yes its exactly opposite of putting a b-series in a hatch (civic...etc)...you use the mounts for the engine...the only difference any of the bolt hole spacings between integras and civics in this gen is ZERO !!! lol...the integras have beefier components...but they are all the same dimensions...
the only thing i had to do was use worm clamps on the water inlets
b-series are bigger...and the civic spring clamps didn't fit over the integra hose...
additonal features of the gsr are:
front & rear swaybars
front lower tie bar
beefier springs (heavier motor)
much comfier seats w/ lumbar for the driver
cabin lights above the rearview mirror
and a chime if you leave the lights on
also svoboy...your cx manifold may bolt on to a b7 motor
but the ports are much smaller and may cause a negative effect as the air is about the enter the chamber
possibly good outcome is more swirl atomizing fuel
but it may be too much turbulence creating too big of a wall of air at the transiton right where the fuel is injected...
worth a shot...but also maybe not
the 3-stage is rated up around 50mph hwy or more
it has the same intake as a d16y8/y5 with egr like the y5
what i'm getting at is that it uses a big (relative to cx/vx) throttle body but still achieves the mileage
also it came stock with a 4.058 (think usdm dx/lx) tranny
the cx/vx tranny is much taller gears at 3.25
using the b7 (dx/lx) tranny i have considerably better performance
the cx/vx tranny was too long for the integra...i had acceleration problems
however...my fuel mileage is exactly the same...
i have had 2 different engines in the integra
stock 3-stage (cx tranny had really bad ISB) couldn't break 35mpg
and the blown b7 motor in there now...gets 30-35mpg
all have had their problems while i get a good engine ready...
i attribute the 3-stage directly to improper timing
all the usdm 96+ civics call for 12° base
i have an obd1 car using a chipped p28 with obd1 maps set at 16°
which makes perfect sense in retrospect
cant wait to get her back in...
though i have another block combination i might try first...doh
the y5 is the usdm civic hx which get about 42mpg - its a 1.6 L
but has the vtec-e technology
the y5 cam actually has more lift than the y8...
but it uses roller rockers which probably offsets the ratio in the favor of more lift on the y8
the 3-stage has more lift (on the wild lobe) than the y8 as well
but it doesn't use roller rockers...
like all the other vtec d15b's it puts out 130ps (about 127hp)
the same as the 1.6L engines...but peak comes in 200rpm below redline at 7000...
for all practical purposes this engine is an economizer
the wild rocker doesn't even ride on the lobe until vtec is actuated
it is then held against the lobe from above and then all 3 rockers are held together by a fairly typical vtec mechanism pushing pins across each rocker locking them together
yeah i took it apart
if you guys want pictures...i've got plenty
The cx manifold does indeed fit, I'm about to post up some pictures in a success thread. I have though about the turbulence issue, and it has me a little worried or happy, who knows, but I think I will eventually go ahead and get a cx head and slap it on there before I do my full engine swap over to the vx.
you know what i really wish i had pictures of
a night i got drunk at a bar in hanover
coming out i stumbled into a huge crowd gathered to watch an hour long parade of naked freshmen make their way across campus
thats where i'm from
i actually used to sneak onto computers in their halls to surf the internet when i didn't have any for a while...lol
dartmouth is great !!!
here a pic from above of all the mechanisms for the intake side
the actuator up top holds the middle rocker against the wild lobe
here's the first rocker coming off
you can see the normal 16-valve vtec pin (closest)
and the lower solid pin activates the 3rd stage
here is the egr cover that has 4 mini-runners to each intake port
a good spot for injecting alternative fuels porting the main chamber
removes vacuum entirely from the engine under all conditions
the skyline turbo uses ceramic ball bearings and a ceramic exhaust blade
it should spool up fully well below my cruise speed of 2500rpm (about)
with an external wastegate and a very light spring inside
most of the exhaust gas is rerouted and boost pressure is maintained around zero psi
the brief explanation
an engine during vacuum (its entire operating range) has to work to pull air into the engine...it suffers from this work
using a turbo generally adds alot air and therefore fuel...
performance increases as does volumetric efficiency skyrockets
the engine no longer has to work to get air in...and its actually being forced...
unfortuneately to compensate all the air...fuel must be added...
you simply dont add positive pressure...but eliminate vacuum
zero psi is like when the car is off...there is still about 1bar of atmospheric pressure...
you aren't adding EXTRA air to compromise air/fuel ratios
you are just removing the pumping losses from the engine
less wear & tear...less work
ALOT of timing advance
an open playing field for altering target a/f ratios
no i'm not ready to remove my butterfly from the throttlebody just yet
though redesigning how our cars are controlled should be the goal
there are plenty of other factors besides the air charge that could be more effective in controlling engine speed
more specifically...fuel and spark...
you shut of spark and fuel and the car slows down
clearly the throttlebody at cruise is a hamper on efficiency
cue the pulse & glide efforts...though i could never drive like that...how annoying...lol...
there is a better way...and its likely split time fueling
where up arond cruise you could theoretically hold WOT but only be injecting fuel and sparking every other
its all theory of course...but yes...throttlebodies suck for efficiency at part throttle...
the engine is more efficient at wot
relative to normally aspirated car...yes..it would just above the wot column...
though the physical throttleplate is still only part open
I'm joining late as usual, but welcome! I'm stuck with a '98 Teg LS Automatic, 3-door, and I've been thinking D-Series for a while now. So, are you in school in Cleveland (I'm from Akron originally). I found your GSR in the Garage last week and was impressed. BTW, are you studying Physics?
i graduated HS in '93 and went to college in boston for electrical engineering for 2 semesters...
i left college because i thought i couldn't afford it...
worse mistake i made (i later found out my father did the same thing...doh)
i maintained a 3.4 gpa ...
i barely started my 3rd semester but had all my books purchased for the entire year...
i continued my education at home...and consider myself to have an associates degree...lol...
i'd love to go back to school !!!
definately do the d-series swap...
though maybe you might want to wait and see that i can at least better 40mpg with one...
i'm absolutely sure i can...but two non-ideal setups so far have been limited at 35mpg...
weight reduction will be the key
i'm trying to decide where i will live for next winter...
and that will ultimately decide if i remove the abs brakes or not
thats like 70lbs !!!
but i wouldn't remove them if i move down south...