turbocharging 2000 civic lx for FE? - Page 2 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 07-11-2009, 04:25 AM   #11
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On manual vs. auto: Manuals only produce a couple MPG difference for EPA estimates, but for hypermilers they make a huge difference. They allow you to control your shifting separate from your throttle; and they allow you to EOC (Engine Off Coast).

However, I think BEEF was suggesting that you change your high gear to a taller high gear, not that you change your transmission type.
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:56 AM   #12
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I always get the wording messed up so I tend to not word it right.

I did mean one with a taller 5th gear (higher or lower, I don't know) but I was thinking of the CRX HF trans. I think they are taller than normal ones.

there was a guy that took a firefly (canadian geo metro) and swapped in the trans from a 4 cyl into his 3 cyl. the 3cyl had a shorter running gear because of the lower power. he actually lost city mpg but gained highway mpg. overall he gained 5% I think.

metrompg he is a member here though I haven't seen him in a while
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Old 07-11-2009, 06:27 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by BEEF View Post
I always get the wording messed up so I tend to not word it right.

I did mean one with a taller 5th gear (higher or lower, I don't know) but I was thinking of the CRX HF trans. I think they are taller than normal ones.
Yes- the CRX hf trans is geared like the civic VX trans - I put a crx hf trans in my civic- I run 2200 rpms at 70 mph in 5th gear.
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Old 07-12-2009, 12:26 PM   #14
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hrrmmm.. is the vx a d15 or d16? i wonder if itll bolt up to a d16, anybody know?
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:45 PM   #15
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the VX motor is the d15z1 but not sure about the trans. the compatibility of one with another would be hard for me to say.

there are hard core honda guys on here and hopefully, they will pop in and say one way or the other.
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:51 AM   #16
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thats exactly what i am needing. in your opinion would a person use more gas at 1/4 throttle with small amounts of boost (5-8psi) and slight increase in fuel pressure, or 3/4 throttle and the trans kicking down 2 gears, rpms going up 2krpms to even accelerate 5mph? i might be purchasing and installing a wideband o2 sensor and gauge and tuning by "ear".
PROBLEM.

You won't make boost at 1/4 throttle. Especially w/ a .48 A/R turbine and that tiny engine. You'd need a SAAB (KKK) turbo, or Audi unit and you still won't make boost unless you put that engine under enough load.... which will require more than 1/4 throttle.

Ditch this idea.

Also noteworthy... you don't tune by "ear" if you have a WBo2 and gauge... you watch the gauge and adjust fuel accordingly. LC1's will run you anywhere from $180 used to $300 new. Worth it?

Then we get to the tranny. Best bang for your buck w/ this car is to swap out the auto trans for a manual and just learn to drive it differently.... seriously. Abandon all other ideas.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:01 PM   #17
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PROBLEM.

You won't make boost at 1/4 throttle. Especially w/ a .48 A/R turbine and that tiny engine. You'd need a SAAB (KKK) turbo, or Audi unit and you still won't make boost unless you put that engine under enough load.... which will require more than 1/4 throttle.

Ditch this idea.

Also noteworthy... you don't tune by "ear" if you have a WBo2 and gauge... you watch the gauge and adjust fuel accordingly. LC1's will run you anywhere from $180 used to $300 new. Worth it?

Then we get to the tranny. Best bang for your buck w/ this car is to swap out the auto trans for a manual and just learn to drive it differently.... seriously. Abandon all other ideas.
yeah, i know tuning with a wbo2 isnt by ear, thats why i typed "ear", i dont consider tuning one system really tuning.. it was more of a joke.. i did figure out how to adjust ignition timing though (painful 2 hours of wading through hondatech junk).. i advanced timing max amount allowed by the dist housing and drove it full throttle and got a little valve rattle at 4600rpm and over, but acceleration is vastly improved at hiway cruising speeds. i know what valve rattle really is, so to keep from detonating (and to test the butt dyno) i retarded the timing all the way and retested, definately no power there, especially from stop/low speeds. i re advanced the timing and backed it off a couple degrees and retested: no rattle/ knock/ pre ignition, and crisp acceleration to redline! i might still toy with a turbo because im a fabricator and cant leave anything alone, but if mileage goes down morethan a couple mpg, the snail gets the axe! thanks for all help, opinions, and constructive criticism!!
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:52 PM   #18
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Well dragging this back from the dead.. lol.. I didnt get to the turbo because I was too busy daily driving it 500 miles a week but 3the spun rod bearings forced me to tear into it. Long story short, the oil pump pressure relief valve was hung open causing starvation, spun bearings, bent rods, and severly scuffed pistons. This time around it got h-beam rods, floating pin pistons, .5mm overbore, .006" deck, and .012 off the head. I found a dirty cheap log manifold, t25 turbo, cheap air to air intercooler, etc. Next up will be an hx transaxle swap..
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:31 AM   #19
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You do know that swapping that car from auto to manual does require you to cut out some parts of the floor board underneath the car. As the shifter linkage will not be able to go to the trans their is a hump of metal something in the way. Once you go manual with this car i hope you don't plan on going back. Also have been messing with Honda's for a while now and just going for mpg. I don't think your parts list is their for mpg and you need a 5 wire o2 and a good computer tuning system those are parts in the correct direction.
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