NoveResource, on the tire pressure issue, you need to examine real data from experiments and long-term usage. You'll find that most of your concerns are entirely non-issues, and some are better instead of worse. I can provide that data from >400,000 miles experience with increased inflation pressure (usually to the sidewall-stamped limit). I started using increased pressure to alleviate many of the problems you fear come with increased pressure, back when I took pride in my ability to waste more gas than anyone else (of course, gas was under a dollar and I didn't have any bills). I used/use increased pressure on a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix weighing 2800 pounds on 205/55R16 tires, a dumptruck, a Ford Econoline 250, a 4400 pound GMC full size pickup, a 26 foot travel trailer, a 3000 pound 2008 VW Rabbit, a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo, and nearly everything else I've driven since ~1999 or so.
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Originally Posted by NovaResource
With 235-wide tires, that cost is uneven tire wear (more in the center, less on the edges) and an unsafe condition.
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245/75-16 tires on my pickup. The first set was rated for 44psi and that's the pressure I ran. They wore evenly and I replaced them at 50,000 miles.
The second set were rated for 80psi. They were used tires that were sitting on another truck in the yard, which had been abandoned a few year prior. I ran the front at 80 and rear at 72. More than 72 in the rear and it gets squirrely in the rain or on sandy pavement. I got 50,000 miles out of those tires too.
All tires that followed were rated for 80psi too. I'm at 180,000 miles with perfectly even wear on my latest set.
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It causes smaller tire contact patches that can be dangerous in the rain and cause longer stopping distances.
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The amount of pressure required for that in vehicles larger or heavier than a Civic is usually far more than the tires are rated for. Autocross racers and police cars run pressures from 60psi to 100psi for better handling (and in the case of police cars, pothole resistance which I'll describe next). For references on that data, look at quoted material in the first post in this thread:
http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=7712
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They are also more prone to blowout from road debris and pot holes (lots of them in PA roads).
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No. Road debris/pot hole damage comes from the sidewall getting pinched ("snakebite") against the rim. Increased pressure makes it more difficult to flatten it against the rim and cut the sidewall. In 100,000 miles prior to my increased-inflation habits, I had lots of blowouts from pot holes and curbs that I disrespected. In the 400,000 miles since, I've had
one, from a very tall, very sharp-edged NYC curb that I went far too fast over (I thought it wasn't so tall/sharp).
Puncture damage works differently (obviously) but in my extensive real-world experience I haven't measured an increase or decrease -- though a roadside plug repair can be done on an extra-inflated tire without reinflating and still be safe to drive to get properly patched and plugged, so it's convenient if you happen to notice the nail.
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Originally Posted by NovaResource
Let's just say, I'm not willing to do modification to the aesthetics of the car for fuel economy. Yes, I know smaller and lighter wheels would help mileage but I not willing to go that far (yet, or at least with the Tucson).
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It's possible to do aero mods without adversely affecting aesthetic value, and easy to do if you're willing to tolerate minimal aesthetic changes. My upper grille block is completely invisible behind the grille face. My lower grille block would look perfect if I had patience and the ability to make things look nice, but I'm entirely incapable of ever making anything look nice so it looks ok from far away (say, a roadside cop) but ugly up close. Then there's roof rack removal, and underbody stuff -- belly pans, enclosure of rear bumper areas, skid plates, etc.
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