Changed oil to 0W20 - Page 2 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 06-23-2010, 08:30 AM   #11
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i don't trust manufacturers to protect my best interest...http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/5w20oil.htm

i've heard this before from a master mechanic/consumer advocate. to be sure, mild climates may be fine. that said, why would you go 0w20 when 0w30 is available, and it's a better lube?

btw, that site endorses Amsoil, but since Amsoil sells a 0w20, i'd think the bias to be non-existent.
I agree here. Amsoil is another beast of a topic. Their oils are supposed to go longer. I don't think you'd have as much of a problem with wear if you use Amsoil because it will probably be the "least" affected by thermal breakdown than other synthetics. If your car calls for 5w30 or 10w30, going to 5w20 or 0w20 because newer cars can use them most efficiently is really pointless in any hot environment.
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:54 PM   #12
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that said, why would you go 0w20 when 0w30 is available, and it's a better lube?
At start up, the 0w20 is thinner than the 0w30, which means it will be easier for the oil pump to move, and thus reach the moving parts quicker. It also means less energy is needed then to move the oil. It might not be a big enough effect to show up in recorded fuel economy, but it does happen. With the viscosity of the oils being close at running temp, it's the cold temp viscosity that gives these fuel advantage the edge. The colder the climate, the greater the difference in viscosity, and thus the greater these advantages become.

What makes a better lube? Viscosity? My original post referenced Mobil 1 specs. The 0w20 and 0w30 are close at operating temp. That won't hold true for all brands. I've heard the Castrol 0w30 is close to a 40 weight oil. Is it the additive package? If different oils meet the same specifications, any differences likely don't make a difference. For a real extended oil change interval, you're going to have to do UOA's to find out which brand, and viscosity will work for your application.
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:10 PM   #13
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Since I've never had a vehicle suffer a failure that could have been prevented by different oil products/habits, have never known anyone who has, and asked a million times on forums but received only two third-hand stories, it is my determination that manufacturers' recommendations are good enough.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...ettlement.html

you've heard of it now. and sometimes those recommendations are not enough. toyota paid up, so it must be legit...or illegit, depending on what end of the car you're on(maker or owner).
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:15 PM   #14
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What makes a better lube? Viscosity? My original post referenced Mobil 1 specs. The 0w20 and 0w30 are close at operating temp. That won't hold true for all brands.
can't find my source, but here locally we had some issues w/ ford vehicles that were having lube(wear) issues. the recommended 20 weight oil was decided to be the culprit. i'm w/ ya tho, different brands have different characteristics.

again, to be sure, florida's hot climate could be a factor as well. if a manufacturer uses 20 weight to make CAFE standards...well that would raise a red flag for me.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtieguy View Post
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...ettlement.html

you've heard of it now. and sometimes those recommendations are not enough. toyota paid up, so it must be legit...or illegit, depending on what end of the car you're on(maker or owner).
Ok, maybe for Toyota drivers. The rest of us who don't buy into the Toyota myth can enjoy decent cars, I guess. Just kidding, folks.

Seriously, though...that's either an engineering/manufacturing failure (that any manufacturer could make) or the owners didn't follow the manufacturer's recommendation. I'm not going to go to excess efforts on the off-chance my manufacturer failed.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:17 PM   #16
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HC, to defend toyota, i've seen compelling evidence of sludge issues involving other manufacturers. i can side w/ ya tho. i'm in the market for a 2nd lawn mower(long story), and cannot justify buying a honda or some other overpriced brand.

i've never had a briggs motor fail me, just carbs. so, that's what i will be buying yet again. replacing/rebuilding carbs every several years(worst case) still puts me way ahead in $$$.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:28 PM   #17
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To be honest, small engines is where I would pay more for a Honda. My aging Honda 9hp is easier to pull than even a 3hp Briggs and always starts on the first pull, unlike every other small engine I've ever used. I'm truly impressed.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:38 PM   #18
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well, i can't afford a honda. in fact, i was considering buying a used briggs. have you priced hondas recently?
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:24 PM   #19
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well, i can't afford a honda. in fact, i was considering buying a used briggs. have you priced hondas recently?
That's funny. My pops is looking to sell an older Briggs that he doesn't need anymore. He went to Jared...lol; actually,he bought one off local Craig's list to someone that moved into an apartment and needed to make a quick buck.

EDIT: Just realized that you weren't talking about riding lawn mowers.
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:59 AM   #20
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sorry, i didn't clarify that. yes, both yards that i will be mowing warrant push mowers(small lots). i don't even want self propelled-that's just one more mechanism that will eventually fail!
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