DIY Honda Civic 5-Speed Conversion - Page 4 - Fuelly Forums

Android Users - Coming Soon! - Migrating from aCar 4.8 to 5.0

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-17-2006, 06:37 PM   #31
*shrug*
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
I can't wait to see the wiring, and I hope you get a better FE improvement than I am,
__________________

SVOboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 07:40 AM   #32
Moderator
 
GasSavers_DaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,209
Country: United States
Updated the post on page 1. I'm going to have to break it into two posts, and the latter part will go here.


I went ahead and installed my shift boot on my center console. The center console for the auto WILL WORK for the manual conversion. On the underside there is a place to mount the shift boot - it takes two phillips screws (like the ones that hold on your dash parts).


In my quest for better FE, I figured I'd better try to stop my oil consumption (about 1 qt per gas tank). This is the engine going on the engine stand so I can replace seals and gaskets.


Engine on the stand. Here I'm removing the crank pulley. The silver bar is on the crank pulley bolt and the black bar is holding the crank pulley still. This black tool is an alternative (more expensive yet easier) to using the 2x4 method I outlined and that Matt used HERE.


This is the rear plate and the rear main seal. The engine is inverted in this picture with the oil pan removed. To pull the rear plate and the oil pump, you've got to take off the oil pan. I recommend replacing the rear main seal every time the flywheel is off because it's cheap, easy, and peace of mind. I unbolted the four 10mm bolts, wiggled the plate off the locating dowels, pressed out the old seal, drove in a new one, cleaned the mating surfaces on the plate and the block, applied fresh Hondabond, and torqued the plate back down. Make sure the seal is fully seated, or the flywheel can chew up the new seal. To see if it's fully seated, look at the back side of the plate...it will be obvious if it isn't.


Inverted engine, oil pan off. I've removed the timing belt so I can remove the oil pump to replace the crank seal. Five 10mm bolts hold the pump on. Seal replacement is exactly like that in the step above.


Back at the shifter on the 10-pin plug, find these two wires (YEL and GRN/BLK). These wires will turn on the reverse lights when connected. If you want to do it down and dirty, just run wires directly from these to the reverse light switch on the manual transmission. I, being a hideous neat freak when it comes to wiring, will show you how to do most of the wiring inside the engine harness using existing wires.


On the engine wiring harness, find the place where the auto tranny lockup solenoid plug is - it should be a YEL wire. Solder a lead onto this wire for the reverse light switch. I have lots of wiring harnesses laying around, so I just chopped the plugs off a junk harness.


I'll have to explain this one later when I have my notes.


What a freaking mess! You can see my engine harness on the left, the junk harness on the right, lots of old electrical tape and my meter in the foreground for testing continuity. I like to use zip-ties to hold the harness together when I have the loom off.


Here you can see where I have run the second lead for the reverse lights through the harness. Again...once I have my notes, I can explain this better.


Go ahead and remove the auto ECU.


Run a wire from the YEL wire on the 10-pin plug at the shifter to...


...the YEL wire on the white ECU plug (I call it pin A8). It's four over on the bottom when viewing this plug from the wire side. If you have a HELM, it should be the pin that controls the auto tranny lockup solenoid.

Once I have my notes I can tell you how to finish the wiring.
__________________

GasSavers_DaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 07:43 AM   #33
Driving on E
 
Matt Timion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaX
d
e
Matt Timion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 07:56 AM   #34
*shrug*
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
Eff
SVOboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 07:57 AM   #35
Moderator
 
GasSavers_DaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,209
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Timion
e
Haha, you move too fast. I was just holding a place so that I could chop up my posts.
GasSavers_DaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 08:34 AM   #36
Registered Member
 
LincolnW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 108
Country: United States
Location: Portland, OR
Wow. I never knew that an auto-manual conversion required this much wiring work...

My buddy did one on his Civic and he said it was easy.

Looks like you have a handle on it though. I'm sure your engine is going to appreciate the new seals. Did you do a compression or leakdown test by any chance? Do you know where all that oil has been going?
LincolnW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 08:51 AM   #37
*shrug*
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
I can't wait for the wiring to be up, woohoo!
SVOboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 03:30 PM   #38
Moderator
 
GasSavers_DaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,209
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90CivicStandard
Wow. I never knew that an auto-manual conversion required this much wiring work...

My buddy did one on his Civic and he said it was easy.

Looks like you have a handle on it though. I'm sure your engine is going to appreciate the new seals. Did you do a compression or leakdown test by any chance? Do you know where all that oil has been going?
It is easy, I'm just making it WAY more work than it should be, plus I'm going into extreme detail.

I haven't done a leakdown test on this engine, but I have done a compression test when I first installed it. I can't remember what the compression numbers were, but they were all within 10% of each other. It doesn't smoke, unless you rev it up REALLY high, which I don't do. The motor has about 175K by my estimates, so I'm sure the rings are getting tired, but I'm not burning THAT much oil. I'm pretty sure it's all running out of the crank seal or the oil pan gasket. There is ALWAYS residue on the bottom of the oil pan, AND there's always a fresh line of oil running down the front of the oil pan behind the crank pulley. Also look how filthy my oil pump is in that picture above...it's got to be the crank seal or oil pan gasket in that area.
GasSavers_DaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2006, 09:07 PM   #39
*shrug*
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
Are the vss cables the same? I'm about to sell mine so I'm just checking.
SVOboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2006, 05:26 AM   #40
Moderator
 
GasSavers_DaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,209
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Are the vss cables the same? I'm about to sell mine so I'm just checking.
Yep, they are.
__________________

GasSavers_DaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Jetta Hybrid bates General Fuel Topics 13 10-17-2013 06:15 AM
Fuelly Android App - eehokie Fuelly Web Support and Community News 2 07-14-2010 09:59 PM
initial fill up knhobson Fuelly Web Support and Community News 5 02-02-2010 05:13 AM
new link for Mobile after submit Pontiac Fuelly Web Support and Community News 1 02-07-2009 05:48 AM
Support for motorbikes wrighth1 Fuelly Web Support and Community News 9 08-18-2008 07:11 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.