher pressure), just lower the air pressure back down to where you are comfortable.

For example, on my wife's Civic (with 44psi tires), she starts to really dislike the handling when the air pressure is above 43psi. So our target for that car is in the 41psi - 43psi range. Since the driving behaviors vary with driver, vehicle, and tires used, you will have to find your personal psi target by trial and error (keep raising the pressure until you dislike the handling changes, than back off the psi until you are comfortable with the drive again). The idea is to use the maximum pressure that is still low enough for the tires themselves, as well as being low enough that you are comfortable with the driving behaviors (because the higher the tire pressure the better the fuel economy, but at some point the higher tire pressure can sufficiently affect handling or other factors to be a problem).

NOTE:
From personal experience, I can tell you that driving behaviors start changing more rapidly as you raise tire pressure. So, for example, you might not notice much (driving) difference between 35psi and 37psi, but you might notice a large driving difference between 43psi and 44psi. The idea being, the higher the pressure, the more difference you will notice (in your driving) by just going a little bit higher. So at some point (which varies with the driver, the vehicle, and the tires), you will get to a psi where you really don't want to go any higher (because the driving behavior starts getting worse rapidly, as you raise the tire pressure even more). When you get to that point, just back the pressure off slightly (maybe 2psi) and call it good (as you've now found your personal psi target for that vehicle).
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Old 06-03-2007, 01:30 PM   #39
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Since you have an automatic you need to learn where your shift points are. Cruise at the lowest speed before it down shifts. The speed limits are set so that most of the time you are about 5 mph away fom where it would shift into the next gear. The route makes the mileage. Carefully look at your commute. You would be amazed at the increase in FE just by picking the right route for type of car and transmission set up. The single best FE devise is instanteous feed back. Check into a scan gauge. Keeps us posted.
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Old 06-03-2007, 01:34 PM   #40
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you should really make a gas log and a garage entry so we can watch it go up so you can prove alot of people wrong on this site
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