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Old 01-19-2007, 05:56 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
Ok. I have the digital A/F gauge from jaycars.com.au. *After* I received the gauge I realized it preferred a wide band 02 sensor. My Saturn only uses a narrow band. Later on the gauge designer responded to my e-mail and told me that it will still work for me. In the meantime I spent a week trying to figure out the difference between 02 sensors and whether or not it would work on my Saturn. I want to splice into the same sensor (not a separate standalone 02 sensor) that my car's computer uses because I want to see what the car's computer sees when it comes to the 02 reading.
What version display did you get? The 5301? I can help you set it up for the narrow band O2 sensor in your car. I just finished assembling mine today to hook up to my VX O2 sensor to tell when I'm in Lean burn.

Off hand I can tell you that if you have the Jaycar 5300/5301 and want to use it with a narrow band O2 just assemble it per the Jaycar instructions and ignore the changes indicated by Tech Edge.

If you feel your electronics prowess isn't up to the task, you could mail me the unit and I can assemble and calibrate it for you.
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Old 01-19-2007, 08:02 PM   #32
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TomO -

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What version display did you get? The 5301? I can help you set it up for the narrow band O2 sensor in your car. I just finished assembling mine today to hook up to my VX O2 sensor to tell when I'm in Lean burn.

Off hand I can tell you that if you have the Jaycar 5300/5301 and want to use it with a narrow band O2 just assemble it per the Jaycar instructions and ignore the changes indicated by Tech Edge.

If you feel your electronics prowess isn't up to the task, you could mail me the unit and I can assemble and calibrate it for you.
Thank you! I know how to solder, but the calibration part looks pretty depressing, so I would appreciate help on that. I thought the VX 02 sensor was the 5-wire job. Is the 5-wire a narrow-band too? Does the VX have two 02 sensors like my Saturn? I would be slicing into the unheated (2-wire?) 02 sensor in my exhaust manifold, not the heated (4-wire?) 02 sensor that is located after the catalytic converter.

I have the 5300 :

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Max=&SUBCATID=

CarloSW2
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Old 01-19-2007, 08:14 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
TomO -



Thank you! I know how to solder, but the calibration part looks pretty depressing, so I would appreciate help on that. I thought the VX 02 sensor was the 5-wire job. Is the 5-wire a narrow-band too? Does the VX have two 02 sensors like my Saturn? I would be slicing into the unheated (2-wire?) 02 sensor in my exhaust manifold, not the heated (4-wire?) 02 sensor that is located after the catalytic converter.

I have the 5300 :

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Max=&SUBCATID=

CarloSW2
The O2 sensor in your Saturn's manifold is most likely a 1-wire model like it is in my '99 SL2. The 5-wire sensor that you mentioned is a wide-band sensor.
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:29 PM   #34
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Getting back to Kill Switches ;)

Test drive went well, didn't take long to get the hang of it. I covered a lot of ground with the engine off and didn't sit for more than 8 seconds with the engine running. killing during shifting didn't work so well, but I only tried when it was cold and it would die completely, needs work.

The injector resistor is HUGE (purple circle), I'm a little concerned about my little switch. But I have an alligator clip and can jury rig the leads back together if necessary A relay would provide more peace of mind, but cei la vie. I'll keep an eye on the mileage. Last tank sucked.




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Old 01-20-2007, 12:25 AM   #35
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The O2 sensor in your Saturn's manifold is most likely a 1-wire model like it is in my '99 SL2. The 5-wire sensor that you mentioned is a wide-band sensor.
You must be right. I recall that it does look like a 1-wire sensor. I was looking online and saw 1, 2, and 4 wire models for Saturn S-Series. Which 02 sensor is post-cat in your SL2?

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Old 01-24-2007, 02:05 PM   #36
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I have a question about the kill switch use:

In order to eliminate the "bump" start could you:
1 Kill the injectors
2 leave the engine engaged
3 open the throttle fully to reduce pumping losses/alt still charging (REGEN BRAKING?)
4 finishing coasting but still be in motion (rpm about 1500)
5 close the thottle while still rolling
6 start the injectors

The bump will be removed....saving a tiny bit of clutch material.

Bill
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Old 01-24-2007, 03:19 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
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You must be right. I recall that it does look like a 1-wire sensor. I was looking online and saw 1, 2, and 4 wire models for Saturn S-Series. Which 02 sensor is post-cat in your SL2?

CarloSW2
My post-cat sensor is a 4-wire.
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Old 01-24-2007, 03:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeUU View Post
I have a question about the kill switch use:

In order to eliminate the "bump" start could you:
1 Kill the injectors
2 leave the engine engaged
3 open the throttle fully to reduce pumping losses/alt still charging (REGEN BRAKING?)
4 finishing coasting but still be in motion (rpm about 1500)
5 close the thottle while still rolling
6 start the injectors

The bump will be removed....saving a tiny bit of clutch material.

Bill
By doing it this way(leaving engine engaged), you will significantly reduce your coasting time to the point where it may do little or no good for FE.
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondlarry View Post
By doing it this way(leaving engine engaged), you will significantly reduce your coasting time to the point where it may do little or no good for FE.
I think you're right. Even with the throttle open and spark plugs removed, the engine friction would be significant, and the benefit of the engine-off glide would be lost.

The proof of the pudding:

Stop on a grade. Kill the engine. Now, with the engine in gear, open the throttle fully. Does the car roll? Didn't think so!

I'd be interested to compare coast length of both methods just to see how different they are.
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:21 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by skewbe View Post
The injector resistor is HUGE (purple circle), I'm a little concerned about my little switch. But I have an alligator clip and can jury rig the leads back together if necessary A relay would provide more peace of mind, but cei la vie. I'll keep an eye on the mileage. Last tank sucked.
Nice work, skewbe. I thought I was looking at a picture of MY gear shift Except my switch is held on with a hose clamp. (I graduated from duct tape when it got really hot in the summer and the tape got all slippery & gooey.)

I should try the injector kill, because I'm conscious of the fact that sometimes the engine doesn't die a quick, quiet death when I press the button (it occasionally seems to spin an extra rev, half-heartedly, which could be due to the injector providing a last dribble of fuel.)
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