Changed oil to 0W20 - Page 4 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 07-11-2010, 11:41 PM   #31
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06 4.7 Tundra replaced a 98 Dakota 3.9.
623,000 miles on original engine and transmission, using Amsoil by-pass filters and lubrication.
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:48 AM   #32
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Very first result (indication)

It might be coincidence, but I never ever had the dashboardreadings as good as after changing to 0W20. Shows now 4,8 l/100 km (49mpg). All previous dashreadings (allmost year time!) were in between 5,4 (43,56 mpg) and 5,7 l/100 km (41,27mpg). Still have to empty the tank to calculate, only 300 km driven. You see real last 3 months left hand side (Civic i-DSI).
But I realize it's impossible this gain's only because of the oil. Other 2 important factors: it's holiday = very smooth traffic and very high temperatures. Last year I bough the car just after high temps and just after holidays. It's a pitty I can not compare this exact period. It's also a pitty I don't know what oil was in it. But I start te believe it must have been a rather cheap 10W40.
Long term will show it. But first indications are positive.
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:38 AM   #33
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

Hi all,
I emptied my first complete tankfill with 0W20 oil in the sump. The result is impressive, allthough I'm realistic, and as already said: I know it's not only the oil and I know mpg will go down again a bit. But anyhow: I know for sure this result would be impossible without the 0W20.
My personal best since I own this car (september last year): over 560 miles with a tankfill and more than 45 mpg.
Have a look at the gaslog...
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:38 PM   #34
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

That's really cool. I finally switched the little VX over to 0w30. I'm dealing with other mechanic issues(02 sensor) that are impacting FE that can't be overlooked. Though, its a high mileage engine(240k+), etc. so my gains may not be as readily evident as yours but all things being equal it truly should help the mileage.

I can't wait until I can get this sensor replaced over the weekend. My car keeps keeps driving weird in the lean burn portion of the RPM range(1500-2200) because until the code is actually thrown it keeps trying to get readings for a dead sensor and that's where I generally will drive the car most of the time. So, perhaps my numbers will be a bit skewed. My first 200 miles since the change seems to be about equal so far. In my application, I'd imagine FE gains would be seen after the synthetic does the most cleaning it can. I'm not doing long OCI yet until its had several standard 3k mile changes with a full synthetic, all the while observing any increase in oil loss. I'm also going to run a half quart of Amsoil engine flush before I drop the plug at the end of this first interval using 0w30.

Way to go 0w syn!
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:58 PM   #35
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

When upgrading to synthetic from any conventional oil, it is a good idea to follow the example of the prior post and use engine flush.
Even synthetics leave some varnish and sludge and if there is a lot the result is not unlike your dad having a blood clot.
Better to be sure the engine is clean.

Synthetic oil may not cause an improvement in mileage, especially if the viscosity is the same.
20-W30 will be exactly as 0-W30 except when starting and the weather is really cold.

What you will see is a dramatic reduction in wear-metals, meaning the engine will last longer,
but not unless you do before and after the oil change oil analysis.
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I use and talk about, but don't sell Amsoil.
Who is shatto?
06 4.7 Tundra replaced a 98 Dakota 3.9.
623,000 miles on original engine and transmission, using Amsoil by-pass filters and lubrication.
+Everybody knows something you don't know.
+Artists prove truth can be in forms you don't understand.

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Retired Pro-Hunter featured in; 'African Hunter', by James R. Mellon III. and listed in; Rowland Ward's Records of Big Game.
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:10 PM   #36
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

I think gradual on an older vehicle is best, but just being extra cautious. The last thing you want to have happen is get the oil screen clogged and the oil light come on. If that happens, you'll have to drop the oil pan.
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:37 AM   #37
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

Quote:
Originally Posted by shatto View Post
What you will see is a dramatic reduction in wear-metals, meaning the engine will last longer,
but not unless you do before and after the oil change oil analysis.
Is lackluster oil protection causing people to need new engines? Do cars go to the junkyard or engines get replaced because too much metal wore off into the oil?

In my observation and repeated attempts at data collection, no.
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:49 AM   #38
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

Unless its a car that is prone to sludge, I'd imagine 'engine death' is a combination of many things that can either prolong or shorten the life of your engine either in one instance or over time. It could potentially fall under certain categories like driving habits/styles, failures at maintenance, just plain mechanical/electrical failures. etc.
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:58 AM   #39
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

I'll rephrase that more like the usual question I ask:
Are you aware of any examples of failures that could have been prevented by changing oil more often or using a better oil?

How many engine deaths are you aware of that happen in parts protected by oil?

It is my observation that almost all cars go to the junkyard having never suffered any failures in parts protected by oil. Other parts of the engine fail such as the head gasket or fuel system; or the transmission fails; or the car is just not worth enough to make exhaust or brake repairs.

I don't know anyone who has owned a car that has suffered a failure that could have been helped by different oil choices/habits, and repeated attempts at collecting data on forums provides almost nothing except extreme cases (oil ran quarts low and was never topped off or changed; oil wasn't changed for 30,000 miles; etc).
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Old 08-27-2010, 09:01 AM   #40
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Re: Changed oil to 0W20

Quote:
Originally Posted by shatto View Post
...Synthetic oil may not cause an improvement in mileage, especially if the viscosity is the same.
20-W30 will be exactly as 0-W30 except when starting and the weather is really cold...
This is not true.
The 20W30 will be thicker all the way up till they both reach normal operating temp. And as this takes in winter 30 minutes and in summer 20 minutes you will definitely see an improvement in mileage. Especially in my case where it's 30 minutes one way to work.
And in my case it's possible I'm comming from 10W40 or 5W30 (I don't know what was in). And that makes a noticable difference.
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