So I am gathering things together to take with mme to Chicago when I pick up the VX.
1. Supermid and splice connectors
2. Digital Volt Meter
3. Haynes Manual
I have located the proper wires to install the MID, A1 and B10, just like on the Del Sol. I will take power from the cigarette lighter unless someone can tell me where to get 12V and ground on the ECM.
I also want to monitor the O2 voltage with the DVM. From what I can tell from the Haynes schematic, the white wire on the O2 sensor is what I want to measure voltage to ground. It looks like the white wire ends up at D3 which is a Blue-yellow wire called "Label". Can someone confirm this? I expected it to be called O2 or something. Also, where would be the best ground near the ECM?
While observing the O2 output what would be an indication of being in lean burn mode? Well according to Dax's OBD training manual, a rich condition would yield a negative voltage, as much as -1.3V in very rich condition. A lean condition caused by disconnecting one injector would be positive 0.6V. So positive values approximating 0.6V would be a good indicator of a properly functioning lean burn condition.
Does anyone disagree? Am I missing something here?
I will be using the calculator to dial in the distance parameter.
EDIT: I see now from the OBD manuals that the positive lead should go to the Pump Cell Control (D14) and the negative lead to the Reference voltage (D16).
Guess who bought a new 5wire O2 sensor today! $325. Cha Ching! Installation was easy and the CEL went bye bye. The DVM showed the expected output with the new one. The gas smell went away.
The whole bottom of the muffler was gone and the axle pipe was about to fall off. So I took it to Mieneke, $215. Cha Ching!
The tires are dry rotted and the CV joints make quite a clattering sound while turning under power. I guess I will take her out of gear while cornering. The front rotors are warped and the rear brakes clatter in reverse. Hopefully I will make it home in one piece. At least the clutch is good.
I tried CODfishing once but the engine didnt restart. A few times I had to crank the car for quite awhile to get it to start. Is this the fuel pump relay issue that Bunger was speaking of?
I filled that tank. The gauge showed 1/2 tank. The pump stopped at 6 gallons but I proceeded to fill it to 10.8 gallons before it reached the top of the tube. Not bad for a 10.6 gallon tank that showed half full.
Oh yea, and I installed a ceiling fan for my dad.
MID is up and running, fuel parameter is set to 15000 for the 190cc injectors, scaled from 240cc value of 11069. DVM is monitoring O2 signal. I'm off at 5AM for the drive back. Wish me luck.
Spent so far:
$1800 for car
$110 for plane ticket
$325 for O2 sensor
$215 for muffler
Total $2450. I figure another $250 for Axles and brakes so $2700 estimated. That leaves another $1800 to spend on body work.
Damn, you got wanked on the o2 sensor, if you'd posted I woulda told you to get some cheap bosch/vw one and it'd for for a while and then get the oem one from somewhere/ebay for 100 bucks, but time is money, I spose,
Anyway, good luck with the drive home, don't forget to sleep beforehand.
Edit:just saw you already replaced muffler already.
Dan, Just buy a universal muffler (i got a 25 dollar "turbo" @ autozone)
cut the pipe just down stream of the 1st hanger around the passenger side wheel, and measure the distance to that pipe so you can add on segments to reach it. Autozone has all the sizes you will need, and you will have to use an adaptor to fit onto the pipe since the new tubing will likely be larger. You will need to unbolt the muffler from the point in front of the passenger rear wheel, to cut it, but make sure you leave the hanger intact, and enough room downstream of it to mount your new pipe. I left about 5 inches. The turbo required 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 inch pipe, and then i adapted down to 1 5/8 i think. c-clamps at every fitting. You will need two right angles, one coming out of the muffler, and one bending to reach the adaptor, or extension tube that will get the adaptor to fit on the existing pipe that you have cut. Just take off your muffler in and eyeball what you need, with your new muffler in hand, to retain the same bends and distances. You will also need to buy an exhaust hanger to replace the one downstream of the muffler. You will need to cut some of the pipes, prolly, i just used a hacksaw in the autozone parking lot. It took about 45 minutes, but it only cost $60 as opposed to $115, and it is has free flow internal design as opposed to the stock ones that feel like they are choking the motor. I drove for a week after i bought my car, without the muffler because it too was rotten. It seemed to drive differently, but apparently you get too much fast hot air blowing past your valves, and you'll also get a ticket prolly. The turbo cuts down the back pressure a lot, but not too much. Sorry no pics. starting at muffler: right angle with hanger, muffler, straight piece, right angle, straight tube, adaptor.